73 Ford 4000 Gas

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

Wow, been awhile since I have posted on here, almost 10 years to be exact. Recently moved back to home Minnesota and have been reconnected with all our ford tractors on the farm. One tractor that has been sitting awhile is our Ford 4000 3 cyl gas loader tractor. Been sitting a long time. Was overheating, could smell and see it too by how hot the muffler and engine was getting. Smoke would appear from the exhaust manifold and was leaking antifreeze as well. Water pump was leaking on the block side, replaced with new pump and seals. Fixed part of problem. Took for a drive and seemed to overheat a little and the smoke would still appear. Looks like oil is leaking from the front of valve cover and burning on the manifold. Also pops really really loud after you shut off. Should I be able to replace valve cover seal and all should be well or is this a sign of bigger problems? Any idea if the overheat issue is coming from something else? Thanks all!

Sean in PA · Jul 7, 2016

What does the temperature gauge show? If you doubt what the gauge says then get an infrared "point and click" thermometer and get the temperature off of the front of the head near the top of the water pump.

If it is running hot, there could be a number of things causing it:

1. Coolant age.

2. Coolant level.

3. Thermostat.

4. Exterior fins of radiator clogged.

5. Interior tubes of radiator clogged.

6. Coolant passages in block are clogged.

7. Missing fan shroud.

Leaking valve cover would not cause it to run hot, but oil dripping on the exhaust manifold from the leak would cause smoke.

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

Gauge cluster does not work. I installed new water pump,
hoses and thermostat. Coolant was flushed and replaced too.
Fan seems intact as well. I'll have to buy a temp gun. What
should the temp read at? Maybe I'll get another thermostat
too. Aftermarket are always prone to not work. Any
suggestions on oil leak at valve cover?

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

Sorry, just saw the bottom comment about leaking valve cover

souNdguy · Jul 7, 2016

running hot and popping?

i'd be checking 2 things.

1, advance and timing

2, fuel mix. Lean mix can cause heat and popcorn popping / pinging.

Tom in TN · Jul 7, 2016

Jeff,

Just one guys opinion - - - if I were you I'd follow up on what Soundguy said before I did anything else, especially before I'd buy a laser thermometer and started checking for temperatures in different parts of the tractor.

But then, that's just one old man's opinion.

Tom in TN

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

Ok, will check it out. Lets off a good backfire too after you shut it off, after ran for a short amount of time. Thanks

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

I will do what sound guy said, since I don't have a thermometer and would have to spend money on it. Those opinions are the most valuable to me, experience counts.

old · Jul 7, 2016

A back fire at shut off is from the fact as it spins down the engine is still sucking in gas and then that gas hits a hot spot which can be cause by carbon build up. My self I would check what sound says plus make sure the radiator is clean as in the fins are not clogged up with dirt and grass etc. Also make sure you can see coolant flow when it is warm with the radiator cap off. No flow can be a bad thermostat. I would also run it with a quart of ATF in 3 gal og gas to help clean up any carbon build up

souNdguy · Jul 7, 2016

Check for retarded timing especially.

Ultradog MN · Jul 7, 2016

Agree with it popping because of too lean a mixture.
I bought a Zenith carb to put on my 158 ci 3000.
Then I put the carb on a 201 and when I shut it off it would let off a pretty good backfire.
It also made the engine run hotter.
No temp gauge on the tractor but I could smell it and it was radiating more heat from around the ex manifold.

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

I don't know a lot about gas engines let alone the ford 3 cyl's. Tell me this, would retarded timing cause the tractor to run a lot harder and louder than normal? I say this because we have two 4000 3cyc gas tractors on the farm. One runs quiet, smooth and you can barley hear the exhaust. The other that I'm working on now, you almost go deaf after driving for an hour. I appreciate everyone's input. I'll start with the radiator flow and thermostat, then move to mixture. Then the timing and also will run some atf in the next tank to knock down some carbon build up.

souNdguy · Jul 7, 2016

Personally I'd check timing before anything else.. But that's me.

Mix can be checked with choke.

Loudness could simply be cheap vs expensive muffler... Like Stanley vs Donaldson.. Etc.

Timing and mix CAN make it run hot and pop.

Advance might be bad, etc.

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

I've tried several mufflers nothing seems to change. I'll check the timing. Thanks

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

It just seems to run a lot harder than the other 4000 in general

souNdguy · Jul 7, 2016

Advance may not be working at all..

Mission Creek · Jul 7, 2016

I have heard you can no longer get advance vacuum motors for the 3 cyl gas engines from anywhere. Is it true?

souNdguy · Jul 7, 2016

I've heard that as well.

Sean in PA · Jul 7, 2016

Up until a few years ago you could still buy the distributor assembly that included the vacuum advance diaphragm, but then they stopped being available, but I just checked Messick's and they list a "new style distributor assembly" and claim to have 1 in stock, but it says "Please Call".

Tom in TN · Jul 7, 2016

Jeff,

If by "vacuum motor" you are referring to a small, round vacuum canister that attaches to the distributor and advances the timing at high vacuum in the engine, you might be able to acquire one from all states ag parts. I got one from them about 4 or 5 years ago for my Ford 2000 3 cylinder gas tractor. I think that new ones from New Holland are no longer available but all states found one for me.

Good luck,

Tom in TN

David G · Jul 9, 2016

I agree with old on the popping, you probably idle it right down, then turn off the key. The closing of the throttle creates a rich mixture for a moment that accumulates in the muffler, when you shut it off, oxygen travels back down the muffler creating the right concentration for an explosion. Let it idle for a couple of minutes and I bet the backfiring stops.

Do check the timing and advance, but I bet it has little effect on the popping.

Mission Creek · Jul 10, 2016

Alright finally got around to messing with it, can't advance anymore without hitting the back carburetor. Thoughts?

souNdguy · Jul 10, 2016

Did you check the timing?

Mission Creek · Jul 10, 2016

Yes, needs to be advanced but cannot turn it anymore to the left to advance without it bumping into the carburetor. A very similar problem this guy is having on this thread:

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=609328

I'm not seeing an answer to his problem though

cdmn · Jul 11, 2016

If your timing is off that much, all you can do is move the spark plug wires one space each.. On the other hand,
the distributer advances the spark with centrifugal weights that pull against springs. If they are stuck, or springs
are rusted apart, then you have a problem. The vacuum advance is something most tractors don't have and don't need.
I suppose it gives a little better economy, and might make starting easier. A sudden increase in load, along with a
slight loss of vacuum will give a little retardation effect even though the engine speed holds pretty steady. This is
what prevents pinging on low octane gas.

Sean in PA · Jul 12, 2016

The distributors on the three cylinder tractors have two advance mechanisms, one is a mechanical advance with weights and springs, and the second one is a vacuum advance. I'm not sure why they designed them that way, but they will run pretty decent without the vacuum advance being functional if everything else is working properly. Just have to advance the base timing a couple of degrees and raise the idle a little.

73 Ford 4000 Gas

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