600 hydraulic tubes

DaveO430 · Aug 30, 2016

Hey folks, was a member here once upon a time but got out of an old tractor for a time but now I'm back. Gave my 2N to my sister and my nephew's wife used it and locked up the engine somehow. Traded for a 600 a couple days ago, boy did I get screwed, my fault, water under the bridge. Didn't run when I got it but looked like it was fixable. Got it running fairly easy and the engine sounds good, trans has all the gears and the PTO works, tires are decent. On the the "major" problem, it is pumping the hydraulic fluid out of the sump and into the transmission case, indicating the pressure tube has a leak. Read a couple older threads on it and people were either sleeving the tube or replacing it. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=544876 for instance. Have there been any updates to this situation i.e. new fixes or is this still it? Is the tube from Walt's still the only one available?

JMOR · Aug 30, 2016

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1281207

DaveO430 · Aug 30, 2016

Thanks, I guess nothing has changed in the last few years.

DaveO430 · Aug 30, 2016

Good grief what a weird forum setup, posted a reply and it shows up above the one I was replying to. Strange I haven't found where it shows if I am logged in or not either. Guess it takes some getting used to. I am a moderator on another forum so not a newby to them.

JMOR · Aug 30, 2016

(quoted from post at 16:35:52 08/30/16) Good grief what a weird forum setup, posted a reply and it shows up above the one I was replying to. Strange I haven't found where it shows if I am logged in or not either. Guess it takes some getting used to. I am a moderator on another forum so not a newby to them.

ou must be using Classic view. Modern view is more like what you are likely accustomed to.

Dean · Aug 30, 2016

Sounds like your using Classic View (which I prefer).

Dean

DaveO430 · Aug 30, 2016

I guess so , haven't found the control panel yet.

DaveO430 · Aug 30, 2016

Well I pulled the tube, not hard at all. Took about an hour including making a tool. I tapped the tube 7/16 and made a puller plate with a hole in the center for the 7/16 bolt and 2 holes on opposite sides threaded for pressure bolts and used it to get it started, popped loose without too much pressure, then I used my portapower puller ram and pulled it the rest of the way out. Sure enough it has a hole in it about 2" from the back end about 1/8" wide and 1/4" long, no wonder it filled the trans in 2 or 3 minutes running. Now to decide whether to spend the ridiculous price for a new tube or sleeve this one.

Hobo,NC · Aug 30, 2016

NO way would I sleeve it... You have done the hard part find a tube are have a tube made.

DGinVT · Aug 30, 2016

Since you have pulled the tube, is it possible to braze or silver solder the hole?
You might try Roberts Farm and Tractor Parts in Ohio or MacFadden in Sharron Springs, New York.

M-MAN · Aug 31, 2016

Seems like I read somewhere that the tube from Walts has the steps turned properly now. If you have a lathe the dimensions are on this site and the tube is cheap from McMasters.

DaveO430 · Aug 31, 2016

Ain't nothing cheap from McMaster, especially if you include the freight, which they won't quote you until after you place the order.

DaveO430 · Aug 31, 2016

If I could still see how to weld I would attempt it.

DGinVT · Aug 31, 2016

If you have the tube out on the workbench, plug one end with a rag and put an air chuck in at the other end. You should then be able to feel where the air is coming out. Clean the area well along the crack and silver solder it. I did a similar one many years ago.

DaveO430 · Aug 31, 2016

Feel where it's coming out, heck I can look through the hole.

souNdguy · Aug 31, 2016

If your tube is intact other than one hole, and don't look like it's swiss cheese about to turn. I'd braze or silver slder and put it back in before I'd sleeve it. If I couldn't find a new one that is.

DaveO430 · Aug 31, 2016

Just the one hole and not a speck of rust on the tube anywhere, don't know what caused the hole, looks like a piece of it just popped out. I think I have the cure, I have a thin walled stainless steel sleeve about 2 1/2" long that fits snug in the tube, I cleaned the tube out real well and smeared JB weld on the sleeve and drove it in centered on the hole. I drove the tube back in and will wait until tomorrow for the JB weld to cure. The sleeve I used is a recall part for a V6 Honda, not available as a separate part, used to have several of them but when I went looking for one I only found the one. Glad I only needed one.

Hobo,NC · Aug 31, 2016

Cool, while on the Honda I have drilled out striped oil plugs and put a M14X1.25 spark plug insert in the hole for the repair. I have never had a problem its a fast buck

and better than NEW. ON MY OWN I could not stop it from leaking :twisted: I removed the insert and put Permatex lock weld on the treads (a epoxy like JB but better) No leak

Getting the tube out is the problem you have that down pat if it does not work out no problem find a tube.

I would like to know what was the recalled part.

DaveO430 · Sep 1, 2016

It's not exactly a recalled part, it is a tube that is installed in the EGR port that was supposed to prevent it from plugging up, didn't work. The reason I had some of them was the EGR valve that came with it for the recall was way cheaper than the one listed in the parts catalog so if a car needed a new EGR valve after it had already had the recall I had the tube left over.

DaveO430 · Sep 1, 2016

Well it works like a champ.

600 hydraulic tubes

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