64 ford 2000 tractor alternator question

Folks Im still knuckle dragging my way through re-wiring my 1964 Ford 2000 gas tractor. I've got most of it done except for the alternator wiring. It's a 3 wire alternator and I've figured out the BAT wire and the and the T2 wire going to the BAT terminal on the solenoid. However in where/how do I wire in the T1 wire coming off alternator? Seen multiple different diagrams showing either a diode or light bulb in-line with T1 wire going to either the key switch or the solenoid? also seen having a resistor in the wire between coil and key switch? End goal is can anyone explain in dumb-dumb how to wire in a 3 wire alternator?
thanks
 
You have a light on the dash, run it to it and the other wire on the light to the ign switch coil side
Boss
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:56 09/10/16) You have a light on the dash, run it to it and the other wire on the light to the ign switch coil side
Boss
Brother that would be great except it's been a long time since this thing had a dash light?
 
buy an oil gauge illumination light with a mounting bracket and mount it by the ignition switch. When the power from the ignition switch is fed through it, it turns on the alternator. Just tiewrap the bulb socket to the wires near the ignition switch, and your done.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AUM0/2388/N0524.oap?ck=Search_N0524_-1_-1&pt=N0524&ppt=C0134
 
With a resistor there is a good chance you won't have run on after you switch if off. If you do do the light thing.
 
(quoted from post at 09:57:30 09/11/16) With a resistor there is a good chance you won't have run on after you switch if off. If you do do the light thing.
Resistor? Do I need to put a resistor in line with wire from the coil to key switch or are you talking about something else? As for the light having trouble locating one as no one keeps them "in stock" and the one made for the actual ford tractor dash is 40$-50$?
 
you are making this much mch more complicated than it needs to be.

the #2 terminal can loop directly ( 4" ) over to the charge stud.

the charge stud can travel to the battery post on the start relay.

the #1 can go to a trailer marker lamp.. they have 2 wires. 1 wire to #2, the other wire to the side of the key that powers
the coil.

get a REAL 12v coil like a napa IC14SB and forget about resistors, diodes or extra relays.

It really is THAT simple.
 
(quoted from post at 11:05:24 09/12/16) I have had good luck when going from 6v to 12 using a NAPA MPE icr37sb resister with the orginal coil
Ok got a new light (then found the old one buried in dash) and will be plugging it all up tomorrow hopefully. How do I know if I need a resistor between coil and key switch? The reason I asked about resistor in first place is a number of the wire diagrams I've seen show one (if needed)?
 
Buy a coil that is labeled "12V No External Resistor Required". You can hook that one directly to the IGN switch. If not, you will need a ballast resistor (Standard Ignition part number RU10 or equivalent.
 

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