Box Blade Teeth Wear

ml_work

Member
I am calling them teeth, I think everyone knows what I am speaking of and please correct me with the correct name.
This is new box blade we purchased to drag the road. It is red dirt with some rocks mixed in. One of the teeth will not let down, the pin comes out where the bar is connect the BB and the weld comes over to the hole. I feel sure I can grind it down (only need very little) to where the pin can come out and adjust the height. But since it could not I just left it in the same place when I lowered the others. Then at end of day Saturday I noticed the difference in it and the others that had be lowered down all the way. They wore a good bit, if you look at the back you can see the tooth is now even with the "bar" that it is attached to. These have what looks like a pin holding them to the bar, so I am guessing they are replaceable ?
If I do not replace them will it eat away the bar it is attached to or is it a harder steel. This seems to be really fast wear to me. I have maybe 25 hours on them... is this normal wear?
the pictures have a shadow but I think you can see what I am talking about.
Thanks
Michael
mvphoto28091.jpg


mvphoto28092.jpg
 
That's not wear. Rather the welded-on wearing surfaces on the rippers have come off due, most likely, to poor workmanship during manufacturing.

Yes, the rippers are replaceable. That said, I would not expect to be able to buy replacements long into the future.

Dean
 
Ok, Rippers sounds better.....
Sunbeam, I do not have easy access to welding and as new as the BB is I would not think I should have to.

Dean, are you saying the small point at the end that has worn is poor work from factory? If this is not normal I will go back to Tractor Supply and ask about replacement under warranty... You say they are replaceable, do you mean the entire ripper or can I get just the tip ? and why would you think they will not be available in the future?

Thanks
Michael
 
Cannot determine from the photo but the rippers on my box blade (different brand) have replaceable, welded-on wearing elements made from harder steel.

The ripper assemblies, of course, are available as service parts. Who knows about the wear plates.

Dean
 
as others have said, there are replaceable tips that dimple on the ripper shanks.

however you can also weld on wear bars.. which is wht I would do at this point before that cap wears thru.

most likely the original ones were soft 'chit' recycled steel with no, or poorly managed heat treat.

cut some bar stock and weld on.. .. hard face the tip and perhaps cross hatch it a bit.. you can ask your welding supplier for something to hard face with.
 
Such things are usually dropped from the sevice parts system shortly after the next design change. Usually, sooner if the company goes out of business or is acquired by another.

Dean
 
That's some excess wear in a short time. Sounds like a metallurgy or hardening problem.

The shank is what is attached to the tubular steel toolbar or frame above, pinned in place, and it sounds like you have multiple holes to allow for depth changes.

The shank will not likely be hardened, as the ground engaging part is the replaceable tooth fastened to the shank. It could be, but given what TSC sells, its hard to imagine it is, and this is basically a scarifier, its not for deep ripping. Just like a plow frog, to avoid damage or wear to it, you must replace the wear parts in advance of them wearing into the frog, or in this case the shank.

There are a lot of things that use teeth similar to this, if the TSC parts do not perform, I would suggest finding another supplier of the teeth, its possible something could cross reference. Backhoe/excavator buckets, front buckets of loaders, crawler rippers and scarifiers, grader scarifiers all use these replaceable wear teeth. There are also frost teeth, so amongst whats out there, you may find something or something close that you can fit or fit with some modification to the shank. If they wear like the photos show, you will have to do something, that is beyond excess, and seems mild steel would hold up longer, something is awry with those teeth.

Instead of fooling with obviously inferior parts from TSC, for what this implement does, I don't see it that difficult to determine what it would take to fit a known quality tooth to those shanks, with all the small backhoe buckets out there, there must be something close in size that you could mock up and determine what needs to be done to make a good fit. You have to remember, this is not a Gannon quality box blade, its TSC's current shortline, given what you describe, its not very impressive, as its meant for just what you are doing, scarifying/loosening hard packed material for re-grading.

