Ford 4000 PTO wont engage

I have a 1964 ford 4000. I pull out on the coil cable in the conduit and the handle pulls fine but the pto wont engage. In the past it was fine but I always had to put tractor in reverse before the pto would engage. from that point on I would put into drive and increase rpm to desired point and go. Now it wont engage at all. Unhooked from tool or hooked up doesn't make a difference. all the fluids are full to par. What should I do next?
Molly
 
The SOS supplement is an addition to the regular
service manual, specifically dealing with the Select-
O-Speed transmission. It will cover the pto as well.
 


Checking for proper cable adjustment would be the first thing I did. I don't have the SOS service manual to tell you how to do that. You need the see if it's in the manual you have or get one.
 
I believe that the regular 1955-1964 service manual has a section on the S-O-S transmission, but that's just for the earlier Over Running Clutch (ORC) version of the S-O-S, and the design was changed before your 4000 was made to use a Direct Drive Clutch (DDC), and so there is a separate Select-O-Speed transmission supplemental service manual for the DDC transmissions that says on the cover that it is for the 2000 and 4000 series tractors. The adjustment procedures between the ORC and DDC transmissions are similar in how you do them, but different in the actual values for the torques and such..
 
(quoted from post at 13:04:16 05/11/16) I have a 1964 ford 4000. I pull out on the coil cable in the conduit and the handle pulls fine but the pto wont engage. In the past it was fine but I always had to put tractor in reverse before the pto would engage. from that point on I would put into drive and increase rpm to desired point and go. Now it wont engage at all. Unhooked from tool or hooked up doesn't make a difference. all the fluids are full to par. What should I do next?
Molly

That's a really weird scenario. I've never heard of having to shift to a certain gear to make the PTO engage.

Here's what I just posted in another thread with slight amendment for your situation: "That cable is like a big screw! Remove the nut that retains it to the dash (T-handle still connected), unscrew the nut that retains the cable assembly to the transmission cover, loosen the nut that retains the conduit to the handle assy, push the assembly into the dash far enough that you can turn the T handle counterclockwise. With the T handle pulled to and retained in the engaged position, pull the conduit away from the transmission cover as tightly as you can. Then turn the T handle until it forces the conduit tightly against the transmission cover. Reverse the nut tightening process to complete adjustment."
 
Do all 10 forward speeds and both reverse speeds work correctly? The reason that I ask is that your description of having to put it in reverse to get the PTO to engage sounds like some sort of pressure leak inside the control valve such that the pressure isn't getting to the PTO clutch pack except in certain gears, and with a leak like that i would expect more symptoms than just the PTO, like maybe some gears not working or even possibly locking the trans to the point where it kills the engine.
 
No not at all... All gears work fine it takes off immediately but there is a lot of waiting in the clutch the clutch is almost completely released before the tractor takes off almost like its out of adjustment but I am not for sure.
 
the pedal that you call a clutch is actually called the inching pedal. When you press it down it opens a valve that dumps the hydraulic fluid coming into the control valve assembly back to the sump. When you let the pedal up it closes that valve and forces the fluid through the rest of the control valve, which is what controls the pressure to the servos and brake bands that control which gear you're in based on the position of the gear selector handle. You are supposed to be able to feather the pedal right at the point where it is closing the valve so that you can "inch" the tractor along, but most are not smooth enough to truly be able to inch it. Where the pedal is in its travel when the valve closes may be adjustable, but I'm not sure. I have a later 3 cylinder 4000 and my S-O-S is a bit different than yours, and the pedal on mine is not adjustable as far as I am aware.
 
Thank you that explains so much I appreciate the explaination I am mechanically inclined but don't always understand the physiology behind the mechanics. That's greatly appreciated!!
 

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