8N not starting when hot

gbuckler

New User
My 1952 8N, which has been behaving well the last couple of years, has refused to start twice in the last week, both times after running for an hour or more on a pretty warm day. The first time, I tried it again a couple of hours later and it started easily. Today it started easily the first time, cold, then was a little balky when I stopped it a few minutes later to hook up a mower, but did start when I gave it no choke (usually I'd pull the choke out maybe halfway starting after it had run only a short time). I then used it for about an hour and a quarter, during which time it ran nicely, but when I finished and parked it I shut it down and then tried to start it again and couldn't. I haven't tried again - I'd guess it probably would start now that it's cooled off but I would like to fix the problem anyway.

The oil is in the safe operating range according to the dipstick. The first time this happened I checked the radiator and the level was somewhat low, so I thought that might have been the problem, but the fact that it happened again today suggests it wasn't. My guess is it's refusing to start because it's overheated, but I am not sure why it would be overheating or exactly why that is stopping it from starting. Or is it possibly something else? Any suggestions appreciated.
 
when it stops like that when hot , instantly check the coil or condenser. this is a sign of an internal short(break down of insulation within the coil) or the condenser is shorting out when hot.
 
Insufficient information for definitive diagnosis but could be due to weak spark and/or low compression.

Again insufficient information, but, if mine, I would replace the ignition switch before doing anything else.

Dean
 
You say 1952 so it should be a side mount distributor RIGHT??? If yes try this.
#1 when hot check your spark at the center wire on the cap and then the 4 plug wires and make sure you have a good blue/white spark that jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. At ALL the wires.
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you havea good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes.
 
Have you serviced the air cleaner lately?
I had one that acted as you describe, turned out it was
running fine but running rich due to a dirty air cleaner.
When I shut it down it was essentially flooded.
Wait a while and it would start right back up.
Your not having to use the choke reminded me of it.
 
Thanks for the responses. I only just realized I had some - thought I had requested e-mail notification of any responses but never got any. Anyway, the tractor is becoming increasingly hard to start. I did get it going once today but a second attempt later (after it had time to cool) didn't work. I have just changed the oil and put new plugs in it today. So whatever the problem is seems to have got worse - does that suggest anything to anyone?

I will have a look at the air filter. The carb is getting fuel. Can't check anything while hot now unless I can get it to start but I'll follow up as many of these suggestions as I can. Thanks.
 
Can't check anything while hot now unless I can get it to start

You can check spark by pulling a plug wire and holding it near a good clean ground while you turn the starter. It doesn't have to be running to make a spark if the ignition circuit is good. You should get a bright blue/white spark that will jump at least a 1/4" gap to ground. If you don't get a good spark with that test when it is hot then I would suspect, as DGinVT does, that either the coil or condenser is going bad. Once they start going bad the symptoms eventually get worse to where they won't produce a good spark even when cold.
 

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