Ford 971 upgrades

So I just got a Ford 971 for a small 40acre piece of land I have a cabin on and relax at. I want to get a 7' brush hog, an auger for some small fencing jobs, a blade and do some small upgrades to the tractor as LED 7" lights and USB/Cig lighter plug-in. I just completed the 12v conversion as well. So my questions are:
1) any recommendations on light duty 7' brush hog?
2) any recommendations on Hydraulic toplink?
3) is the 20amp generator ample to do other LED lighting chores?
4) is there an upgraded generator available?
5) Any upgraded their seat, my factory one is shot.
 
A 6' 3 point rotary mower is about all your tractor will handle.
You might get by with a 7' if you find a pull behind type but you lose the advantage of the 3 point.
Is your tractor a diesel?
The diesels came 12V with a generator.
If you have a gasser what did you convert?
Most of us use a GM 10SI alternator to convert. They come in various amp ratings. I think I used 55 amp when I did them. Plenty of power for any kind of lighting.
A hydraulic top link will set you back about $250 plus if you buy a factory one.
I made my own with a $25 cylinder off Craigslist and sacrificed a screw type top link for the swivel ends.
Any universal seat from TSC or Fleet Farm, etc will direct bolt on your tractor.
They're about $100
Ot look for a used pan seat at a bone yard. Any seat for a Ford from a 9N all the way up to a 3000 will fit.
If you get all those implements and fence materials there will be little relaxing at the cabin :)
Welcome to the Ford board.

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nnalert seats
 
agee with the others.

diesels came with a genny in 12v, gas were 6v. what specifically do you have?

seats? sure.. farm stores carry seats.. many are ford bolt pattern compatable.

7' rought cut mower? dream on.. get a 6' mower.

you ask about led lighting and charge system.. how about you figure your total LOAD and then give us those numbers.

If your total planned load is 15a continois or less, then the stock 12v diesel genny will work. if your continous load is between 15-20a, the genny will work at throttle, but will have a short-er service life.

I'd go alternator for any planned constant loads over 15a on the stock diesel 12v gen.
 
It's a diesel and all factory still. So all
the parts I just ordered for the 12v
conversion aren't needed, perfect. Can I
have my 3 hours of research time back. In
all seriousness thank you for telling me
this.

Generator is the stock ford one as far as I
can tell. What is its amperage? I just want
to replace the headlights with 51w LEDs, one
front, one rear. I won't be using them much
just driveway snow clearing. I have read the
factory generator is 40amp, true?

Ok 6 foot brush hog why so? I know the rule
of thumb is 5hp per foot 6x5 is 30hp, isn't
the diesel 46hp at pto. Why can't the
tractor handle a 7 foot brush hog.

I don't have a welder so I'm going to have
to order the hydraulic toplink.

My fields are mostly flat with mild brush,
briars and tall weeds. Is the hydraulic
toplink going to allow me to float the 3pt
brush hog?
 
20amperes (300Watts).
"Float"? Hyd won't allow you to do any more with your brush hog than manual link will do....just easier/less human effort.
 
I have a 4000 SOS RC which is about the same as your 971. I have an aftermarket seat with arm rests. What I don't like about the
seat is it makes you sit up higher than the original. it is harder to reach the 3pt lever as I have to bend over the arm rest to
reach the levers.

I see no reason for a hydraulic top link on a 971.

You better rethink your 7ft mower down to a 6ft.
 
Are you saying the higher seat would be reason to not replace the stock seat? I understand the higher seat being problematic in that respect.

I'm not opposed to a 6ft brush hog, it'll actually be cheaper, I'm just wondering if the recommendation is based on opinion or experience.
 
There are folks on this board that have decades of experience with vintage Ford tractors, myself included.

Trust me, you do not want to use anything larger than a 6' rotary cutter with your 971 unless it is a very light 7' cutter, your ground is flat, and the conditions are IDEAL.

Dean
 
Your 971 diesel is rated at approximately 41 PTO HP.

The tractor is not heavy enough for a 7' rotary cutter unless it is a very light (cheap) unit and your ground is flat.

I've been using rotary cutters with vintage Ford tractors of various models for 40+ years, and a 7' rotary cutter is too much for a 971 in anything but ABSOLUTELY IDEAL conditions.

Get a 6' cutter.

Dean
 
I believe that the OEM generator will charge at about 20 amps at 1800 engine RPM of so. It should be adequate for just about any LED lamps that you use to replace the OEM headlamps.

A hydraulic top link is not needed to operate a rotary cutter but is very helpful when using a box blade or slip scoop. I have one and would not want to be without it for such implements.

A rotary cutter will follow the contour of the ground with a standard steel top link because the hydraulic lift system does not hold the lift arms down. Moreover, modern rotary cutters have top three point attachments that allow a certain amount of freedom of movement when the rear of the mower is raised as when you drive down into a ditch or such. If you want complete "float" replace the fixed top link with a length of chain.

Dean
 
Is the hydraulic toplink going to allow me to float the 3pt
brush hog?

The 3 point lift is power up and gravity down, so a brush hog with a tail wheel will follow the ground whether you have a manual adjust toplink or a hydraulic one.
 
