Ford 1710-1720 no crank

RenegadeWV

New User
I have an old Ford 1710 or 1720, 3 cyl diesel, 2 wheel drive. I started having trouble about 10 months ago. Starter Solenoid went out. I got a new one and put on that only lasted a couple of weeks. I bought another and it lasted 3 months or better. I got another and it didn't work. It wouldn't even jump across the solenoid. I checked out the connections and everything seemed right. I've been trying to figure it out for a couple of months Then out of nowhere the 2 red lights on the dash quit lighting up on the dash when the key was turned on. I checked the four fuses in the fusebox and all ok. I drift the tractor downhill and it will start. Checking further I hooked jumper cables up from my car and the 2 red lights came on with the key turned on, but trying to start just gave me one click. I checked the battery with my voltmeter and it was only 4.6 volts so I bought a new battery and put it in. Voltmeter shows 12.75 volts on it, but I am getting nothing again, no 2 red lights, no click when I try to start it. I am running out of ideas and my wife is tired of me spending money with no results. Any ideas or cheap suggestions? :shock: :roll:
 
Those tractors have had problems with loosing the ground connection where the front axle support mounts to the engine block. Try using your jumper cable to make a connection from the battery negative to a good ground on the engine block. If that works the simplest fix is to get a longer ground cable to run back to the block instead of grounding on the front axle support.

Mark
 
Try using your jumper cable to make a connection from the battery negative to a good ground on the engine block. If that works the simplest fix is to get a longer ground cable to run back to the block instead of grounding on the front axle support.

Mark[/quote]

The ground wire on mine is attached to the battery tray. I tried the jumper cable and clamped it in quite a few different places. No luck. I used my voltmeter and checked from positive to fram in quite a few places and reading was always 12.75 volts. I noticed the 2 red lights on the dash are coming on but really dim. In the sunlight I couldn't even see them.
 
Checking voltage without a load will not give you accurate readings. You need to check voltage readings when you attempt to engage the starter to find out where you are loosing connection.

The ground wire on mine is attached to the battery tray.

The battery tray is mounted to the front axle support which is mounted to the engine block.


You could try using both jumper cables to go direct to the starter from the battery. Connect the ground to one of the starter mounting bolts and the positive to the solenoid positive post. Both the 1710 and 1720 use a fused link from the solenoid but if that was burnt your dash lights would not come on.

Mark
 
Will your head lights work? If they do, you could turn them on and then turn the key to the start position. If the head lights go out that would verify that you have a connection problem.

Mark
 
The wires on the lights were missing when I got the tractor. I have never done anything about them, cause I never need lights. I haven't tried jumping battery to starter yet. As soon as I get awake and moving, I will though. Thanx!
 
You could try using both jumper cables to go direct to the starter from the battery. Connect the ground to one of the starter mounting bolts and the positive to the solenoid positive post.

[b:f86e2bd890]This worked. Cranked right up. So does that mean I need the fusible link and is it the wire that is also connected to the positive side of the solenoid and has a plug in on the other end?[/b:f86e2bd890]

[b:f86e2bd890][size=18:f86e2bd890]Thank You, Thank You, Thank you![/size:f86e2bd890][/b:f86e2bd890]
 
The fused link is what supplies power to the switch from the solenoid. Yes it is connected to the positive side of the solenoid and you should be able to test that with your volt meter. I would now disconnect one of the jumper cables at a time to determine if you have a problem on the ground side or the positive side.

Mark
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:33 08/17/16) The fused link is what supplies power to the switch from the solenoid. Yes it is connected to the positive side of the solenoid and you should be able to test that with your volt meter. I would now disconnect one of the jumper cables at a time to determine if you have a problem on the ground side or the positive side.

Mark

[b:d025df5f6e]Thank You Again. All the best to you.[/b:d025df5f6e]
 

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