I've run much larger equipment, in the earthmoving business and it takes some really hard rock to wear or break teeth on shanks, we routinely ripped decayed layers of rock or different types of shale and got decent life out of the teeth. Frost was never much of an issue and its similar to hard packed road wear surfaces. You could tell when it was time to drill and blast when the teeth of those shanks would break the pins and come off, same principle, but a lot more force and weight involved.

With a little research, it appears TSC will only sell shanks with crimp/weld on teeth. It looks like that these shanks are of that type, crimp on. Maybe they are 3/4" and agrisupply replacement teeth will fit, there has to be something. TSC moldboard plows are built to take Ford,( or what was manufactured for Ford, branded Ford) general purpose wear parts, they are commonly available, so although they don't, (typical of TSC) sell replacement teeth, its fair to assume there is a commonly available replacement tooth, like the plow. If they made this implement to have proprietary replacement teeth, don't offer them, they wear like your photos show,(assuming its been used properly) then they just want your money for the whole shank assembly, thats pathetic in my opinion.

I 'll post some helpful links in a seperate post, don't know how to do that in modern view, which I used to add this last paragraph.
 
Oh, I get it. Well, the TSC implements come from Tarter Industries. I don't think they're going anywhere anytime soon.
 
(quoted from post at 10:28:58 09/23/15) That's not wear. Rather the welded-on wearing surfaces on the rippers have come off due, most likely, to poor workmanship during manufacturing.

Yes, the rippers are replaceable. That said, I would not expect to be able to buy replacements long into the future.

Dean

agree with Dean, looks like the 3 had something ripped off.
The 3 'worn' wouldn't wear like that...they are still rounded, wear would be flatter on the leading edge.
Another possibility....
with the one ripper up, you might not have noticed it was different than the other 3.
assembly error at the factory.(or at TSC)
Wouldn't concern me either way as I was loading it up to take it back to the store.
(I have an old Howse, ancient when I got it.....you could rip the arms right off the tractor before you could hurt it. Box blades old or new need to be tough. take it back)
 
Rippers and Shanks, I know the names now, sounds better than teeth.
Billy, thanks for the in-depth answer, some good information in there and your research to find the links, super. I assume the replacement rippers from Air Gas are better quality than what came with the BB ? I know this is not a "heavy" duty industrial BB, but it was heavier than some. We do have a JD place here but figured I would be paying for the name. This BB seemed to be enough for what I will be doing a few times a year and I figured should last my life time. I live in a small town but I think we have an Air Gas, I know we have a place to get bottle gas and I think it was bought out a few years ago by AG. The BB has CountyLine on the end of it. I had read reviews on their site, 13 of 14 were very pleased. I will talk with TS first and see what they say. If they agree it should not have worn down this fast and replace great. If not I will get the ones at AG. This is a 6' Box with 6 Rippers, the picture does not show that. I would not have noticed the wear if it had not been for the one that would not let down. (NoNewParts) I don't think it necessary to return the entire BB, mainly I have no why to take it other than drive the tractor back to town. But I think everyone agrees this is defect in the material. I will say the road had not bee worked in years and was like concrete hard.
Thanks to Everyone for your time and Help!
Michael
 
Billy NY I ordered the rippers you gave the link to.
My mistake of the name of the place, I replied as if it were Air Gas, I realize that was not correct, it is Agri Supply. I ordered the rippers from there. I called and talked to Sales just to make sure that they would work with my BB, they said yes. When I got them in they do not have the same holes to use for crimping them on. You see in the picture of the new ripper I am pointing to the small indent that may be for crimping. The old ripper has 1 hole on one said and 2 holes on the other side, so I don't think these are the same. but should work..right? We do have a machine shop that I was going to see if they could crimp the new ones on. But the article in the link you gave sounds like the weld is the better way and with the small indent on the new, I am thinking of doing the weld. I ask a friend of my Dad's that use to weld and has access to welder if he could do it. He said sure, but ask what type or gauge welding rods would he need. Any advice of what rods needed?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 19:37:49 09/23/15)
(quoted from post at 10:28:58 09/23/15) That's not wear. Rather the welded-on wearing surfaces on the rippers have come off due, most likely, to poor workmanship during manufacturing.

