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5000 No start

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NewLegacy

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1968 5000 with a CAV pump. Tractor had been running fine especially after rewiring and adjusting brakes this winter and resealing the injection pump lasts summer.
Cut hay like a champ on Thursday and did the majority of my raking on Saturday. Midway through raking I shut her down to move a big stick out of the windrow and she wood not restart!
Turns over fine and will throw a couple of revolutions on ether but won't fire off on her own.
Cracked the lines at the injectors and getting fuel there as well as all the connections back.
Played with the pump timing slightly to no avail.
Oil looks good at the dipstick and no condensation under the fill cap.

I'm at a loss to what could be wrong because there was no indication of anything wrong!
I have no idea how to compression check a diesel, or at least this one. How do I check that the nozzles are good?

Any other ideas?
 
Electric or manual shut off?? If electric make sure all is well and not poor connections etc. If manual make sure the cable has not slipped on the mounts and it is moving as it should.
 


Make sure the fuel shutdown cable isn't flexing and not moving shutdown arm forward.
I was thinking a 68 would have the inline Simms pump but it doesn't mater.
My inlaws 5600 doesn't want to start after it's been running for a while in warm weather. I pull the throttle wide open and it will start most times, if not a little hint of either will get it going.
 
Need to know for sure which pump you have, the Simms inline or the CAV DPA rotary. If the DPA you may have the metering valve stuck in the off, no fuel position. Could also be a worn hydraulic head with too much internal leakage when hot, but will start after the pump cools down.
 
Manual shutoff and definitely a CAV. Based on some scribbling in the owners manual motor was replaced at some point, might be a 75 motor? It will run with ether but only as long as the ether lasts. It all also kick over more with the thermostart but just one rev maybe.
Not sure what the hydraulic head is? Like tappets? Maybe the oil pump isn't supplying enough pressure to operate the valves? I figured these motors would have solid tappets? How would I know if it's working correctly? Just by pulling the valve cover and watching the valves while it is cranked?
I'm planning on going through the fuel system from the tank on when I get a chance. Right now I'm borrowing the neighbors db case 855 (?) to finish up: (
 
Manual shutoff and definitely a CAV. Based on some scribbling in the owners manual motor was replaced at some point, might be a 75 motor? It will run with ether but only as long as the ether lasts. It all also kick over more with the thermostart but just one rev maybe.
Not sure what the hydraulic head is? Like tappets? Maybe the oil pump isn't supplying enough pressure to operate the valves? I figured these motors would have solid tappets? How would I know if it's working correctly? Just by pulling the valve cover and watching the valves while it is cranked?
I'm planning on going through the fuel system from the tank on when I get a chance. Right now I'm borrowing the neighbors db case 855 (?) to finish up: (
 
Do not use the thermostart and ether at the same time.

I think that Dieseltech was referring to something inside the injection pump when he mentioned the "hydraulic head", but I don't know a lot about those pump so that's only a guess.
 
(quoted from post at 13:40:43 05/29/16) Do not use the thermostart and ether at the same time.

I think that Dieseltech was referring to something inside the injection pump when he mentioned the "hydraulic head", but I don't know a lot about those pump so that's only a guess.
Click to expand...

Ha, yeah thanks! That'd get sketchy!
 
Shut off cable and throttle rod are working as they should. Pulled the top cover on the pump and made sure that the shutoff arm is actuating the rod inside (it is). Pulled the fuel filter and it was nasty so I'll get a replacement tomorrow when stores are open. Drained the fuel tank and pulled the petcock and screen out and I'll flush the tank.

What's the best way to clean out the injectors? Pull them and use air? Take them some where to have them checked?

In other news, the water pump pulley has a bit of a wobble now, do I get a whole replacement water pump or is there a parts source for individual pieces?
 
Update, pulled the injectors and they are all coked up. The nozzle orifices are barely recognizable. Ordered new injectors and parts to do the water pump so we'll see how that goes.
 
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