1965 Ford 4400 Diesel Fuel Filters

twb1960

New User
1965 Ford 4400 3 cylinder diesel. This story started when I replaced the fuel tank due to the bottom of the original tank springing several leaks all at once. New aftermarket tank installed plus new tank petcock/shut off valve. Noticed a flexible automotive looking line from old tank valve to fuel filter housing was crumbling so replace with new fuel line. Noticed hose barb on dual fuel filter housing was not straight, removed it and found a previous owner had installed a hose barb with pipe threads instead of tubing threads. I found a used single fuel filter housing in a salvage yard. Any reason I need the dual filters? Now I have mounted the single and got it plumbed up. The outlet from the fuel filter is connected to the side of the simms injection pump, while the other line from the rear end top of the injection pump goes back to the filter housing. I suppose that one is for excess to recirculate correct?? I used the filter housing bleed valve and cranked the engine some, but no start. I guess I will need to have the wife crank while I open the bleed valve on the side of the pump, then when air bubbles are purged, loosen injector lines. All this purging done with fuel shut off pulled out correct?? Seems there would be a better way to purge the air without so much cranking. Could someone confirm the points with 2 question marks. Thanks for the help. By the way, the old tractor has never hesitated to start right up since I have had it for about 5 years now.
 

I once owned a Ford 3000 that when I got tired & aggravated from bleeding the air out of it I'd a chain & tow it. Usually pulled it less than 10 ft and it would start. Tractor ran out of fuel often because my employee wouldn't check amount in tank. You can open bleeder on IP and turn engine over without bothering your wife. As Bob stated be sure fuel shut off is "on" and have throttle lever at least 1/2 open or more.
 
I don't see near as many Simms pumps as compared to CAV, but as I recall, the fuel supply from the tank goes to the primer pump
first, then to filter base inlet. From filter outlet to the back of the fuel passage at the top of the injection pump. The
return/excess/overflow exits at the front of said fuel passage, connects to the injector overflow circuit and then flows back to
tank. I doubt the direction of flow through the pump is critical, as long as the inlet and outlet are on opposite ends.
As for bleeding, the entire system(except for the high pressure lines) can be bled with the hand primer, leaving only the
injectors to bleed by cranking the engine.
 
Success thanks to your input. I found a split fuel line, cut off the split part and made another flex line a little longer and reconnected it to the line I had shortened with 2 clamps since I had lost my barb. I then confirmed the filter housing bleeder was producing fuel, then cracked open the bleeder valve on the side of the injector pump and cranked it some; could see fuel so I tighten the pump bleed screw. I cranked a little after then, but decided to loosen the line nuts at the injectors. I could stand and lean over from the drivers position while turning the key and see when the pulsing fuel started coming out. I retighten the injector lines. Charged the battery for a while. When I went back it turned over a few times and it started up. I let it run for about 10 minutes, checked for leaks, then shut down and restarted. Remember this started when I had to replace the fuel tank and then found a problem with the original fuel filter housing. All is good now. Thanks again.
 

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