Yes, the rippers are replaceable. That said, I would not expect to be able to buy replacements long into the future.

Dean

agree with Dean, looks like the 3 had something ripped off.
The 3 'worn' wouldn't wear like that...they are still rounded, wear would be flatter on the leading edge.

I think you and Dean are both wrong on this one! It looks like wear on the replaceable ripper points to me! They are still attached to the shanks. Furthermore, any ripper points I've seen wear, have worn rounded and not straight across.
 
(quoted from post at 21:00:43 12/03/15) Here are the pictures
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You would think the machine that could crimp that would be similar to a punch, but set to crimp, instead of punch. Your machinist/shop would know more, depending on what they have. This is something I am not familiar with, but the punch is, for mild steel. As far as fit, are the original wear teeth snug and stiff to the shank or is their some play? It is hard to see where that would matter, hit something firm like a rock, it has some play, but it can't be much and once it moves to abut the shank, its going to be stiff as if its all one piece. Seems to the purpose of the crimp is to hold it in place when out of the ground. In the ground its going to have force applied and should not be able to come off under normal conditions, no rocks, heavy roots or other similar obstruction. Conceivably, like ripper teeth on crawlers, those can be torn off, if the pin is sheared.

I wonder if you could dimple these yourself, and are the shanks dimpled to a matching pattern, or is the steel malleable (mild steel) enough to do that when enough force is applied through the new wear teeth ?

If you think you will be using this implement enough to wear the teeth enough that you will replace them more often, see if your machinist can crimp them to the shank. I am wondering what is needed to remove them, seems some kind of force or blow from the top side of them, or you just burn a slit or something near the crimp with a cutting torch.

I don't see why one could not drill these and use substantial enough fasteners to pin them on, laying out the fastener(s) in a hole pattern that is appropriate for the application, and will one suffice, giving some play or is 2 necessary would be my only question. This requires more labor.

Welding them on will be simple enough, 7018 electrode, 1/8", stitched twice on each side, don't see a need for more weld than that, given the tensile strength of 7018. When they need replacement again, burn off the welds and repeat. However, my question would be how many times can you do that on the shank in the same location, and the question would be based on the fact that steel can become brittle with all the heat from both processes.

Don't mind me, just overthinking the possibilities above !

Given new shanks and teeth are commonly available paired up, the cost of some of the above, labor too..... I think welding would be the easiest/simple solution, and should allow you at least one or 2 chances to repeat the same method to replace on the existing shanks, which should provide adequate service life each time.
 
Thanks Billy,
I do not feel any play in the existing rippers that you see in the picture. I thought about trying to remove one with a screw driver and hammer just to see how hard it will be to get off. Without a vice to hold the shank I don't think I will have much of a chance.

Copied and Paste from the link you gave me:
***********************************************
Joel, I have bought dozens of those kind of teeth from AgriSupply. Some are made in China, some are from India. I weld them on to the shanks for box scrapers and my custom-made shanks. For the BBs, the crimped-on teeth often come off and get lost. I do not weld all the way around, just each side behind the crimp hole. That way, if the tooth breaks, there
are only two cuts to be made with your grinder to remove the old tooth.
*************************************************

Sounds like they just did a spot weld on each side, to keep it easy to remove and less damage to the shank. Just as you were saying. The shank and ripper combo are about $15.00 each. So if I can replace the rippers 2 times before the shank is too brittle or damaged, that will not be too bad. I am hoping that these rippers will out last the original ones for many more uses.
I may check at the machine shop for crimping, but the weld would be no charge from my Dad's friend. I will pay whatever the rods cost. Thanks for the info about the rods too.

Thanks
 


I see two different type of teeth on the ripper shanks... one is long the others are short. Why do you have two different types???
 
Looks like the tooth came completely off. Look at the top of the good one. No way you could have worn the top off of the other one.
 

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