4630 - Electrical? Fuel Sender?

Billy NY

Well-known Member
1.) Whats the best way to detect a battery drain on this tractor, which is a '97 model year? I've done the test light thing with each post of the battery and one cable disconnected, ie; negative disconnected, test light connected between battery post and cable. Light is on both ways, and volt meter reads 12.8 or so each side. I tried pulling fuses then used the test light between the negative post and cable, light stayed on. Did not do this with the positive post and cable. I'm assuming this is a negative ground, as positive goes directly to the starter post, negative directly to the solenoid, (mall cylindrical component on top of starter)Nothing is stated in the operators manual.

Charging system seems to be 13.75 volts, but aside from any battery drain, it may just be a failing battery given its of '10 vintage, long before I owned this tractor. Load test shows its week and it dropped from 12.88 volts to 10. something after at least an hour on the trickle charger. Fully charged over night, load test showed its week.
This was a sudden problem, tractor sat inside a heated garage since February, it started fine in May. Parked outside under a tarp, one mouse made a nest behind the instrument cluster, all wires checked out to be intact, + he was not there very long, but there was a huge nest in there when I got the tractor, cleaned all of that off, but the scent draws em right back again, will lay a dryer sheet in there.

2.) Parts diagram shows a fuel sending unit under instrument cluster, but the only tank shown in the parts diagram is looking like a steel one without a fuel gauge sending unit. This has a plastic tank it appears if the fuel leak I have is a gasket in the sending unit just behind the fuse box. I'll have to drain the tank completely and replace the lower and upper gaskets for each component on the tank. Any concern about losing prime? Seems its just on the suction side of the fuel system.

Relatively minor problems, but that fuel residue sure builds up with field chaff, add an electrical problem, it would not take much to ignite. I cleaned it all off, time for an extinguisher to be mounted to the tractor and a low profile blade type shut off installed on the battery.
 
What model of Ford/ New Holland do you have so we can look up a schematic. Do you have a volt meter? If a continuity tester lights up and it is one of the simple two wire types you might have a major fault. What kind of fuses does this tractor have and are they in an accessible block?

As to the battery. If it is more than five or six years old it is probably ready for replacement. Check the battery case and see if it is bulged on the sides. This is indicative of a catastrophic failure.
 
Yes, it is supposed to be a negative ground system.... but what you describe... with the positive battery post going to the lug on the front of the starter motor is a clear case of positive ground hookup. SO....... someone has baked the diodes in the alternator and perhaps created a drain if that is truly how the cables are connected. Rehook them properly and then get a voltmeter on it and see if it makes 14.2V while running. If it doesn't, the alt is baked.
The fuel issue... I forget how the senders are installed in those plastic tanks. I thought they were still on the top of the tank.... but regardless, just drain the tank down below the sender level and fix whatever you have to fix. That part is not rocket science. The only reason you would lose prime is if you open the lines on the bottom of the tank.

Rod
 
4630 ford new holland tractor, digital voltmeter with a battery, yes there is a fuse block with the two prong, (non buss) type fuses. I'd agree, the battery is old enough and I've only had this tractor one year. All the cells are full, one might be slightly low, but you cannot see any plates. It might just have the slightest bulge in the case too. I loosened all the caps when charging and am very careful given the potential.
 
Rod, the connections/cables look factory, maybe my description is inaccurate, but I did trace them before I posted. Also being low hours, most of this tractor has never been worked on before. I'll see if I can get a clear photo of it this arrangement. It was charging 13.75 volts, but with a suspect battery connected, I'm not sure if that would show a lower charge reading. I did unhook the negative cable and put the meter on there again and it was the same at 13.75 volts. I'll take another look. It states to not unhook the battery when the engine is running, I just wanted to check the charging system without a load on it, if that's the correct way to put it or do it.

The sending unit on this one is on the front face of the tank, so that ought to work fine, but I figured both gaskets should be replaced if I drain it. Seems if the bottom one is not leaking, I can leave it. Funny how the trail of fuel goes down the tank and ends up at the bottom fuel connection to the tank, making it look like that one is leaking.
 
