64 Ford Tractor 4000 industrial problems!!!

Hello I am the new owner of a 64 Ford 4000 Industrial tractor with loader. Tractor sat for a few years and until it was sold to me. Tractor is running but over heats and has an electric fan but I want to go back to mechanical to see if that helps. Where can I get a stock fan?..... I also have a problem the loader bucket it will not curl unless I play with the control back and forth until it does. The bucket curls up but its hard to get it to curl down. Any ideas?
 
Sounds like the loader hydraulics has air in the system and or needs to be checked for its reservoir to be full.

The fan for the 172 motor should be easily sourced, check this site here, I would think they would have one. Check the water pump shaft for play, in/out, radially(circular), if tight it should be ok. Thermostat would be next, place in hot water and see if it opens/closes when it cools down. Also check to see that the radiator is not clogged in the cooling fins, might need a good blowing out with compressed air, just don't use excessive pressure, just enough to clear dust and debris.

With a warm motor and without the radiator cap on, system pressurized, you can usually see coolant circulating, but DO NOT remove this cap after its been run and the motor is hot, system pressurized, that could easily burn you. You can leave the cap off from a cold start and low throttle the motor till it warms up and you can see coolant moving.
 
Parts site shows that they used a number of fan blade configurations for the '55-'64 4 cylinder tractors. They list part numbers for 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6 blade fans. If you're having overheating problems I would go with a 4 or 6 blade fan. But first pull the radiator and have it tested at a local radiator shop first. Then check the water pump itself for any any side play or end play on the shaft, as it might need to be rebuilt or replaced. Next to check is the thermostat. Pull it and put it into a pot of water on the stove and use a kitchen thermometer to see what temperature it opens at. It should open at around 168 on a gas engine, and around 180 on a diesel. Finally, is the original fan shroud in place? If not, install one. Oh yeah, flush the block while you have things disconnected from it to clean out the coolant passages in there.

Then once all of the above are known good you should be able to install a 4 or 6 bade fan and not have any problems with it overheating.
 

I will take a look at these things and look for a fan 4 or 6 blade. Ina.so need the fan shroud for it. Does the fan bolt straight onto water pump? Or does it need the spacer ?
 
I just notive that the bolt that hold my front axle to the arm it broken and piees stuck there. Picture is below can anyone tell me how i can take this out and where I can get the replacement ?
 
37643.jpg
 
From your picture it looks like the head of the bolt was cut or broken off, and the section of the bolt on the bottom that should have the nut on it is missing too, and even the center section of the bolt between the upper and lower cast eyelets on the axle is missing, and only the parts of the bolt that are inside the eyelets are still there. The piece of the bolt in the upper eyelet shouldn't have any threads on it at all so you should be able to spray it with a penetrating oil and then press it out. I'm not sure if the lower eyelet has threads of its own that the bolt threads into, or if the nut was the only thing that the bolt threaded into, but if there are no threads in the lower eyelet, then the lower section of the bolt may press out as well, otherwise I would use a left handed drill bit to drill a hole in it and hope the would spin it out. Be sure to spray it liberally with a good penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blast several times a day for several days before you try anything. Also, I would jack up the front end of the tractor and remove the axle assembly to work on it on the bench rather than on the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:06 07/06/16) I just notive that the bolt that hold my front axle to the arm it broken and piees stuck there. Picture is below can anyone tell me how i can take this out and where I can get the replacement ?

My plan would depend on what a close inspection revealed for weld holding those pieces in. Judging by the amount of post factory weld appearing in the picture, chances are some of those pieces are welded in.
 

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