Mid 70's Ford 3400 not starting, I am new to diesel

First let me say hello to all and a pre thank you for any advice. I have a mid 70's Ford 3400 Diesel with CAV fuel system. When I purchased the tractor it ran/drove/operated great at the lot and no leaks. After being delivered everything changed. It was leaking fuel really bad from day 1 so I started fixing the fuel system. This tractor ran before I started fixing it up other than it was leaking fuel and a little stubborn to start. A quick shot of ether was used. In my quest to stop all the leaks I have done the following,
1. Replaced the fuel shutoff and screen at the tank.
2. New fuel line from fuel shutoff to Filter housing.
3. New filter housing and filter.
4. New fuel line from filter exit to intake on the fuel injector pump.
5. Had the fuel injector pump rebuilt.
6. New fuel lines between injectors and return to tank.
7. A brand new industrial tractor battery.
8. 10 gallons fresh diesel
9. Bled the system at the filter, then the pump, then the injectors.
The folks at the pump repair were surprised it ran due to damage to the cam lobes. At this point the only things not replaced are
1. Injectors ( I am wondering if debris from the damaged pump lobes has gone downstream and ruined these)
2. High pressure lines from pump to injectors
3. A second fuel line from filter exit to injector pump.
I have ordered new injectors and will replace as soon they are here. However, when trying to start the tractor she turns well and puffs a little white smoke while turning. I am under the understanding that this is fuel getting to the cylinders. I have good pressure to the injectors and no leaks so I assume the high pressure lines are good. Could the injectors be bad and still allowing fuel into the cylinders? Would this be enough to not start? Any suggestions for more trouble shooting? I have soo much more to do in regards to power steering and replace loader hoses that I just need to make some progress on restarting it. Not to mention I could really use this machine for taking care of the animals/pastures. Thanks again for taking the time to ponder this issue.

In addition to whatever gets told for you try, you also need to put an additive in your diesel to put some lubricity back into your fuel. Neither the Simms nor CAV pumps were designed for the current ultra low sulfur fuels.

When you put the pump back on did you get the timing marks aligned properly. CAV pump timing is set at the pump shop but the pumps timing mark on the outside bolt flange needs to align with the zero mark on the engines timing gear housing.
A small shot of either in the air cleaner may help get it going, not to much and not directly into the intake.

Hi I'm thinking it could be pump timing as well it ran before you did this and hopefully it's bled right. was the tractor static timed on number 1
cylinder before you took the pump off and the motor not turned after removal,as you loose that motor position.

When the pump came back it should of been set on number 1 pump element and maybe locked in position with wire. every pump i ever had back was set
like that, and you don't goof round turning it before you put it back on. I don't know the drive set up for that tractor. on some motors it can be
possible to end up with the pump so far out of time if not set on no 1 before removal that it's not even putting the fuel in the right cylinder let
alone at the right time.

If it was me I would of got a service manual if you don't have one. read the pump removal process before tacking it off, and now read the re
install process. We don't know what you did to remove the pump whether it was done right or installed right. You can't guess the problem until you
know it's timed 100% the correct way. From the list you have there is a lot being spent on this tractor and you still aren't done. throwing
thousands into an old tractor you won't ever get back doesn't pencil out. it's better to buy one the last guy lost his shirt on rebuilding than
loosing your own L.O.L.

I'm not trying to be rude, ignorant or anything else I fix here in my shop for guys so have to follow the correct process with these things, i use
to buy and sell fixer up tractors to. I quit when the guy selling the fixer upper, and the parts guy made more than me doing the work and selling
them, so know about spending as well.
Regards Robert

You"ve virtually rebuilt the fuel system. Avoid using starting fluid. It"s a good way to break rings! Is your battery in good shape and does the starter really crank the engine over? Are you sure you installed the pump with the correct timing? You say it ran well but if you had to use starting fluid, that could be an indication of worn rings or leaking valves. Leaking injectors can burn the piston crown. Have you checked the compression?

(quoted from post at 14:12:15 06/24/16) In addition to whatever gets told for you try, you also need to put an additive in your diesel to put some lubricity back into your fuel. Neither the Simms nor CAV pumps were designed for the current ultra low sulfur fuels.

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Thanks, I am using off road diesel. I will find outif its low sulfur or not!

I did match the timing marks up exactly, I had pictures of the marks before removal to make sure!

(reply to post at 22:22:27 06/25/16)

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Thanks Robert, I did remove the pump and install according to the shop maual. No insult taken here for good advice. As for buying a mess, well we all make mistakes. The fluids were all good, it started and ran great when I looked at it at the lot. I am still leaning towards timing, mainly tginking that it was timed to the worn/missing lobes inside the pump. With a new ring and lobes inside the pump maybe the timing changed also? I am not frustrated with the money invested in this old tractor. More with myself for not figuring it out yet.

All good questions!! The battery is brand new and a full size industrial tractor battery which I have shop battery charger/jumper to assist it. The starter "sounds" like its turning the engine well, how would you recommend checking it? Remove and test like an auto starter? I believe the system is bled given the flow to the injectors and lack of bubbles from the bleeding screws. As for the compression, my neighbor has 4-5 old tractors including the same engine on at least one. I know this is not scientific, but he believes the compression is good based on how well it was running prior to the fuel system repairs. He is one of those ol'timers that seems to always have the right answer and been a blessing of a neighbor so his opinion usually holds value with me. This however has still been in the back of my mind. I have been trying to track down a gauge set to test when I replace the injectors. Do you know if the economy gauges for around $50 are good? I would hate to buy a fancier expensive set for this one time. Thank you all for your time!!

Has to be one of the better diesel rated gauges that will read up to 5-600 psi and has an adapter to fit where the ford injector goes. I have a Snap On gauge and a big cam Cummins adapter but haven't bought one for a Ford tractor yet.
You could try pull starting it if you have someone that's good at towing.
One time my dad has a hired hand pull him to get his old 850 started because the battery was low. The guy took off running almost 30 mph and dad was afraid to let out on the clutch thinking it would throw the rods out if the engine reved that high. He finally got the guy stopped and had mom get in the truck and pull him.
I know a lot of folks are afraid of either but I've started a lot of engines with it and have blown one up yet, only spray in small spurts and never directly into the engine.

Thanks Destroked, i am going to try to get my neighbor to pull start. He has a big case. Unfortunately we are going out of state for vacation so I may not be able to do much more until then. I'll post how it goes.