Welding rear housing on NAA any recommendations?

markct

Well-known Member
I have a Ford Naa that I originally
bought cheap for the Sherman
transmission in it. A neighbors son took
an interest in it and got it running, it
had a break in the bottom of the rear
end casting from what likely was a ring
gear bolt punching thru years ago, it
was welded from the outside and then
epoxied, yet still leaks. We took off
the axle trumpet all is good inside now
so want to weld it up good. I'm a
experienced welder but have never welded
any of these housings so just curious if
anyone knows what type material they are
and any recommendations other than usual
preheat etc. I have seem many broke much
worse and welded over the years so
confident it can be done just looking
for any tips or experience before I weld
it up
 
If this is simply a hole knocked in the casting, and not extending to the flange area where the trumpet mounts I would open it up and clean it of oil, then heat the area with a torch several times to burn off any residual oil, then wire brush the inside of the cracked area clean and epoxy it.
 
It does extend to the flange so want to weld it to keep it from flexing. I'm not terribly worried about strength as it isn't stressed really since it runs left to right. It appears the original repair was done years ago and other than leaking has been just fine.
 
Thank you, I was leaning towards using MG 600 which is a rod for tough to weld alloys, dissimilar metals etc but if you have had good success with 7018 I may just use that instead.
 
I do not know what that rear center housing is made of.
I have welded on one Ford. The transmission on a 5000.
It was NOT cast steel.
It was a very good grade of gray cast Iron.
If I was a betting man I would lay odds that your center housing is also CI.
Before I just grabbed some 7018 and put the pork to it I would at the very least do a spark test on it.

Click the link for some youtube videos on spark testing materials.
Here
 
get a rod made for cast iron solvent clean the aream then heat with a torch to burn oil out, then seld it up. I had to weld on my 950 and it's been holding for a few years now.
 
Certainium is the very best cast iron stick welding rod I have ever used. Several years ago it cost over $10 a pound but believe me it is well worth it.

I have fixed broken bulldozier track frames where the pinion gear broke the case around the bearing and they are still running years later.

Since I got to be 80 and shake a little too much and can't see as well as I once could I don't know if I could do it again but that Certainieum is the rod to use.

Zane
 

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