1969 Ford 4000 Diesel Wiring Harness

So I just bought this tractor. In trying to figure out why the lights don't work, I learned that some dear soul has cut the wiring harness. I've been trying to determine which wiring harness I need since this tractor was made in the UK and the FoMoCo manual says that Series A & B tractors (somewhere & Bedlington, UK) use a 1 piece harness. C series tractors (US made) use a 2-piece harness. After a couple days of banging my head online, I called New Holland. I gave them my serial number & unit number. They told me that I needed the following harness: 81830069 D3NN14A103H. Description:

One New Aftermarket Replacement Front Wiring Harness that fits New Holland Tractor Models 2000, 3000, 3400, 3500, 3550, 3600, 4000, 4400, 4410, 4140, 4500, 5340, 3150. Replaces Part Numbers D3NN14A103H, 81830069. NC

That implies that there's also a rear wiring harness...

Oh yeah. They had one in Indiana (I'm in SC) and the price was $473. I just looked it up on Amazon - $68. CAVEAT EMPTOR (Buyer beware)!


Anyway, I'm thinking that I'll just splice those wires back in. Maybe cut since the lights were all corroded and maybe were shorting to ground.
 
I thought we discussed this the other day.
Does your tractor still have the horn and turn signals that the Euro models had?
If not just buy a wiring harness for a 3000 diesel. They are not color coded the same but are 2 piece, cover the lighting, charging, starting, gauge cluster and thermostart circuits. Easy to install.
The reason I suggest a 3000 is because there are two different Ford 4000s - the early 4 cylinder model and the 3 cylinder model like you have and some sellers don't know the difference.
The 3000 harness is identical to the 3 cyl 4000.
 
It has a horn, but I don't see any turn signals or controls for turn signals. Just a horn button in the dash. I don't care about a horn or turn signals. Lights are necessary, IMO. I guess my frustration is around the ignorance of sellers (I shouldn't be surprised, I know) and the lack of definitive info on the internet. There are a ton of part numbers tossed around, but no definitive info. I'm an engineer and that makes my red a** flare up. I was disappointed when I called Yesterdays Tractors and the sales rep couldn't tell me which harness I needed, whether it came with instructions, if there was a wiring diagram, if it supported lights, etc.

Thanks for the information. I'm going to see if the extant harness is reparable, otherwise I'll just buy a C9NN14A103B 2-piece and make it work.
 
(quoted from post at 18:37:48 06/03/16) It has a horn, but I don't see any turn signals or controls for turn signals. Just a horn button in the dash. I don't care about a horn or turn signals. Lights are necessary, IMO. I guess my frustration is around the ignorance of sellers (I shouldn't be surprised, I know) and the lack of definitive info on the internet. There are a ton of part numbers tossed around, but no definitive info. I'm an engineer and that makes my red a** flare up. I was disappointed when I called Yesterdays Tractors and the sales rep couldn't tell me which harness I needed, whether it came with instructions, if there was a wiring diagram, if it supported lights, etc.

Thanks for the information. I'm going to see if the extant harness is reparable, otherwise I'll just buy a C9NN14A103B 2-piece and make it work.
t IS 47 years old.
 
(quoted from post at 20:22:20 06/03/16)
Yep, and I'm 55. Do you want your doctor to lose the parts manual just because you're 47?
T isn't the doctor. CNH is as close as you are going to get. Your medical doctor is just "practicing" too. Best that you sit down, study & learn your tractor & not be so dependent.
 
Wiring for 1969 Basildon built tractor.
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D3NN14A103 was the original part number for a European made 4000 tractor. The description on the parts site just says "Main Harness", it does not say "Front".

The original part number is no longer available and has been superseded by part number 81830069, but the description hasn't change, it still just says "Main Harness".

If you Google either of those part numbers almost all hits returned will say "Front Wiring Harness". Given that the only thing rearward of the dashboard that is electrical was the rear lights and trailer wiring, and in the parts drawing for the "Rear Lamps & Wiring" there is another wiring harness listed that is described as "Wire Harness Assembly, From Main Harness", which has a couple of part numbers depending on whether it has brake lights or not, I would say that calling the Main Wiring Harness the "Front Wiring Harness" is a fair description.
 
