Value of a Rollbar For Ford 3 Cylinder Tractors

CTPhil

Member
I just bought a 1988 Ford 3910 that came with a rollbar. I'd like to take it off and sell it, but have no idea what it's worth. It's in very good condition.

Any ideas? Thanks!

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Are you in Connecticut as I am guessing
from the ct in your name? I may be
interested depending on price, which I
really don't know what is average I have
seen them listed anywhere from 200 to
500 but have been too far away. I know
about 8 years ago Wenger priced me one
for my Ford 8000 at 400 bucks, they are
considerably larger, yet also a less
popular model.
 
Yes I'm in CT. There is one on eBay right now for $400, but I don't know if that's representative or if he's been sitting on it a while. I don't want to give it away but I'd be fine with anything reasonable.
 
I'd say $400-500 complete with bottom plates and hardware would be fair. Certainly not overpriced at that.
 
Yes I have seen that one in pa on eBay
for a while, we can discuss if you like
my email is markmarkct (at) yahoo.com
does anyone happen to know if these are
same width to bolt up to the older 4
cylinder Ford's? I know the loaders
mounted to the axle a similar width so
wasn't sure if the bars did as well, I
kinda been wanting one for our older
Ford we mow with more than our 3cyl
loader tractor but I suppose be a good
idea on that as well
 
If he wants to mow an orchard or park it in his garage it won't work so good tho. I'm all for rops, especially on things like loader backhoes, but often for general tractor use they have there limitations. Many places I take some of my tractors like in the woods under maple sap mainlines, a rops simply wouldn't let you get the job done. It's a balance indeed and one should consider the risks but had he bought an older tractor this wouldn't even be a conversation of course.
 
True. I've added ROPS to both my remaining tractors. A chainsaw has cured any difficulties related to their installation.

Your mileage may vary.
 
I've never had a tractor with ROPS. I've got too many fields with encroaching edges (mostly not mine) to solve the problem with a chainsaw. I had thought about the bad karma thing, but isn't ROPS a system? It isn't just about having a rollbar, it only really works if you're also wearing a seat belt, right?
 
Since this thread has somewhat evolved to be about safety, I'll go a little further. The tractor I bought has no ballast in the tires, which I have come to the conclusion I don't need for my uses from the standpoint of traction. But what does rear tire ballast contribute to rollover safety on side slopes?
 
They are a relatively low center of
gravity tractor to begin with. To be
honest I think most rollovers with older
Ford's happen from either loader up high
or teetering on the front axle from lack
of rear weight to counterbalance it,or
from pulling from the toplink and
tipping backwards. The biggest reason I
want to add one to our loader tractor is
to mount lights up high for loader work!
Wheels weights or ballast will help, but
really I have seen some tractors like
these pretty steep and never tipped
especially as a bare tractor. Obviously
use good sense but they are not like a
tall farmall or such. Also my loader
backhoe which is often next to large
excavations, on piles, loader lifting
high etc, I would not want to be without
a rops but with my bare tractors I feel
pretty safe 99 percent of the time
 
Thanks for the reply.

Fact is I do feel pretty safe and have always felt that my Fords had a low center of gravity. I also am very wary of side slopes and proceed with an abundance of caution when I have to be on them.
 
Being strapped in is certainly better if you're going to ride one over... but I don't know that I'd say it's absolutely critical to your
survival. If it prevents the tractor from rolling over completely it may well have done it's job and possibly saved a lot of damage to the
tractor at the same time.
My own perspective on roll bars is that I wouldn't probably add them to a tractor that doesn't have them.... but I wouldn't remove them
either unless there was a very compelling reason to do so. Trees on the edge of a field is not a reason to me. I'd either cut the trees or
drive around them. Not big on getting whacked in the head anymore lol.
Not really any of my business but it puzzles me a bit why you would remove them..

Rod
 
Can you post the distance between center of posts?

I am looking to make one for my Farmall H, but would not need to make whole thing if it fit.
 
I'm in eastern CT and would also be interested in this for my 2000 3-cylinder if Mark is not. One thing though, that single reduction rear end looks like a 3610, not a 3910.
 
I'm in eastern CT and would also be interested in this for my 2000 3-cylinder if Mark is not. One thing though, that single reduction rear end looks like a 3610, not a 3910.
 
Yes, I know what you mean, I was expecting inboard wet brakes. But everything else fits for a 3910.
 
Well this has suddenly become a mystery tractor. It has a 2 stage PTO clutch like my 2600. The rear rims are double loop like all of the pictures of 3910's I see, and it has 14.9" tires.

Here are some numbers from the tag under the hood:
Model CA313C
Unit 2J28E

From the bell housing boss:

CA813
2J2 XC69301
 
(quoted from post at 12:05:12 05/13/16) Can you post the distance between center of posts?

I am looking to make one for my Farmall H, but would not need to make whole thing if it fit.
It's 32 1/2" inside to inside.
 
Here's a suggestion.

If that one were mine, I would take it off, make it foldable
and put it back on.

T
 
That type doesn't make a good folding bar because the top pipe is full of ballast (sand) to prevent it from bending in a roll over making it a bit heavy to flip up.

These tractors have a low center of gravity making them pretty stable giving one a since of security, but they're also the ones that get used mowing or working along ditch lines, along side of gully's and on steeper hill sides where roll overs are more likely to happen.
I've lost a couple of neighbors to roll overs over the years.

I have a rigid bar like in the picture to go on my 4500 for moving hay with the farm loader I have for it. I have a folding bar off of a 3930 for my 4000 because it's the one that will be along that ditch line or hill side but some times I need it down to get under stuff. No bar for the 4000SU because it's used inside the poultry barns and limited to 75" height. The 5000 is only used for hay work or tillage and I don't crowd the edges of the field or drainages like I use to.

I've done a lot of work without a roll bar but as I've gotten older that ditch looks a little deeper and the hill side seems a little steeper than when I was young, so since I have the bars I'll put them on but no seat belts just yet.
 
Model CA313C:
CA3 is a 3610, not a 3910
1 is a diesel engine
second 3 is a live PTO
C at the end is an 8 speed transmission.

Unit 2J28E:
September 28, 1982, but the last letter should be an "A", "B", or "C", so it is most likely a B, not an E, which would be the day shift.
 
(quoted from post at 07:52:43 05/15/16) Model CA313C:
CA3 is a 3610, not a 3910
1 is a diesel engine
second 3 is a live PTO
C at the end is an 8 speed transmission.

Unit 2J28E:
September 28, 1982, but the last letter should be an "A", "B", or "C", so it is most likely a B, not an E, which would be the day shift.
Thank you for the info. The tractor must have been in a accident and sheet metal replaced. On close inspection it has been repainted, but not recently. The hour meter shows 4400, which doesn't really match the condition of the paint. I'm crossing my fingers that with good maintenance and the sort of use I will give it (hay work, light loader work) it will work without major issues for some years to come. I do feel that I got a good deal on it for $5500.
 

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