Ford 4000, what size box blade to run?

embarr

Member
Evening all. I was wondering what size box blade the 4000 owners were running? I look forward to using the crap out of this tractor when I'm done re-building it... :D
 
I have a '63 4cyl and run a 5' and 6' box blade on it. The 5' I use for skidding logs. It's a little easier to manuver in the woods.

Kirk
 
I run a heavy duty 6 footer on my 3000 diesel. When the box is full I can tell the tractor is straining some, but it still pulls it just fine. So, a 6 footer would be fine on a 4000, maybe even a 7 footer.
 
6 foot would be considered as "standard" size...however a 7 ft. would let you work a little closer to walls and other obstructions w/o worry of scrubbing your tires against the wall. I run an 8ft. behind my 4610 with 16.9 x 30 rear rubber. I had a 7 ft. behind it but my brother "borrowed" it several years ago to use behind his 4000SU and still has it. 7ft. behind my tractor would barely wipe out my tracks.

You won't be able to knock down that 6 inch high spot in your grading project with one pass anyway. A wider blade will enable you to do your "finish" job quicker and better.

I "vote" 7 ft.

Rick...who has been called an "artist" with his tractor and box blade.
 
It's nice to hear a vote for the 7 footer! I'm having dozer work done in the spring to clear 5 acres of what remains from the previous owners logging it, and I anticipate a LOT of leveling needing to be done afterwards.
 
(quoted from post at 22:37:27 01/10/12) Evening all. I was wondering what size box blade the 4000 owners were running? I look forward to using the crap out of this tractor when I'm done re-building it... :D

There's box blades, then there are BOX BLADES. Which type are you looking to buy? In your last post you said that it's for areas that have been logged. I can tell you that if you get a 7' box from the big Ag Supply stores, it will be tore up pretty quick on rocks and roots. Those are only really good for spreading gravel or moving loose earth.

I have a 66" box on a smaller tractor, but it's a tick under 1000 pounds. Weight is what makes them work and weight is what keeps them from twisting up like a pretzel (along with a decent design and materials). I chose Gannon's "Landscaper" box with the scarifier bar that goes up and down with a lever. Real handy. A hydrolic scar bar would be better, but no rear outlet :( .

You should probably also look into a GOOD middle buster. Modify it to put a sharp edge on the front of the shank to cut roots. A single shank can usually cut the roots where a bank of scarifiers will stop the tractor like an anchor with tooth rattling results. And if you have a 5-600 pound box, a twisted up mass of metal where the box used to be. I would run that middle buster in a cross hatch pattern and around stumps to get them cut loose.

While the serious boxes are spendy, they are a better value working in the woods because they hold up where the cheap ones fold up.

Just my $1.24 (2 cents adjusted for inflation)
 
Is Gannon the only one out there that makes a heavier box blade? I've been googling around, and it seems most box blades out there average 500~700 lbs, then there is Gannon at 1100+.
 
Hello , here's a pic of an older gannon,Good design,very heavy built. As john- bud says the weight is what makes it work, that is very true.
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(quoted from post at 14:35:38 01/11/12) Hello , here's a pic of an older gannon,Good design,very heavy built. As john- bud says the weight is what makes it work, that is very true.
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I have this same Gannon where can I get the top blade? Mine is missing it
 

I pull a 7ft Rino box blade with my 4000's, it's wide enough to take out the tire tracks and the tractor will pull it with the box full of rock.
 

On weight, I always added weight. Couldn't get too much. For finishing, I like to use the FEL bucket as you can tuck it all the way back, and your tractor tires are in the smooth aggregate making for a smoother finish. My best FEL for that was on a JD 4020 with an 8' bucket.
 

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