Ford 2000 alternator conversion ?

Limbhangers · Jul 19, 2016

Ford 2000 8 speed diesel 1974 model. I keep chiming in on here every couple weeks as I get time to work on this project a little at a time. Tractor is not back in the typical shape I like to keep my equipment (everything working), but did do some cutting with it this past weekend. Did real well on tight woods roads with a 5 foot cutter some of my hunters left behind. I can now see why people like these little machines. I have never owned a small tractor like this but I am use to older equipment, so I didn't miss any of the bells and whistles.

Here's the question - Generator isn't charging and wiring is in pretty bad shape. I'd rather just fix while I'm ahead so I think I'm just going to re-wire with a new wiring harness. I'm looking at this conversion alternator on E-bay. I believe it is a one wire AC Delco:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201626487559?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'd rather have an alternator than generator, what am I missing here as far as hooking this up? Will this directly hook up and run through the stock voltage regulator, etc. It doesn't have much of a description but looks to be the same kit that others are selling.

Thanks,

Destroked 450 · Jul 19, 2016

That's the same kit I put on my 5000 earlier this year.
You remove the regulator and splice some of the wires together, pretty simple conversion.
The tach appears to be reading a little fast but I haven't had a chance to use my hand held on the pto to see if 540 pto is at 1800 engine rpm.

Limbhangers · Jul 19, 2016

Sounds good. I'll see what others have to say, but I'm prepared to give it a try. I don't see any sense in going back with a Generator and the stock regulator for the same money.

Any issues with mounting? Were you able to work something out with the brackets that came with it or did you have to fab some new ones, etc.

Thanks

souNdguy · Jul 19, 2016

lets clear up a few things.

1, lucas generator aren't all that bad.

2, lucas vregs are junk.

3, why would you want a new alternator and use your old junky vreg? makes no sense. if it was an alt like a 10 DN that needed an external reg, get a new one.. besibes.. your lucas not bein ghte same anyway.

4, add clearly states this is a 10SI thus no regulator needed.

5, it is VERY easy to motor and full field test your generator.

6, it's your money and time.. do what you want.

Limbhangers · Jul 19, 2016

Gotcha. Personally rather have the alternator, get rid of the external vreg and re-wire the whole tractor is the planned project. That's why I was asking and not purposely trying to ask dumb questions. Shouldn't be but if there were any problems getting rid of the stock vreg better to understand those while I got help. Just trying to make sure I understand all issues ahead of time. No cell service, no internet, 1.5-2 hour round trip back to town to get a part at the parts place and it isn't a box store. There is one full set of teeth around there though. Mine.

Destroked 450 · Jul 19, 2016

(quoted from post at 08:00:36 07/19/16)
Sounds good. I'll see what others have to say, but I'm prepared to give it a try. I don't see any sense in going back with a Generator and the stock regulator for the same money.

Any issues with mounting? Were you able to work something out with the brackets that came with it or did you have to fab some new ones, etc.

Thanks

The mounting brackets worked fine although the instructions weren't much, just had to figure it out. The alternator I got had the plug positioned at three oclock pointing toward the head so I turned it to six oclock which worked good for me. The stock fan belt had the alt jammed up against the head so I went with one a size longer for better adjustability, if you get the kit try your stock belt before you run out an buy one, it may work for you.

John

RodinNS · Jul 19, 2016

I think you're on the right track. I never found a Lucas gen that didn't make a good door stop....
Depending on how much time you want to spend you can either just make a couple basic nips in the wire at the reg to rehook the indicator
light or you could go into a full on rewire... I'm just finishing my 5000 today... done from stem to stern. Installed a 6 fuse bus in place
of the reg that is also doubling for a terminus for the alt/bat primary which is going to be fused with a 30 amp maxi. Also installing a cube
relay to control the starter so the ign control circuits will all be low current... I'm probably into it for a couple hundred now in wire,
terminals, lights and heat shrink and loom parts... but it will be clean and easily disconnected if I need to split her in the future.
I'll see how time goes... may snap a couple pics later.

Rod

old · Jul 19, 2016

Never have figured out why people buy from flea bay when your local auto parts store has what you need and many times cheaper to boot. A simple Delco 3 wire alternator made for a 1980 Chev pickup no power any thing no a?c will cost a guy around $45 and I know my local O'Reilly's has then and that is with a life time warranty to boot.

Sean in PA · Jul 19, 2016

(quoted from post at 16:22:47 07/19/16) Never have figured out why people buy from flea bay when your local auto parts store has what you need and many times cheaper to boot. A simple Delco 3 wire alternator made for a 1980 Chev pickup no power any thing no a?c will cost a guy around $45 and I know my local O'Reilly's has then and that is with a life time warranty to boot.