Dave, If you figure the mess out, let me know....... I would just like a working Temperature gauge. DO NOT try to take the Temp. sender out, unless you feel it it is absolutely necessary. It is a major PIA.

Bill
 
(quoted from post at 23:32:12 06/03/16)
(quoted from post at 20:22:20 06/03/16)
Yep, and I'm 55. Do you want your doctor to lose the parts manual just because you're 47?
T isn't the doctor. CNH is as close as you are going to get. Your medical doctor is just "practicing" too. Best that you sit down, study & learn your tractor & not be so dependent.

Asking questions is how I learn. If I didn't think there was a wealth of knowledge on this forum, I wouldn't have joined. Sorry if this upsets you. Like I said, I've had this tractor for a few weeks. Many of you have been around them for years and probably take for granted as "basic" a lot of things that many "newbies" are still trying to figure out.
 
(quoted from post at 14:03:05 06/04/16)
(quoted from post at 23:32:12 06/03/16)
(quoted from post at 20:22:20 06/03/16)
Yep, and I'm 55. Do you want your doctor to lose the parts manual just because you're 47?
T isn't the doctor. CNH is as close as you are going to get. Your medical doctor is just "practicing" too. Best that you sit down, study & learn your tractor & not be so dependent.

Asking questions is how I learn. If I didn't think there was a wealth of knowledge on this forum, I wouldn't have joined. Sorry if this upsets you. Like I said, I've had this tractor for a few weeks. Many of you have been around them for years and probably take for granted as "basic" a lot of things that many "newbies" are still trying to figure out.
sking, reading, doing is how we all learn. No upset on my part. Maybe on yours, with "my red a** flare up". I was just saying that which you said later, "asking, trying to learn.." is how you get there. We are all willing to help.
 
Those European models had funny multi position light switches that are expensive even in aftermarket brands . unless you need high / low / turn signal / brake lights just get a on / off switch .

You have one hot wire that comes from the key switch . it needs a ten amp fuse before the switch then one wire to the head lights .

It is an axillary circuit so there is no reason to mess with the whole harness unless you just want to . The new led lights look odd but actually outperform the old glass incandescent lights many times over . your call .

You will be way ahead to buy the FO31 repair manual and read every page . do you know how to check the hydraulic fluid level , the trans gear oil , which injector pump you have , how to check / add oil to the injector pump ? The fo31 will help keep your 4000 running properly
 
(quoted from post at 15:16:23 06/04/16)
(quoted from post at 14:03:05 06/04/16)
(quoted from post at 23:32:12 06/03/16)
(quoted from post at 20:22:20 06/03/16)
Yep, and I'm 55. Do you want your doctor to lose the parts manual just because you're 47?
T isn't the doctor. CNH is as close as you are going to get. Your medical doctor is just "practicing" too. Best that you sit down, study & learn your tractor & not be so dependent.

Asking questions is how I learn. If I didn't think there was a wealth of knowledge on this forum, I wouldn't have joined. Sorry if this upsets you. Like I said, I've had this tractor for a few weeks. Many of you have been around them for years and probably take for granted as "basic" a lot of things that many "newbies" are still trying to figure out.
sking, reading, doing is how we all learn. No upset on my part. Maybe on yours, with "my red a** flare up". I was just saying that which you said later, "asking, trying to learn.." is how you get there. We are all willing to help.

I appreciate the help. I'm not upset with anyone here.

I'm wondering why someone would cut the harness to all of the lights. Short to ground somewhere that they couldn't be bothered to find / fix? That upsets me, but I'll fix it and move on.
 

I'm uploading the manuals that I've found so far. If there are others, I'd love to get a copy. Maybe these uploads will be of use to someone else.

So far, I've changed engine oil & filter, air filter oil (nasty) and flushed the radiator. I haven't checked transmissions, differentials or hydraulics yet. Lots of things to check. I'm confused that the owners manual shows a hand brake on the left side. I don't have one there or see where one would attach.
 

