Need help with Steering Box Bearings Ford 650

alegriarick

New User
I recently rebuilt my steering box with as many parts as I could find, but the upper bearing race on the column was well worn, and the new bearings I installed top and bottom, lasted only a few months before they disintegrated. That is to say the cages no longer held the bearing pieces. I am considering switching to Yesterday's Tractor's part number 8N3571-52 which is described as a replacement for the regular steel bearings and races. The description says that it is a neoprene bearing but it looks more like a nylon bushing. Does anybody have any experience with this? It seems to me that it might be a better substitute for the steel bearings if I'm going to have to replace them every few months. The other alternative is to replace the whole steering shaft and nut assembly which is more than I can afford right now. Thanks for the help.
 
might as well shoot yourself in the foot while you are at it. the nylon bearings are junk.

the real problem is you had bad races, and re-used them.. you need to repalce the races, and then reset the shim stack
 
Well that answers that question! I guess I will have to bite the bullet and buy the whole steering shaft assembly. I was just looking at it again and it is pretty badly worn where the inner races are - both lower and upper. Thanks for your expert advice! Sure don't want to shoot myself in the foot.
 
by inner race? do you mean the machined area of the wormshaft that the bearing rides on?

If so, i would see what the price of a weld and grind might cost at a machine shop vs a replacement one. you will need to show the machinist the bearing roller profile too.
 
The maim cause of bearing cage failure is too high of preload on bearings.When setting preload
if you can spin.shaft too lose-hard too turn too tight-turn with soft grip on the money traper
 
(quoted from post at 12:33:38 02/29/16) by inner race? do you mean the machined area of the wormshaft that the bearing rides on?

If so, i would see what the price of a weld and grind might cost at a machine shop vs a replacement one. you will need to show the machinist the bearing roller profile too.

Yes That's right. The replacement bearings I got were barrel shaped. The bottom bearing had some sort of retainer screwed to the end of the shaft the first time I took it apart. None of the part's places I could find had that retainer (which looked like a metal cup just to keep the bearing from getting out of alignment while lowering the shaft into the steering box.) I ended up just dropping the bearing down onto the bottom outer race, then guided the shaft down the hole. I am thinking that perhaps the new shaft is going to be a better alternative for me. The closer I look at it, the worse it looks! 8)
 

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