Ford Powermaster 961 oil Pressure?

Stanley75

New User
No oil is getting up to the oil gauge. Seems like engine is getting oil but nothing shows on the gauge and is dry as a bone at the gauge.

Any ideas on what may be wrong? I tried heating up the copper line but didn't make any difference. Thought maybe the line was plugged? Oil line is a bear to get to.

It was like this when I bought the tractor. All gauges were not working including the speedo meter. Got that working. Got the temp gauge replaced. Now the oil gauge is next to get working.
 

Yes it is a bear to get to but you can get at it with a small combination wrench. You may want to get the replacement tube kit from this site.
 
I had a similar problem on a new to me, bought "as is" 4000. Seller said he had no oil pressure. Paid junk price for it so wasn't too worried........I obviously hoped for the best......One overhaul later, I had oil pressure. Good luck.
 
Loosen the engine oil filter ,With the engine running should have a major oil leak. All engine oil has to go through the filter first Oil gauge is a dead end in the system.
 
(quoted from post at 06:58:45 06/25/16) Loosen the engine oil filter, With the engine running should have a major oil leak. All engine oil has to go through the filter first Oil gauge is a dead end in the system.

I have the oil gauge line disconnected at the gauge. I can only roll the engine over with the starter. Pulled the gas tank to replace the shut off valve. The tractor was running and the guy used it on an elevator.

I suspected the gauge was bad but it works fine just no oil to the gauge.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:18 06/24/16)
Yes it is a bear to get to but you can get at it with a small combination wrench. You may want to get the replacement tube kit from this site.

I can only get about 1/4 of a 5/16 wrench on the fitting at a severe angle. Merely rolls the brass fitting. I'm thinking about pulling the hydraulic pump. but it is in need of a good cleaning and that is what I will do when I get the thing put back together to run.

I'm going to sell the tractor when I get it running so I don't want to keep unfixing things to fix another thing. If you know what I mean. I tried compressed air on the gauge oil line, it is dead ended. I was thinking it should blow air back to the oil pump?
 
This what I'm dealing with. I can cut the tubing and put a 6 point socket on the fitting to get it off. But I still won't have solved anything unless the oil line is plugged?

Then I still need to get it back together. was hoping not to have to pull the hydraulic pump. Because I will be fixing 6 other things that domino from the hydraulic pump pull. Been working on old stuff too long to not realize that.



SDC13347%201024x768_zpsfqr8ty6k.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:56:47 06/25/16) This what I'm dealing with. I can cut the tubing and put a 6 point socket on the fitting to get it off. But I still won't have solved anything unless the oil line is plugged?

Then I still need to get it back together. was hoping not to have to pull the hydraulic pump. Because I will be fixing 6 other things that domino from the hydraulic pump pull. Been working on old stuff too long to not realize that.



SDC13347%201024x768_zpsfqr8ty6k.jpg

What do you mean by "rolls the brass fitting"? if the fitting is rolling, roll it off and perform the checks on the pump and line. As posted above I changed one awhile ago with the correct combination wrench.
 
(quoted from post at 16:06:09 06/25/16)
(quoted from post at 13:56:47 06/25/16) This what I'm dealing with. I can cut the tubing and put a 6 point socket on the fitting to get it off. But I still won't have solved anything unless the oil line is plugged?

Then I still need to get it back together. was hoping not to have to pull the hydraulic pump. Because I will be fixing 6 other things that domino from the hydraulic pump pull. Been working on old stuff too long to not realize that.



SDC13347%201024x768_zpsfqr8ty6k.jpg

What do you mean by "rolls the brass fitting"? if the fitting is rolling, roll it off and perform the checks on the pump and line. As posted above I changed one awhile ago with the correct combination wrench.


The brass fitting edges are rolling over. In other words the wrench is slipping on the fitting and deforming the fitting. I have multiple wrenches there is no room to get a straight grip on the fitting. The brass fitting is close to being in a recessed hole behind the hydraulic pump.

I don't want to deform the fitting too much That will give me more problems if I have to cut the line and use a 6 point socket to get the fitting off. Then it will be a challenge to get the fitting tight enough not to leak.

I tried some heat and that didn't help. If the fitting was turned a little more I could get more of the wrench on it. That was probably the case with the one you worked on.
 

I think what you're looking for is a weatherhead socket. Use Google images and you'll see what I mean. Good luck with your project
 
(quoted from post at 20:01:47 06/25/16)
I think what you're looking for is a weatherhead socket. Use Google images and you'll see what I mean. Good luck with your project
Now we are cooking with gas. Thanks I think that would do the trick. I may have to make one if I can't find one.
 
go buy you what they call is a line wrench. it has an opening that will allow you to wrap around the line. buy a metric one. they will fit tighter. Sometimes if the nut is damaged you will have to drive the wrench on there. if that doesn't work then get a small pair of vice grips. just have to make sure the wrench is really tight on there. hope this helps
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:26 06/26/16) go buy you what they call is a line wrench. it has an opening that will allow you to wrap around the line. buy a metric one. they will fit tighter. Sometimes if the nut is damaged you will have to drive the wrench on there. if that doesn't work then get a small pair of vice grips. just have to make sure the wrench is really tight on there. hope this helps

Yup, metric fits tighter on some, much looser on others.
 
(quoted from post at 08:42:41 06/26/16) R+R the hydraulic pump. 5 minute job.
There are no 5 minute jobs on old stuff. It is always another something to fix when you start robbing Peter to pay Paul.
 

I did get the fitting off. The line wasn't plugged as I was hoping it would be. Now need to figure out why there is no oil going to the gauge.
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:26 06/26/16) go buy you what they call is a line wrench. it has an opening that will allow you to wrap around the line. buy a metric one. they will fit tighter. Sometimes if the nut is damaged you will have to drive the wrench on there. if that doesn't work then get a small pair of vice grips. just have to make sure the wrench is really tight on there. hope this helps

I had no room for any kind of a wrench or vice grips. I ended up cutting the line and using a deep well 6 point socket. No other way to get it off. I have a fitting to extend it out now and will use a compression fitting to go into that.
 
I think your idea of cutting the line and using a six point is the quickest solution provided you can get the nipple out of the block and replace it with a longer one so you don't have to go through this again. You are still going to have to put the tube nut back on when you finish.

The only other alternative I see is to get a flare nut socket or make one with a six point deep socket and a dremel or disc grinder. Most of the flare nut sockets I have seen are a little too generous with the slot width. Time or money or both. I think sadistic minds come up with service headaches like this. Just use SST #344G674489 suffix Z. SST = special service tool. Only cost $75 but we are out or no more are being made or it will take 6 weeks to get. Not meant to be funny as it cost in many ways. I have been through type aggravation too many times.
 

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