(quoted from post at 09:53:13 07/04/16) 1.) Whats the best way to detect a battery drain on this tractor, which is a '97 model year? I've done the test light thing with each post of the battery and one cable disconnected, ie; negative disconnected, test light connected between battery post and cable. Light is on both ways, and volt meter reads 12.8 or so each side. I tried pulling fuses then used the test light between the negative post and cable, light stayed on. Did not do this with the positive post and cable. I'm assuming this is a negative ground, as positive goes directly to the starter post, negative directly to the solenoid, (mall cylindrical component on top of starter)Nothing is stated in the operators manual.

Charging system seems to be 13.75 volts, but aside from any battery drain, it may just be a failing battery given its of '10 vintage, long before I owned this tractor. Load test shows its week and it dropped from 12.88 volts to 10. something after at least an hour on the trickle charger. Fully charged over night, load test showed its week.
This was a sudden problem, tractor sat inside a heated garage since February, it started fine in May. Parked outside under a tarp, one mouse made a nest behind the instrument cluster, all wires checked out to be intact, + he was not there very long, but there was a huge nest in there when I got the tractor, cleaned all of that off, but the scent draws em right back again, will lay a dryer sheet in there.

2.) Parts diagram shows a fuel sending unit under instrument cluster, but the only tank shown in the parts diagram is looking like a steel one without a fuel gauge sending unit. This has a plastic tank it appears if the fuel leak I have is a gasket in the sending unit just behind the fuse box. I'll have to drain the tank completely and replace the lower and upper gaskets for each component on the tank. Any concern about losing prime? Seems its just on the suction side of the fuel system.

Relatively minor problems, but that fuel residue sure builds up with field chaff, add an electrical problem, it would not take much to ignite. I cleaned it all off, time for an extinguisher to be mounted to the tractor and a low profile blade type shut off installed on the battery.

4630 is negative ground, positive wire goes to the top post on the solenoid and ground wire connects to the upper outside bolt that holds the starter onto the engine.
6 year od battery can go bad suddenly, if the battery is testing week replace it, 97 model should use a group 31 truck style battery that is cheaper than the 4DLT battery used in older models. Disconnect the wires from the alternator, use test light between the battery and cable to see if the alt is shorted.
Steel tanks have the sending unit on top behind the dash, yours has a plastic tank with the fuel sending unit located in the right front side of the tank behind the fuse box and uses a rubber gasket between the sending unit and tank. Drain the fuel down below sender in order to remove it, if you do get air into the line it can be bleed out at the filter base, just don't start the engine with no fuel in the tank or lines disconnected.
 
The tractor will work with the cables hooked wrong.... other than it won't charge. That usually fries the regulator and diodes as soon as it's hooked up. The first arc lets the smoke out, so to speak... Wouldn't be a big deal for someone to have installed a 31 battery arse first as they are symmetrical to begin with.

Rod
 
That's true, though the cables are sized for each leg, I've seen a few wiring jobs with some things left do be desired. I'll have to check and see if its shorted, but it did read 13.75 volts, and I did run this tractor for 25 hours or so last season without any electrical issues. It was outside until it first got cold, high 20'S F or so, at that point I could tell the battery seemed a little weak. Just this week it did not have enough to start the tractor. Good combination for a fire with that fuel leak, glad it went dead in the yard and not burned up in the field !
 
That usually fries the regulator and diodes as soon as it's hooked up. The first arc lets the smoke out, so to speak...

Rod[/quote]
I thought that was only true for Lucas products.

I think RodinNS has nailed it. A certain relative reverse polarized one of the batteries in his ford 350 super duty diesel truck. Fried the alternator and left a 3-5 amp current drain which I traced to the charging system. I did not know about the battery until I repeatedly tried to charge the battery and it kept pegging my charger. lol
 
Ahh, but you forget.... it is a Lucas product.
Actually Magnet Marelli, but pretty much the same thing... They're an OK alternator but certainly not a Motorolla.

Rod
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top