(quoted from post at 08:01:56 07/19/16) Be careful what you read on forums, including here at YT. I seriously doubted this 10-12 HP savings you quoted, so I did some of my own research and math...
A SB Chevy "high volume" oil pump puts out 23 GPM @ 6000 engine RPM (by comparison, Ford says that a 134/172 tractor engine oil pump is rated at 3.5 GPM @ 1400 engine RPM, so the SB Chevy figures sound quite reasonable). If you use the formula for hydraulic horsepower, which is HP = GPM x PSI / 1714, and plug in 50 PSI for system pressure, you will find that this high volume oil pump consumes a whopping 2/3 of one horsepower. If you double the pressure to 100 PSI, the difference between 50 & 100 PSI is again less than one HP.
More info here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/bb-sb-chevy-oil-pump-numbers-221702.html
With regards to oil pressure senders, keep in mind that these switches are set intentionally low so that they don't cause false alarms at hot idle. Let's say the switch in a tractor engine is set at 10 PSI, and let's also say that the relief valve spring in the oil pump is broken and/or weak. This engine might produce "good" oil pressure at idle, say 15 PSI, but the relief valve will open prematurely at higher speeds, and only make 25 PSI at higher RPMs. The warning light will never come on, and yet damage is likely being done to the engine if it's working hard. This is a major drawback to a warning light system.
The original poster said he had only 5 PSI at idle, and 15 revved up. I still maintain that this would spell disaster for a diesel engine in short order, and long-term problems for a gasser if it's worked hard. While Ford does not give a minimum allowable spec for oil pressure in these engines, the fact that the OP now has about 8 times the oil pressure after his seal repair, PLUS a heavy-duty knock that he apparently did not have before, it sure does not sound good to me.
hew! Just in the knick of time! I was thinking it was about to turn into a(quoted from post at 17:17:54 07/19/16) "You can't have 50 psi at the sink and 30 at the tub."
Oh yes sir, indeed you can. Just like you can have 11 volts at the battery and 9 volts at the starter while you're cranking the engine. Voltmeter will show 12.6 at both points until you put a load on the system.
I'm done with this thread also. Thanks for keeping it interesting and civil.
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