But then you won't have a working tach.

Destroked 450 · Jul 19, 2016

(quoted from post at 13:22:47 07/19/16) Never have figured out why people buy from flea bay when your local auto parts store has what you need and many times cheaper to boot. A simple Delco 3 wire alternator made for a 1980 Chev pickup no power any thing no a?c will cost a guy around $45 and I know my local O'Reilly's has then and that is with a life time warranty to boot.

That's what I have on my 4000 that's been updated to the oil pump driven reverse rotation tach. I haven't found a drive adapter that will fit the early models with the screw in oil pump drive plug. There forth it takes a Delco with the tach drive adapter in order the do the conversion and have a working tach.
$125 on flea bay is the cheapest I've ever seen a kit with the tack drive adaptor.

souNdguy · Jul 19, 2016

He's getting a 10si with a tach drive on it.

Like the old 10dn, but cheaper and internal reg.

Hobo,NC · Jul 20, 2016

I don't think a 30 amp maxi will handle a alt but if it won't you will soon find out.

http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml

RodinNS · Jul 20, 2016

So far it's working.... but the battery is still fully charged. What happens when the battery is dead? Don't know yet...... Keep in mind I
only used the maxi to fuse the junction-starter post link, not the full output of the alt. I've also sized the respective cables sufficiently
that I can install a 40+ amp maxi. IIRC, it's a #6 cable..... The actual link between the alt and terminus is not fused and they never have
been that I know of in this application. These are also only 63 amp Delco's so they don't need huge wire.

Rod

Hobo,NC · Jul 20, 2016

I never figured out why the tractor world never caught on to using a fusible link... Mine has one now

RodinNS · Jul 20, 2016

I would have been happy to use a fusible link.... save the fact I can't buy them around here. If you ask any of the super duper parts sellers
around here for a 'fusible link' they hand you an inline ATO fuse holder with a 16 ga wire....... So that's why I went with the Maxi fuse.

Rod

Hobo,NC · Jul 20, 2016

I never had a problem finding it hanging on a parts tree at NAPA.
A small roll is pert neer a life time supply.

Direct fit links

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BEL784692/

Part No. Description Gauge Length
HP3130 Chrysler 16 89
HP3140 Ford 16 91
/89
HP3150 Chrysler 14 89
HP3160 GM 16 91
/49
HP3170 Ford 14 101
/89
HP3180 GM 14 91
/29

RodinNS · Jul 20, 2016

Thanks, good to know. Local NAPA here had no clue on fusible links and that was the one good guy they have..... the rest don't have a clue
between them.

Rod

Limbhangers · Jul 21, 2016

Fusible link is probably a good idea. What would y'all use 14ga?

Destroked 450 · Jul 21, 2016

The factory generator wire is 12 ga, 14 ga is only good for about 15 to 20 amps.

Limbhangers · Jul 22, 2016

(quoted from post at 14:28:32 07/21/16)
The factory generator wire is 12 ga, 14 ga is only good for about 15 to 20 amps.

I should do 16 ga. fusible link for a 12ga wire.

For "short" runs -

14ga 12V DC will carry about 40 amps. I think the 14ga fusible link is around 30+ amps but not necessarily measured in amps like a fuse.

If the generator wire is 12 ga. then has a max 60 amps 12V DC should be protected by the rule of thumb 16 ga. fusible link.

Kind of worried the 16 ga fusible link at 20 something amps. is going to be too small.

But to my knowledge nothing on this tractor looks like it would pull that many amps.

RodinNS · Jul 22, 2016

All I can tell you about fusible links is that 10 series tractors with the factory cab had a 51 amp alternator and used a 14 ga link to fuse
the main supply to the harness...... so if you're going with a 63 amp delco I would stick to that as a minimum. All that is really fusing is
the system's ability to draw from the battery or the alt's ability to stuff it back in. In reality you're not seeing large current flows in
either direction unless you have a huge electrical load that the alt can't handle OR you have a dead battery. So I'd go with that 14 ga
link... or a Maxi fuse. I wouldn't over think it....

Rod

Hobo,NC · Jul 22, 2016

https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Fusible-Link-Wire-10-AWG/55827.lp

To keep the correction police off yer arse It would be a good I.D. to up-grade the battery wire to the output of the alt to 10 gauge.

My 3000 still has the gen I installed the fusible link at the starter solenoid were the system picks up its voltage.

My conversions are a four wire I add a decanted ground. Like anything else I do I can make a project out of it :shock:

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Ford 2000 alternator conversion ?

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