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This might be sporty!!

E

Ed Douglas

Member
Went to tighten up the seat on the 231....it were wiggling around a bit....found no bolt in rear of plate....easy right....run to barn...get requisite bolt.....won't go in to the the trans
housing....remove seat plate and discover someone broke an extractor off in an attempted repair......so?????....aside from purchasing a carbide tipped bit....any tips??....never been here
on this issue......any advise on bits?....brands?....tips?.....or magic spells or incantations would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks Chums!!
 
Heat the extractor and cool slowly to soften it, drill with a cobalt center drill, much stouter than a regular drill bit, steady pressure, use drill press if you have one, just had to do simular last week
 
That rear seat "bolt" is not a bolt, and it actually serves two purposes. Besides being the place to mount the seat, it is also the anchor pin for the draft plunger on the 3 point lift. If you disconnect the toplink and unscrew the yoke on the end of the plunger (shaft that goes trough the spring) a bit, it will take the tension off of that pin and it will be easier to get out, also easier to line things up correctly to put the new pin in, don't use bolt, get the proper pin, current part number 81837083. The front one's just a regular stud, but that rear one has a non-threaded pin on the end down inside that holds the front of the draft plunger in place.
 
I have had a lot of luck removing broken bolts by putting a washer over what is left of the bolt and welding to it. you can then weld a nut over that. I don't know if this will work in your application or not. If you can get the pressure off of it like Sean said it might work
 
I did not know that Sean....many thanks.....the extractor is broken off cleanly and flush......can I remove the top Lift housing and get at the plunger pin from the other side?....how far
down does the pin protrude on the underside??
a212719.jpg
 
I don't think you can just push it out from the underside. It is like a stud in that it threads into the top cover, but it has an unthreaded extension on the end that is the anchor pin for the plunger. I've never looked at it from below. When I went to replace the seat on my '73 4000 the nut was rusted to the threads of the pin and when I unscrewed the nut the entire pin came out and the plunger shifted so I couldn't get it back in until I did some research and found out that I needed to loosen the yoke to get things lined up again.

If you loosen the yoke and take the stress off of it, you might be able to grind a slot in the top of it and use a flat bladed screwdriver to get it out. Or drilling it out with a cobalt center drill as markct suggested so you can get a new extractor into it, as long as you've taken the stress off of it by loosening the yoke it should come out easily, but it will need to be unscrewed, it won't just slide out.
 
Ya know Sean....think I might just leave it be for now....I could just take off the top nut by the spring ....weld a bracket to the seat base.....insert a longer bolt to make up for the width of
the bracket.....you've been back here...what do you think??
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:52 01/27/16) Ya know Sean....think I might just leave it be for now....I could just take off the top nut by the spring ....weld a bracket to the seat base.....insert a longer bolt to make up for the width of
the bracket.....you've been back here...what do you think??
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I understand "top nut by the spring". You could fabricate an extension for the base plate of the seat to go to any of a number of different nuts or bolts back there. To me that would be more work than it's worth if you can get the original pin out.
 
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