Where to get a single-wire temperature gauge

I've got a 1972 Ford 4000 gas and the temp gauge is shot, but I don't want to have to replace the entire instrument cluster just to have a working temp gauge. It seems like it's just a one-wire gauge, with one line straight to the sender and a ground. I don't mind an aftermarket gauge, but they all require a fuse connection it seems. The NH website quotes me $114 for just the temp gauge! (p/n 86548586). Could anybody give me some guidance on this one? I'm slowly getting a finicky old tractor into good working condition and currently am troubleshooting a mild overheat issue (runs for a good 40-60 minutes under moderately heavy load before complaining; but would like it to just keep going). The compression is a little low but surprisingly good for its age, and seems like it just needs some tlc.
 
Is the one you have a mechanical gauge with a capillary tube connecting the gauge and "bulb"/sensor?

AFAIK, ANY electric gauge you are going to find is going to have to be powered from the switched side of the ignition switch.

<img src = "http://www.wahlracing.com/images/P/10-400.jpg">
Oh, REALLY?
 
The original gauge is an electric gauge. It just seemed like the original gauge just has two wires going from it, but I took a closer peek and it all bundles together with the other instrument panel wires into a multi-port plug. I assume the power is somewhere in there, and just goes to all of the gauges. Do you have any idea where would be a good place to hook the 'power' wire into (i.e. not the ground or the line to the sender)?
 
(quoted from post at 12:29:09 06/04/16) The original gauge is an electric gauge. It just seemed like the original gauge just has two wires going from it, but I took a closer peek and it all bundles together with the other instrument panel wires into a multi-port plug. I assume the power is somewhere in there, and just goes to all of the gauges. Do you have any idea where would be a good place to hook the 'power' wire into (i.e. not the ground or the line to the sender)?
ith the original, both the fuel and temperature gauges were powered from the instrument voltage stabilizer. That will not be the way an aftermarket gauge will work. Furthermore the sender will need to be matched to the gauge. Not just any sender/gauge combination will read correctly.
 
Keyed power goes to the voltage stabilizer. You can pick up power for your new gauge there. The wire connected to the 'S' terminal of the gauge goes to the sender interrupt that for your sender lead. As others state, your new gauge must be matched to the proper sender.
 

This is all helpful, but I'm a bit confused about the gauge/sender combo. At the auto parts stores it seems like the gauges are sold separately from the senders (for electrical gauges anyways). How do I make sure they're matched up?
 
The sending unit is the ground in the system . ground out the wire that hooks to the sending unit . if your gauge works then you need a $12 sending unit , if not it could be a lot of work to fid the problem .

You can buys whole instrument panel for $90

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EHPN10849A-New-Ford-Tractor-Instrument-Gauge-Cluster-2000-3000-4000-5000-7000-/230691573280?hash=item35b64a0e20:g:R3kAAOSwn9lXJ2TO
 
Gotta have power to the gauge unless
it's mechanical. Myself I would buy an
aftermarket original style replacement
before I went monkeying around too much.
Also are you sure gauge is bad it's not
just the sender?
 
Probably going to go with an original cluster style replacement. The gauge is definitely the bad part; mechanical damage to it. Sender worked on a friend's 3000.
 

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