3000 PTO Shaft

tfrank092

New User
I am in the process of rebuilding a '66 3000 and am currently working on the PTO shaft. I understand that the PTO bearing is supposed to be captive in the rear housing, but the one that I'm working on is not. I pulled the four bolts on the rear housing expecting to be able to pull the entire shaft out of the tractor only to find that the housing came out by itself (with the seal inside). Then I tried to pull the shaft out to replace the bearing, but it won't come out. It will move in and out about an inch and a half, but won't come free of the housing. I have a feeling that the snap ring that is supposed to hold the bearing to the housing is gone, and I hope the housing is saveable, but what could be keeping the shaft from coming free?

BTW, the PTO is in the engaged position. Thanks in advance!
 
You should mention if it is a single stick
or twin stick transmission as the pto shafts
are different. Though in this case the
problem is likely the same.
Pull the round inspection cover off of tbe
left side of the rear cenyer housing - by
the pto handle. Take a small bar and try to
pull the coupler off of the output shaft.
I had one that the pto shaft would not come
out. I had the transmission sold and
couldn't get it split from the rear end.
I finally pulled the lift cover off and cut
the pto shaft off to get it apart.
I put a pinch bar between the coupler and
transmission amd it popped right off.
What i found was the two shafts had rubbed
together and made burrs on the ends of both
shafts so they would not pull out of the
coupler. Then I filed the burrs off the
output shaft and it was fine.
Your missing snap ring makes me think your
pto shaft was pushed in and forced the snap
ring out. Then it burred the ends of the
shafts like mine. Probably caused by too
long of a drive shaft on a mower that pushed
the shaft in when the 3 point was raised.
The coupler popped off fairly easily once i
had the pto cut out and had the tranny
seperated from the rear end but I was
reluctant to pull too hard for fear of
breaking something.
 
First time I did mine I found the snap ring in the bottom of the case in pieces. If you're lucky it didn't break the groove out of the bearing housing. Udog is probably correct on the shaft. I never had that problem. I drilled a small hole from the outside of the housing into the snap ring groove so I could push the ring out of the groove, for next time.
 
Thanks a lot guys. I know this thing has been abused in the past due to the bent PTO clutch fork and shifter arm. Before I replaced those two it wouldn't even engage the PTO.

So, it sounds like I'm fighting the connection between the shaft and the coupler? Would a slide hammer on the end of the shaft be out of order? I've got an extra PTO quick coupler hanging around that I could attach to the end of a slide hammer...
 
Knowing what I know now, I would have gotten a little more agressive with it.
Like yes, fashion some kind of a slide hammer to pull on the pto shaft. At the time I was trying to not booger up anything in the transmission so was being gentle with things.
Post back with your findings. Issues like this are always interesting and all of us are continually learning here.
 
(quoted from post at 02:18:11 08/18/16) Knowing what I know now, I would have gotten a little more agressive with it.
Like yes, fashion some kind of a slide hammer to pull on the pto shaft. At the time I was trying to not booger up anything in the transmission so was being gentle with things.
Post back with your findings. Issues like this are always interesting and all of us are continually learning here.

On truck axles needing some help being removed , I have attached a 10' chain , left slack in it and whipped it , kind of works like a slide hammer . Might be able to install a drive shaft to have something to bolt / attach to .
 
I've got an extra PTO coupler that I can fasten to the end of the slide hammer and go to town on it. I went ahead and ordered a complete PTO assembly from YT to eliminate any other variables that may come up when trying to fix this thing, and I'll update y'all on how it comes out. Probably going to be next weekend before I get to it... Thanks for all the help!
 
Well, looks like I get to pull the top cover again and cut the shaft... I tried to use the slide hammer to get the PTO shaft out, but the collar is seized on the end of the shaft. Guess it's time to order a new collar and get the die grinder out.
By the way, why wouldn't they make the hole between the hydraulic sump and the diff sump big enough for the collar to slide through?? Just doesn't make sense...
Thanks again for all of the advise.
 

Just a thought but does your tractor have live pto with a two stage clutch.
On some earlier models without live pto the side cover with the pto lever had to be removed in order to put the pto shaft out
 
After 3 hours of Dremel work, I was able to get the old shaft out of the belly of the beast. I ended up having to remake the splines on the input end so it would slide back through the coupler and out of the back of the tractor... Lemme tell ya, that was no fun at all. Good news is, the PTO works flawlessly now... Bad news, the hydraulics are now inoperable. I pulled the primer plug on the bottom of the pump and there is nothing coming out. I'm wondering if I may have knocked something loose in the belly when I was messing with the PTO. After I fired it up, the 3 point went up once (very slowly) and that's all she wrote... Any thoughts?
 

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