Well, I'm not uploading them because they're way too big. If anyone wants them, PM me and I'll email them to you.
 
That hand brake was a nice feature.
But I think they were prone to get left
engaged and wore out the brake discs and
rotor inside. There was an oil seal on the
shaft that went into the pinion gear. That
seal wore out and would allow water to enter
the rear end.
There was one on the first 4000 I had.
It was completely worn out and replacement
parts are very expensive.
I removed it and installed a round cover
like you have on yours.
 
(quoted from post at 16:22:19 06/04/16) Those European models had funny multi position light switches that are expensive even in aftermarket brands . unless you need high / low / turn signal / brake lights just get a on / off switch .

You have one hot wire that comes from the key switch . it needs a ten amp fuse before the switch then one wire to the head lights .

It is an axillary circuit so there is no reason to mess with the whole harness unless you just want to . The new led lights look odd but actually outperform the old glass incandescent lights many times over . your call .

You will be way ahead to buy the FO31 repair manual and read every page . do you know how to check the hydraulic fluid level , the trans gear oil , which injector pump you have , how to check / add oil to the injector pump ? The fo31 will help keep your 4000 running properly

The above light switch suggestion will cost you $20.0 max.
 

I'm planning to use this tractor to power a wood chipper. I'd like to be able to set a brake while the tractor is running in neutral. I don't like the idea of using the FEL bucket and the chipper frame as brakes. How do you guys do it with no parking brake?
 
(quoted from post at 17:38:34 06/04/16)
I'm planning to use this tractor to power a wood chipper. I'd like to be able to set a brake while the tractor is running in neutral. I don't like the idea of using the FEL bucket and the chipper frame as brakes. How do you guys do it with no parking brake?

Cut a wood wedge to fit under the running board when the pedals are down ?
 
Your question about why someone would cut the wires amuses me to a certain extent.

You often hear/read about what great mechanics farmers were. Most often the old equipment doesn't show a farmer as being a great mechanic. It shows things cobbled together because either the guy didn't know what he was doing (baling wire repairs as such) or just too cheap to fix it right! Heck those old farmers started with horses and mules and then without any training jumped into the mechanical age. Many farms were still using horses until after WWII was over. The 2nd and 3rd generation tractor farmers were not much better because they learned their mechanics from dad or gramps.

I'd guess that there is indeed a problem with the lights that may require rebuilding the originals or replacement. I seldom use a tractor at night but every now and then need them.

I guess that I'd either make a new wiring harness or repair what's there. FWIW I solder and shrink tube all my connections for better long term results especially anything that may be exposed to the weather. I've made complete harnesses for anything from a Ford 8N to one for a Farmall 1206 in the last 5 or 6 year.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 20:25:51 06/04/16) Does it not have the T handle on the right
step plate?

Yes it does. It didn't seem to do anything, though. I crawled under the tractor and learned that it's just a pawl to hold the left brake pedal engaged. So it does work. It's just not shown in the manual that I have and the brake that is shown isn't there, or has a cover plate over the attachment point.
 

Makes sense on cutting and cobbling. As many have said about lights, I doubt I'll use them often, but I want them available in case I need them. The old front lights are completely corroded. The reflector (silvering) has pulled away from the housings, so I've ordered new FORD style lights. LEDs probably are better, but these will be fine for what I need.
 
(quoted from post at 13:43:51 06/05/16)
(quoted from post at 20:25:51 06/04/16) Does it not have the T handle on the right
step plate?

Yes it does. It didn't seem to do anything, though. I crawled under the tractor and learned that it's just a pawl to hold the left brake pedal engaged. So it does work. It's just not shown in the manual that I have and the brake that is shown isn't there, or has a cover plate over the attachment point.

There should be a slide pin on the left brake pedal that can lock the two pedals together so that the T-handle and Pawl mechanism will lock both brake pedals down. That was the only parking brake that the stock US made Ford tractors of that era had. The left side hand brake was stock on the European tractors because several countries over there had stricter regulations back then, and they did offer it as an option on the US made tractors, but not many folks here opted to pay extra for it.
 

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