Seat on Ford 4000

JerryS

Well-known Member
I like my 'new' 4000 very well, except for the seat. I guess it's supposed to provide ease and comfort,
but it just doesn't fit me. It's too far forward, and I'm not smart enough to figure out how to adjust
it---if that's even possible.

It rocks back and up, but I was told this was just keep water from soaking the seat in a rain.

There is a vertical bolt with an L-shaped crank/handle, but I can't see what adjusting this would do.
Also, what is the purpose of the horizontal 1-inch tube with crimped ends that protrude on either side
of the seat housing.

Frankly, I think I'd prefer to have an 8N style pan seat if this seat cannot be adjusted to my comfort.

What am I missing here?
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the vertical bolt only adjusts the response to body weight.
You are as far back as can be with that seat.
you will have to build an offset plate to attach the seat farther back
 
I can't tell from your pictures, but you might be able to unbolt the entire seat from the hydraulic top cover and drill a couple of new holes in the bottom bracket of the seat to move it back a little.
 
Those are my favorite seats. And that one has the old style steel torsion spring which rarely goes bad like the newer rubber ones do. Look at the 2 bolts that bolt the seat onto the lift cover. You should be able to move it back a couple of inches there.
I actually went about restoring one of those seats a year or two ago. Used parts from two seats and put new bronze bushings in the suspension to tighten it up. If you decide to replace that seat I would be interested in it. Yes the older seats from the Ns and Hundreds will bolt right onto your tractor if you like them better.
The last photo shows the handle for adjusting the weight setting is missing but I did put it on there later.
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I would just drill two new holes in the bottom to move it 2-3 inches back, and add a spacer if it needed to go up. You can even get longer studs to put in the the hyd. cover if need be.
 
(quoted from post at 09:07:54 03/08/16)
I would just drill two new holes in the bottom to move it 2-3 inches back, and add a spacer if it needed to go up. You can even get longer studs to put in the the hyd. cover if need be.

The rear "stud" is not just a stud. It is a special pin with an unthreaded section at the bottom end that acts as a guide for the draft spring plunger.
 

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