NAA with overrunning clutch and Woods mower interference

I am in the process of replacing the u joint on the Woods mower, the overrunning clutch and the pto shaft on my NAA as I didn't realize the result of the distance between the end of the splined shaft coming out of the overrunning clutch and the lift arm pins shouldn't be less than 18" or the shaft of the OR clutch jams into the u joint and may damage the bearings there. I'm told I have to shorten the drive shaft of the mower to prevent the drive from bottoming out. Looks like I'll have to cut off about 3" to meet the 18" minimum. Do I have this right and what about the shaft shield on the mower? Will that be affected? I'd appreciate any advice or other method to make the M5-4 Woods mower work with an overrunning clutch. The mower has a slip clutch as well but I want to use the overrunning clutch for safety.

Before you cut your mower shaft, make sure it is not a square into a round sheath with square hole cap.. You can't cut those down like other shafts that you separate, measure then trim

(quoted from post at 17:42:23 07/07/16) Before you cut your mower shaft, make sure it is not a square into a round sheath with square hole cap.. You can't cut those down like other shafts that you separate, measure then trim

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Thanks for your response. The forward part of the mower shaft along with the jammed overrunning clutch is at my local Woods dealer as I was unable to free the clutch myself. What's still on the mower is the rear part of the shield and the square shaft within it. What should I look for on the forward part and shield to identify whether it is or is not a "a square into a round sheath with square hole cap" as you describe. I'm not cutting anything until I'm sure the result will solve the problem. As I ve said I'm intending to replace the existing PTO with a 1 and 3/8 diameter version and will test it for interference both with and without the overrunning clutch installed. Thanks again for your advice.

Square inner and outer, lemon shaped, and triangular. All those can be cut.

Its when one portion is square, and the other round, and the round part has an end to accept the square.

To shorten those, it takes a different approach.

(quoted from post at 19:57:14 07/07/16) Square inner and outer, lemon shaped, and triangular. All those can be cut.

Its when one portion is square, and the other round, and the round part has an end to accept the square.

To shorten those, it takes a different approach.

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Ok. I'll see what I've got. Thanks

(quoted from post at 21:21:02 07/07/16)

(quoted from post at 19:57:14 07/07/16) Square inner and outer, lemon shaped, and triangular. All those can be cut.

Its when one portion is square, and the other round, and the round part has an end to accept the square.

To shorten those, it takes a different approach.

Click to expand...

Ok. I'll see what I've got. Thanks

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To be prepared could you share with me the "different approach"?

I found the following instruction in my Woods mower manual:

"If it is desired to shorten a driveshaft in the field, do so by machining away the weld at the yoke, cutting off the tube and reselling". Is this the "different approach" you mentioned above?[/u]

(quoted from post at 19:57:14 07/07/16) Square inner and outer, lemon shaped, and triangular. All those can be cut.

Its when one portion is square, and the other round, and the round part has an end to accept the square.

To shorten those, it takes a different approach.

Click to expand...

Not sure a reply I sent in got to you and I misspelled a key word in it anyway. Here's a note in the Woods M5-4 manual I have that may describe the "different approach" you mention above:

"If it is desired to shorten a drive shaft in the field, do so by machining away the weld at the yoke, cutting off the tube and re-welding." Is this what you referred to as required when the round part has a cap to accept the square?