'69 4000 Tachometer

I found out why my tach doesn't work. The cable has been disconnected and tucked up under the cowling behind the regulator. I guess this was done because the tractor has an alternator. Two questions:

I'm rewiring the tractor with a new wiring harness. Currently, there are no wires connected to the alternator. I've only used the tractor a few times, so I guess it's not charging the battery and maybe this is why the lights all were cut on the old harness. The new harness has 3 wires going to the "generator", so I should hook up the "Armature" wire to the stud & nut - goes to the battery. The field coil wire goes to left hand terminal (viewed from the back). Correct? The 3rd wire goes to the oil sending unit.

Question 2 is about the tach. There's no way to attach the existing cable and use the instrument cluster tach. Is there an aftermarket tach I can use with a 3 cyl diesel?
 
If your tach swings clockwise get a delco alternator for a 165 Massey with tach drive. They are less than $110 on ebay it will require a regulator $35 and it will work with your factory tach. I have used this to change generator Fords to and alternator.
 
Interesting. I looked up the alternator here:

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-165_Alternator_ADR0327.html

The tach cable I have has a threaded end which screws onto the generator.
 
Is this the proofmeter cable you are reffering to?
http://www.external_link/ABC565-metal-sheathed-tach-cable--fits-ford-naa-jubilee-and-other-models!
 
Posted too quickly. Thanks Sunbeam. Great suggestion - I hadn't considered that alternators with tach drives were available. Still a lot for me to learn. What about this?

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-4000_12-Volt-Conversion-Kit_6X10300ALTH.html

I'm assuming that the "tach drive" mentioned is for the tach cable? I can't call them until Monday.
 
I don't know that it's that exact cable, but it looks the same.

I assume that this cable also drives the hour meter?
 
You need to call and check about the conversion kit they make alternators with electric tach drives that won't work with the cable tach. And their 165 alternator on this site comes less the drive. Look at ebay item 281893625488 that tach drive is what you want.
 
So, the alternator has 3 terminals: Battery, Field and Sense. I only have wires for battery and field in the new harness. What do I do with sense? I've read that some people are wiring that terminal to the hot terminal on their fuel pump or starter motor.
 
The sense on a alternator is under the rubber plug on the side. It is a redundant feature. Some of the older alternators needed to be excited when you turned on the key. Todays one wire alternators no longer need the exciter, yet your welcome to hook it up if you want. The sense wire is connected on the #2. Refer to the attached image.
37132.jpg
 
Thanks Willy. That's pretty much the same diagram that I found. Good to know that the "sense" is no longer necessary to connect.
 
(quoted from post at 18:30:30 06/20/16) The sense on a alternator is under the rubber plug on the side. It is a redundant feature. Some of the older alternators needed to be excited when you turned on the key. Todays one wire alternators no longer need the exciter, yet your welcome to hook it up if you want. The sense wire is connected on the #2. Refer to the attached image.
37132.jpg

Good diagram, On the one's I've converted I ran a short jumper from the battery post on the alternator to the #2 sense terminal.
 
I've paid $200 before just to get an internally regulated alternator with a tach drive to fit my thousand series fords, and made my own brackets.

Was cruising ebay while reading your post, and found this alternator, with a tach drive and brackets for $125 delivered.

That's cheap.

Never bought from the guy, but his feedback seems good. Tempted to buy one and stick it on the shelf for when the next regulator pukes on one of my non-converted tractors.

Good luck

Fred
ebay alternator
 

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