10si wiring

For the sake of not reviving the old thread, there are differences between the hundred series 12 volt conversion in terms of the alternator. The number one and two spades are letter labeled different. Is the below picture correct?

Thanks for your help,

Steve

 
I'm not exactly sure what you are asking.

Differences in a hundred series 12v conversion and what?

2 is sense, loops to charge, that looks good. 1 goes to some sort of ignition isolated key-on power source.. Diode, idiot lamp, acct lug, etc.

Have no idea where your wires go so impossible to comment as to if you have it wired correct or not.
 
Soundguy, the question is did I have the spade that gets hooked back to the batt terminal on the alternator correct? The spades have the 1 and 2 designation but the lettering is different than the description in the direction post for the 12 volt conversion. The red wire that leaves the alternator will go to the generator warning light on the dash when I get the socket replaced and then to switched power. The yellow wire goes to the positive battery side of the starter solenoid. This tractor is an 801 gas that had a jumble of wires unhooked and laying together by the starter solenoid so I decided just to rewire it. Saying it was hot wired is an understatement. What will happen if I try to run it without the diode or light before it is wired inline?

Steve
 
"What will happen if I try to run it without the diode or light before it is wired inline? "

It may not shut off when you turn the key off.
Depending on how it is wired and the alternator, etc.
 
I wouldn't put it into use like that. The only reason I would even think about starting it like that is for testing the things I have tried to fix and or worked on to see if the fixes are good. I have parts coming in from this site but you can never tell what is in each box when they ship from all of the different warehouses. As to when the light will be here, it might be here tomorrow or after the holiday. So far I have rebuilt the lift cover, tranny shift cover, PTO shaft and installed new 3 point linkages and check chains. Hopefully the lift works now.

Steve
 
The 1 (R) 2 (F) connections on the alternator are correct. Personally, I would get the plug that goes on the two terminals to prevent confusion in the future when the wires need to be disconnected for troubleshooting or repair
 
confusion between 1 & 2 ?

seems slike one could look to see where the 2" wire loops to the charge stud...
 
The #2 or S (stator) spade was originally hooked to power in the wiring harness to compensate for voltage drop in the wiring. With a tractors small wiring you can just connect it to the battery post on the back of the alternator via a short jumper wire. This wire tells the alternator when the charge is enough and shuts the regulator down as not to over charge the battery.
The #1 or F (field) spade gets hooked to the terminal block with power only with the key on. It energizes the alternator on start up so it will start charging.

That is how the other post read.
 
The "R" is not mentioned and the "F" is on the other number. I just wanted to get an opinion before I burn it up and have to buy another alternator.
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:13 05/26/16) The "R" is not mentioned and the "F" is on the other number. I just wanted to get an opinion before I burn it up and have to buy another alternator.
hat is the source of the paragraph that you quoted. where is picture showing #2 being associated with a different letter?
 

That post leaves alot to be desired for your application. With no ignition isolation, a gasser wouldn't turn off.
 

BINGO

.. if the no lead has no bulb or diode, but is connected, when the key is turned off, the alternator will simply feed voltage back to the system and the engine will continue to run... If engine dies for any reason, the alternator will still keep the coil hot and eventually run down the battery. That lead needs the bulb or diode. If no connection, most alternators will still work, but only after they are reved up really high and then they will self energize and start charging due to an internal resistor. Trouble is.. that on a 8n,, you had to rev it to nearly full rpm, and I hated to rev a cold engine to full rpm just to bring in the charging system... thankfully full rpm was only around 2000 rpm and not 5000 rpm. This bleed resistor means that your car will still charge although the charge bulb is out. But cars tended to turn way more rpm than tractors.
 

If its properly switched no diode are bulb are needed... The OEM switch is the weak link replacement OEM style switches are garbage... Knock it out with a good replacement while you are there and eliminate add on's....
 

You still need ignition isolation from an accy lug at a minimum. The diode, lamp or resistor also protects the alternator regulator circuit by limiting current in that circuit in the case of a open fault in the charge line, otherwise after about 3a, the small traces in the reg module can burn trying to charge thru #1 ( if charge min was open )
 
I'll put a diode in while I wait for the light assembly. Maybe some didn't see where I was confused on the numbers vs. letters. The directions and or schematic I am following are from this site at http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=344550. If the alternator wiring is right by you guys estimation then I'll go with it. I just didn't want to burn up a brand new alternator.

Some of my parts came today but not the gauge kit. When I looked at the order listing it tells me which parts are not included in this shipment. Wouldn't you know it, the light assy. wasn't even on the list. The guy I talked to on the phone didn't put it in the order. Go figure.
 

open fault in the charge line... That would be a rare event I see were you are going... I will add a stink'N diode on the excite accy wire on the next one :cry: Its still gonna be switched :D its just the way I see it best to be done...
 

It is/ should be, however, say you are running around mowing. No diode or light, accy lug to #1 straight. Limb snatches charge wire off alt. #1 will charge, thru accy lug back to battery from key switch wiring. If bat is fully charged and no lamps and just ignition current? The vreg module will probably live and not burn up with only 3)4 amp load on its small printed circuit wiring.. However if lamps are on, or if bat is still charging, after a few of 5+ amps flowing thru #1, the vreg mod will likely give up the ghost. If a back current diode, lamp or resistor was inline with accy, it would prevent /limit current from #1 to key to bat, and you'd simply be discharging the battery, and hopefully alt vreg and #2 line dont let voltage on unloaded charge lug to spike and kill alt.

Admittedly, its an unlikely problem, the charge line coming off , etc.. But its a possibility.
 

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