The reason we suggest a 6' mower in a 3 point type is because even a light duty one is fairly heavy. 1000 lbs or there abouts.
A 6' is going to hang a looong way off the back end - like most of 8' when you include the tail wheel.
A 7' will hang out there most of 9'
Makes the mower wag the dog. ie, a lot to heft around back there.
If you are a fairly tall fellow - 6' plus - the aftermarket seat might work for you. If you are shorter than that then you will likely think it's inconvienient to adjust the lift handle
from one. The original pan seat isn't the best but if you add a padded seat cover to it they are fairly comfortable.
Yes at least $250+ for a hydraulic top link. Even if you can't weld yourself you might consider buying a used cylinder and top link and have a welding shop do it.
Should be able to get it done for $50 or so. Your money your call.
I have had the hyd top link in the photos for about 5 years. I do like it a lot - would cry to have to go back to a manual style.
My rotary cutter has a solid link going to the back end for lifting. I let the tail wheel carry much of the weight of the mower. Hyd top link lets me make fine adjustments there
on the fly. It's also Way nice for plowing discing, back blading and rear scoop. And almost a must have if using a boom pole. I can get an extra 3' of lift with the push of a
handle over a manual type.

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My recommendations on a seat would be to get a Rest O Ride seat, they were used on many models as options, have an adjustable tension and much more comfortable than the original spring seat. You can add a pad to the metal pan if you want.
 
Thank you everyone a 6 foot rotary mower is
what I'll be getting. I actually called on
a used one today for a fair price. I'll get
everything hooked up and get some photos
posted.

Switches, anyone placed some switches on the
901 series that looks decent and is
functional? I want to put one small light on
the rear.

How about a brake light setup anyone doNE
that? Ok that will likely be over kill but
my driveway, private drive, but still is
about 1 MiLe long.

I'm looking at a standard urethane seat with
bracket for replacement.
 

You know LED uses a lot less wattage than similar brightness incandescent or halogen? If you are replacing a 50 watt bulb, with an LED that is marked "comparable to 50 watt," it probably isn't even close to 50 watts. That is why you need to have the engineering specs off the fixture. That will tell you how to build the proper circuit for what you are going to power.

Now, me personally, I like to deal with waytek for electrical components, and buy things from spec. I like the new waterproof rocker style switches that you find on the new side by sides and tractors. They have backlit switches to make them easy to find in the dark.

waytek wire

IF it were me doing this upgrade of lighting, I would build a lighting controller, or at the least, install a waterproof fuse/relay box, or generic waterproof junction box, and make all the lighting circuits have low voltage switches with relays, and make sure there is circuit breaker protection for each direction of light (forward lights, rearward lights each have their own circuit breaker protection). I'd be cautious of buying those cheap india/china push/pull switches from your local autoparts and doing it that way. If you want to use the stock light switch, I am sure it is still available, but since this is 2016, and you plan on using the tractor in all weather conditions, it would be a good idea to upgrade the electrical system to something that is a bit more rugged like the Carling rocker switches. I leave those outside for 10 years in all weather, pressure wash right over them, get them covered in mud... no problems. That is why they use them on side-by-sides and other toys. I know a lot of people frown on having blade type, or mini blade fuse boxes on their old tractors, but, you got to do what is safe, easy, and reliable.

It's up to you.
 
I completely agree on the switch via fused and relay connections. I've built some automotive electric systems before and relays always seem to give me the best results.
That is a good link for switches. I was going to use some similar switches on amazon that I was going to buy.

The 7 inch leds headlights are 51w per and scary bright hence why just one up front and one rear. ]
 

Good deal. 51 watts/13.5 volts = 3.7 amps. That's a very modest circuit. Might as well put 2 forward facing lights, so that the tractor shadow doesn't create blind spots. I like setting the lights back so that you get a good amount of side lighting. The tractor companies brag about 360 degree "stadium lighting" on the new rigs. When you drive a new one with lights like that, you never want to go back to the blind spots. Lots of people who first get into tractors tend to think more about automotive lighting, with beams in front, highlighting 50-100 feet ahead. On a tractor, 100 feet ahead could take you a long time to get there. Being able to see the ground directly below, just ahead, and also around the front wheels is a lot more helpful. This is especially true plowing snow, when you know you are going to come close to obstacles. Having 2 rear lights, mounted inside the fenders and pointing to the opposite side of the tractor is ideal to eliminate shadow blind spots.

At 4 amps per fixture, how can you go wrong? Of course, since I'm not the one buying all the parts, it's easy for me to expand your project!
 
Good input. Are you saying on the rear lights to have them cross beams? Meaning the light on the left shines to the right and the right to the left? I can get some smaller 4inch leds to do that. I do agree on the lighting that I don't need automotive lighting as in distance but more flood lighting. My plan is to put the 7 inch leds where the factory lights were and pointing them downward.

I'm now struggling on switch placement and circuit/relay placement. I don't need it to be the most beautiful but I get somewhat ocd on it being hidden and being somewhat factory looking. That is my struggle with switches, there really isn't a good spot that I can decide on for rocker waterproof switches.

I got a lead on a 6 ft cutter that's an older brush hog brand. I'm going to go look at it and try to figure out weight based on what yall suggested. What weight should I look to stay under?

Shear pin is what was factory on this pto right? Should I consider a slip clutch pto conversion?
 

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