Hello and thanks in advance for your insight. I have an 861 Diesel that I've owned and used for the past 30 years mostly to mow with. This year I had to replace the clutch because of oil getting through the input shaft. I replaced seals and bearings and clutch. Also replaced the input shaft housing and bearing and seal. At any rate after about 10 hour of use, and no leakage at all, the hydraulic lift quit working, with no fluid on stick. After a little search, I found that my transmission is now way overfull. Can someone tell me how this happened and what I have to do to get it fixed? Stumped in Oklahoma!!
- Thread starter rivetset
- Start date
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
There is a pair of tunes that go through the
bottom of the transmission - between the hyd
manifold and hyd reservoir.
They can rust out and fill your transmission
with oil.
Sounds like this is what happened to you.
Others here can help you with a fix - I have
never done it.
bottom of the transmission - between the hyd
manifold and hyd reservoir.
They can rust out and fill your transmission
with oil.
Sounds like this is what happened to you.
Others here can help you with a fix - I have
never done it.
I am afraid you are correct. That makes perfect sense. I just had this tractor split and did see those tubes going through the bell housing but didn't give it a second thought. I am waiting to see what it takes to fix it. Hoping for response from someone who has been there and has pointers. Thanks
the smaller of the 2 tubes has perforated.. the pressure tube.
there are pretty much 2 methods to repair. get a new stepped diameter tube, snatch the old one out, press the old one in and go. old one can usually be snatched by removing plumbing manifold and tapping the tube with a tap, screwing in a fastener and then using a slide hammer. I think credit goes to memer 'Hobo' for that little trick of threading and pulling.
the other repair is more of a bandaid.. or at least a dice roll.
you drain the oil, clean the tube innard with carb cleaner till squeaky clean.. then find something like aluminum tubing that is just small enough to fit, slather it down head to tail with some sort of epoxy, push it in, and hope the epoxy seals up the leak path. let cure, then test. It has been pointed out that this sleeving reduces the pipe inside diameter, so you could experience less hyd gpm flow.. etc.
there are pretty much 2 methods to repair. get a new stepped diameter tube, snatch the old one out, press the old one in and go. old one can usually be snatched by removing plumbing manifold and tapping the tube with a tap, screwing in a fastener and then using a slide hammer. I think credit goes to memer 'Hobo' for that little trick of threading and pulling.
the other repair is more of a bandaid.. or at least a dice roll.
you drain the oil, clean the tube innard with carb cleaner till squeaky clean.. then find something like aluminum tubing that is just small enough to fit, slather it down head to tail with some sort of epoxy, push it in, and hope the epoxy seals up the leak path. let cure, then test. It has been pointed out that this sleeving reduces the pipe inside diameter, so you could experience less hyd gpm flow.. etc.
I am all about trying to pull the tube out the front of the transmission housing. I haven't found the tube anywhere so far. This makes me feel as if there is a chance not to have to split tractor again. Any pointers on who might have the tube?
Thanks so much for the info. Jim
Thanks so much for the info. Jim
Just an update. I have tried several places, Yesterdays tractor, Steiner and Ford New Holland and am told these tubes are no longer in production. I may have to get mine out and see if there is a possibility to have on manufactured, That is of course, assuming someone doesn't come up with one.
Any other ideas welcome.
this come sup time to time, I had thought someone with a home lathe might be doing them.
I guess you could snatch yours out and clean it up real well and sleeve it outside the tractor so that you are assured to get 100% coverage inside the tube with epoxy, before sliding in the sleeve, makins sure the sleeve seals at both ends and at the perforation. then when cured, clean up the ends and perf'd area, then tap back in, replace orings and go.
this is one of those limited option problems. Worst option isn't best.. but faced with NOT finding a replacement part, and having to sleeve.. might at least try to make the sleeve as sucessfull as possible.
just don't ruin the pipe pulling it if you go that route.
Heck.. if you had it pulled.. and could find a copper sleeve, you cold slather down with flux and slip the sleeve in and silver solder that puppy... but that will likely be harder to find than the glue in tube.
I guess you could snatch yours out and clean it up real well and sleeve it outside the tractor so that you are assured to get 100% coverage inside the tube with epoxy, before sliding in the sleeve, makins sure the sleeve seals at both ends and at the perforation. then when cured, clean up the ends and perf'd area, then tap back in, replace orings and go.
this is one of those limited option problems. Worst option isn't best.. but faced with NOT finding a replacement part, and having to sleeve.. might at least try to make the sleeve as sucessfull as possible.
just don't ruin the pipe pulling it if you go that route.
Heck.. if you had it pulled.. and could find a copper sleeve, you cold slather down with flux and slip the sleeve in and silver solder that puppy... but that will likely be harder to find than the glue in tube.
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