Wondering why my 1966 ford 3000 runs for awhile and then shuts right off. Then half hour later starts right up like there is nothing wrong. have replaced points , condenser, coil, plug wires. Only thing I didn't replace is the distributor cap. Did replace the rotor. Lost for answers. Its a great tractor. first time I had any real problems. Need help. Thanks
- Thread starter duallyman
- Start date
Immediately after quitting pull off a plug wire and hold it about 1/4 from the block to check for spark. Then unscrew the carburetor bowl drain plug on the bottom of the carburetor bowl and see what kind of flow you get. If it dribbles out and then quits, check the elbow screen going into the carburetor, the fuel sediment bowl screen and finally check the bottom of the fuel tank for accumulated dirt. Also loosen the cap on the top of the fuel tank. It's possible that the vent in the cap may be plugged.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
As soon as it shuts off, get out of the
seat, pull a plug wire and check your spark.
You might have a bad connection that when it
gets warmed up starts to lose contact.
How long has it been since you went over
your wiring harness and cleaned all the
connections? Do them one at a time. Pull the
plug apart that connects the front and rear
halves of the wiring harness and soak it in
a cup of vinegar. Then wash it clean with
water. Let it dry. Then buy some dielectric
grease and coat all the pins before plugging
it back together.
Also, use a multimeter to check for
power to the coil, or use a test light.
I'm just guessing you are losing power to
the coil somewhere, somehow. Try to find out
why.
You are right, those are great tractors.
seat, pull a plug wire and check your spark.
You might have a bad connection that when it
gets warmed up starts to lose contact.
How long has it been since you went over
your wiring harness and cleaned all the
connections? Do them one at a time. Pull the
plug apart that connects the front and rear
halves of the wiring harness and soak it in
a cup of vinegar. Then wash it clean with
water. Let it dry. Then buy some dielectric
grease and coat all the pins before plugging
it back together.
Also, use a multimeter to check for
power to the coil, or use a test light.
I'm just guessing you are losing power to
the coil somewhere, somehow. Try to find out
why.
You are right, those are great tractors.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Don't forget he has a fuel pump on that tractor. So the usual test like on a 4 cylinder model with gravity flow won't tell him much. He'll get the contents of the float bowl to drain but nothing else.
Guys thanks for all the suggestions. I forgot to mention I did replace coil with new one. I did all plugs for juice and they all are firing. The tractor runs great like it should and it seems like something is heating up while I'm running and causes it to shut down. While its running should the fuel filter be filled with gas. When it started acting up I looked at filter and it looked empty. I am by no means a tractor mechanic so some of the stuff you are telling me to do I'm a little lost in trying to preform but I'll try to get them accomplished. Thanks for all the replies
robilmichael
Member
+1 for the ignition switch. I just had this problem on my 850. After about 15 minutes I would get no spark to the coil. Traced it back to the ignition switch. I diagnosed it by putting jumper wires across the switch terminals and it worked great. A new switch is on order.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
If all the other suggestions fail to solve the problem, remove the fuel tank cap and run your 30 minutes. If it doesn't stop running, get a new
one.....vent clogged.
one.....vent clogged.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
One of my mowers is a JD L110. Tank is behind the seat. The gauge is a cutout in the deck where you can see the actual gas level in the tank
from under the front of the seat. One day, after doing a lot of mowing, I was checking the gas and things didn't look right. Investigation revealed
that the opaque plastic tank was sucked up into somewhat of a wad......yepper, vent on the tank was clogged. Was lucky that I was able to get it
back to the original condition without any cracks or leaks.
from under the front of the seat. One day, after doing a lot of mowing, I was checking the gas and things didn't look right. Investigation revealed
that the opaque plastic tank was sucked up into somewhat of a wad......yepper, vent on the tank was clogged. Was lucky that I was able to get it
back to the original condition without any cracks or leaks.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
The problem you said was repeatable. A clogged vent will exhibit exactly repeatable conditions If you repeat your times that it quits and you let it rest. Letting it sit lets air seep back into the tank and equalizes the pressure allowing the fuel to flow out of the tank again.
Went to the farm yesterday and the tractor started right up as usual then after about an hour of running mowing grass without the cap I finished one area, it did sputter some, so I shut it down to refuel. Then I couldn't get it started again. Finally it did start and then it ran for a little while then started spitting and sputtering especially when going uphill while cutting grass. Then it quit again and when I tried to get it started again and every time I tried to increase power to move without the mower running it would quit. Finally got it started and limped it back to the barn and shut the SOB off. This thing is driving me crazy. Talked to a guy and he said I might have bought a bad coil cause it starts spitting and sputtering and then goes off. Bout ready to take a stick of dynamite to it.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
On the hill thing, sediment filter clogged, or tank full of it and it sloshes around clogging screen? Or needing extra power and not getting
it...governor not reacting properly...setting in manual. Coils can/will fail when hot. Looking for a failure mechanism, all I can come up with is that
the core laminations short decreasing the inductance, hence spark intensity, or the varnish on the wires is worn off from rubbing over the years
and the wire expands with heat and 2 bare wires touch and short, reducing again the inductance.
For what they cost, that should be a no brainer, smoking gun or not! Worth eliminating as a suspect.
it...governor not reacting properly...setting in manual. Coils can/will fail when hot. Looking for a failure mechanism, all I can come up with is that
the core laminations short decreasing the inductance, hence spark intensity, or the varnish on the wires is worn off from rubbing over the years
and the wire expands with heat and 2 bare wires touch and short, reducing again the inductance.
For what they cost, that should be a no brainer, smoking gun or not! Worth eliminating as a suspect.
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Spitting and spluttering when low on fuel and dying out going up hill is a classic symptom of a weak fuel pump on these tractors.
You could be having multiple issues with the fuel system, cap vent restricted, trash in the tank restricting fuel flow thru the screen or the screen has come off and trash is in the valve, fuel pump weak not able to pump enough fuel to the carb while going up hill under load.
Someone may have replaced the fuel cap with the wrong one, gas tractors use a different cap than the one used on diesels.
You've done a full tune up and swapped coils around with no improvements, leaving the gas cap off has got you past the thirty minute thing and into a low fuel or up hill problem.
Check the fuel filter, drain the tank, remove the fuel valve to check the screen for trash, if that doesn't fix it replace the fuel pump.
If you do find trash in the screen flush the tank while the valves out.
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