Ford 640 - 2 Minute Cold Start and Some Clutch help

Hello to everyone!!

First off, When it comes to tractors, I'm a tad wet behind the ears!! We just bought a 20-acre farm that has been let go and overrun by vegetation. Lucky for us, the property came with a tractor and a grip of implements to help kick some vegetation booty!!. The tractor runs, but not as intended...I think

Here are my 2 main issues:

- The colder it is, the longer to start. However, I'm not really sure if that's just the way tractors were built then, or if it can be sped up through adjustments, part cleaning or new parts

- The clutch does nothing. At first, there was no resistance while pressing and releasing the pedal, so I adjusted it to where it felt like it would be proper, but still nothing. As if something in the inside the clutch mechanism froze up.

I'd like to order a few parts to get it going but just not sure on a couple things. Like how to tell what size clutch kit I'll need.

Also, there seem to be 2 service manuals for the Ford 640 available through Yesterdays Tractors. Is one better than the other?

Any help would be super appreciated!

Thanks

I have a 640. I put electronic ignition in it and it starts right up even when it is close to zero. I also converted to 12 volt - every other tractor and truck I have is 12 volt so I didn't want an odd ball 6 volt. Clutch could be rusted to the flywheel. Might have success starting the tractor in gear in an open area and keep stomping on the brakes. Could be another issue also.

Cold starting try the choke, pull it towards the seat. Should be a little round knob to the left of the shifter on top of the transmission. It may be missing or disconnected. I have had success unsticking a clutch by getting the tractor started in first gear, clamp the clutch pedal down, then keep hitting the brakes as the tractor travels across the ground. The clutch may just be wore out also.

It's best not to start purchasing parts until you determine what the problems are. IMHO..

Engines no matter what they are in are just by nature harder to start in cold weather that is just a fact of life.
That said yes some thing maybe able to be done to help them start easier. Making sure you have a good blue/white spark at the center wire on the distributor cap and also at all 4 plug wires if a good place to start.
Then you need to make sure you have a good steady flow of gas to the carb by pulling the carb drain plug and let it flow for 3 minutes. It should fill a pint jar in that time or less.
You also need to check the air clearer and make sure it is not full of mud and water and is full of oil like it should be
As for the clutch you say it does nothing as in you can not get it in gear or when you put it in gear and let up the tractor does not move??
As for parts never buy parts till you know for sure what and where the problem is
Shop manual the I-T FO 20 is a good place to start

Hey, thanks for the replies!!

Well, I was short on time today, but got a chance to try the choke suggestion. Was still a bit sluggish on the start. I will be trying all the suggestions tomorrow morning!!

Questions and additional comments:

- Well, I'm not sure if the brakes are stuck as well. Both brake pedals stick and / or have weak spring back when released. I'll be looking at them tomorrow in further detail.
- The clutch pedal does not engage the clutch. After the tractor is started in neutral and clutch pedal is pressed, it will not go into gear without forcing it, accompanied by the horrible grinding. Then the
tractor just starts going instantly.
- How to start it in first gear?
- Will the 12-volt upgrade help a little with the starting issue?
- And yes, I do not want to buy parts until I know what the issues are and what needs fixing.

I really appreciate all the suggestions!

Of course it's dumping rain and gusting wind today!

Are there digital copies of service manuals available online somewhere? I looked around the Web a bit with no luck, just thought maybe some of you guys might just know. I want a digital copy to go with the hard copy I'll be getting from this site.

Jorje,

I want to make sure of this Ford 640. It should have a live independent PTO. Does it? I don't know how much clutch pedal there is compared other tractors. If it moves 8 inches there should be only about one 1 to 1-1/2 inch movement before you start to feel resistance (someone correct me if I am wrong) Hopefully you adjusted it to this point.

If the clutch does not release with the pedal fully released then the disc is stuck to the pressure plate. It can sometimes be released by pulling the tractor in second or third gear and pressing the pedal several times. Keep the ignition off. Check with everyone else before doing this.

(quoted from post at 21:29:36 02/14/16) Jorje,

I want to make sure of this Ford 640. It should have a live independent PTO. Does it?

Click to expand...

Wow.... I'm not sure of what more to say than just... wow!

A 640 has transmission driven PTO. It is neither Live nor Independent, both of which are entirely different things.

Transmission driven PTO, which the 640 has, is also referred to by some as "non-live". The PTO is directly coupled to the transmission when the handle is engaged, and the single clutch that drives he transmission also drives the PTO, but when you press in the clutch the PTO is still connected to the transmission so a heavy implement that is still spinning can continue to drive the rear wheels forward and can be stronger than the brakes if you are trying to stop the tractor by pushing in the clutch and the brakes, so installing an Over Running Clutch (ORC) is recommended for use with heavy PTO driven implements.

Live PTO is driven by a separate clutch plate than the transmission via a two stage clutch, and the two clutch plates engage at different positions of the pedal. The PTO clutch engages when the pedal is halfway out and the transmission clutch engages when the pedal is all of the way out. The PTO is not directly coupled to the transmission so an ORC is not required.

True independent PTO is completely independent of the clutch pedal and can be engaged at any time regardless of the state of the transmission or clutch. There was a pseudo-independent PTO available for some of the 4 speed models that otherwise had non-live PTO, which consisted of a hydraulically driven clutch at the output of the transmission that would disengage the output of the trans from the rear axle, but that still required the clutch pedal to be out for the PTO to continue to operate. The first true independent PTO was introduced in the "01" series and was only available with the 671/771/871/971 and 681/781/881/981 models that had the Select-O-Speed transmissions.

Sean,
I know what a two stage clutch is and I know what an independent pto is with its own lever. I was searching for a phrase to describe what I read about the 640 pto. As you describe the Ford 640 pto it is nothing more than the pto as on a Farmall Super C and from what I read it was supposed to be something different. Guess I was wrong. The lead iin to the article I read said live pto, but was apparently errant.

The important thing I was trying to establish was whether the transmission had a clutch with one disc or two discs or a separate engaging system. I am unfamiliar with the variations in the ford clutches, and am disappointed to find out this out about the Ford640. Unfortunately the edit function of this forum still does not work and any miswording cannot be edited.