851 oil tube through trans

Has anyone removed, replaced or repaired the hydraulic oil pressure tube that runs through the length of the transmission? I'm working with one that the tube has rusted through and is leaking oil inside the flywheel housing. I've removed the trans and attempted driving the tube out from the rear(even have the original Ford/Nuday special tool NCA945A) but it's not moving at all, and seems to be compressing the end I'm driving on. Thought I'd better stop before doing unrepairable damage and research this a bit. Any thoughts on cutting out and splicing in the section of tubing through the flywheel housing area...maybe using a hydraulic compression fitting (union)?? I'm open to, and grateful for, any ideas.

Someone, Hobo,NC maybe, fixed them by inserting a slightly
smaller diameter tube inside the original.

Sure wish you had came here and asked first.

Remove the hyd manifold that runs from the case to the pump. I used a 7/16 X 20 tap and threaded the front end of the tube. Screwed in a piece of all thread rod. Slipped a 1/2 X 2 pipe nipple over it, a couple of washers and threaded the nut on. As you tighten the nut it will pull into the nipple. It was just going to be tight for about 3/4 of an inch and then be free but since you buggered up the other end you may have to pull it all the way. Some of the guy's use a slide hammer instead of the nipple. You'll have to make the tube. Mcmasters has it cheap but you'll need to turn it down in a lathe. There are three steps in the tube. Search this forum and you'll find the instructions and measurements.

Too late for that.

Dean

No.

You will need to replace the tube.

Follow M-Man's recommendation below, though it may not now work since the tube has probably been mushroomed.

IIRC, someone is custom making replacement tubes to replace yours once it is removed. Sorry, but I cannot remember who is doing this.

Once finished, I would be interested in buying your Nuday tool if you want to sell it.

Dean

Thanks for the responses, guys. Either method mentioned (pulling the tube as opposed to driving it, or installing smaller tube) is still viable and it's not too late for anything. I've been a service tech for 40 years so I have enough sense to know when to stop before causing irreparable harm. It only took about 15-20 minutes to separate the trans from the rear center housing from the point it was at so I'm not out much time from that regard, and now I can clean some pretty nasty sediment out of the floor of the hydraulic section while I'm there.
We have a lot of the original Ford & Nuday special tools for the Ford tractors, but none are for sale...sorry Dean.
Thanks again! Definitely have a direction to go now.

This is the only one I have fixed John Smith bailed me out with a good tube.... I was gonna say not to drive it out the back BUT once you drive it a inch are so the back end is the smaller end it should come out...

I would not insert a smaller tube as a fix I would replace the tube no matter what it cost...

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=893860&highlight=tube

is it just me... but this tube should not have access to the dry area of the flywheel bellhousing. this tube is lower right of trans.... input shaft seal could leak into the trans.. of course a leaky tube could be overfilling the trans and causing the leak.. etc.

That is exactly what has happened to my Ford 2000 (1964) the oil gushes out from the shift lever on top of the transmission. Of course the original symptom was a failing hydraulic lift.

This company has the replacement tubes for around 70 dollars ea and offers some help Walts Tractors 888-414-4043

I have not done mine yet but when springtime comes I will tackle it. Let me know how yours works out. One thing, I am glad to learn about the tap method. What a great idea.
One thing, when you separated the hydraulic casting from the transmission did you have to disconnect the line inside the hyd transmission? Did you have to actually remove the gear transmission?

(quoted from post at 19:53:19 11/30/15) is it just me... but this tube should not have access to the dry area of the flywheel bellhousing. this tube is lower right of trans.... input shaft seal could leak into the trans.. of course a leaky tube could be overfilling the trans and causing the leak.. etc.

Click to expand...

The hydraulic tubes are exposed in both the dry bellhousing and wet gear case area on the 4 and 5 speed transmissions.



.

$70 for a $12 tube that won't fit :shock: The info is in my link...

About 3/4 years ago I called Walts their tube is just a straight tube and will need machine work to fit,,, They did not want to tell me that.

Update: Pulled the tube out by threading the tube as some of you had described. Came out of the housing just fine. Left it up to the boss where to source the tube from. Ordered the $$$ tube from Walt's, and it arrived today. Although it's quite pricey, it's a perfect fit. Measured the three important areas on the tube and every one came out to exactly .001" larger than the original tube I pulled out. It drove into the housing just fine with a nice tight fit, but not so tight as to cause the end of the tube to mushroom out. So far, so good. Filled the trans with oil and no leakage around the tube at this point. Next test will be when I get it running and pressurize the thing.

(quoted from post at 08:24:52 12/04/15) Update: Pulled the tube out by threading the tube as some of you had described. Came out of the housing just fine. Left it up to the boss where to source the tube from. Ordered the $$$ tube from Walt's, and it arrived today. Although it's quite pricey, it's a perfect fit. Measured the three important areas on the tube and every one came out to exactly .001" larger than the original tube I pulled out. It drove into the housing just fine with a nice tight fit, but not so tight as to cause the end of the tube to mushroom out. So far, so good. Filled the trans with oil and no leakage around the tube at this point. Next test will be when I get it running and pressurize the thing.

Click to expand...

That was not the case when I called them... If its the case now that was a deal if you consider the machine work and time it took to make it fit...

I pulled the hydraulic line on my Ford 2000 4 cyl gas yesterday. It worked just as stated above and it really was quite easy. I broke about an inch off the line when pulling it out but I just taped the line some more and it came out.

If you want to see a video go here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idxFS1xPqoM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p1CAJrT_DY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBFs0tlKPzk

I did not see anything obvious brokien or open on the line but it is made from seemed tubing and I suspect the line compromised under pressure and maybe opened. Also there was some pitting but it did not appear to be from rust but rather corrosion or maybe a mfg defect. Here is picture of the line out of the tractor. Note that it is not a taper but rather stepped. I have a Smithy and I can turn simple steps but not a taper so maybe I will try to make my own.

Here are some pictures of the line:

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/iamgloria2/7-26-2012/tube2_zps96nmxrd7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tube2_zps96nmxrd7.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/iamgloria2/7-26-2012/tube_zpskjeacne0.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tube_zpskjeacne0.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/iamgloria2/7-26-2012/tube23_zpsu2zsxljn.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tube23_zpsu2zsxljn.jpg"/></a>

Your Smithy will do just fine. I turned mine on a Micro Mark. Took me a little while but they turned out nice. If I had it to do over I would order the thickest tubing from McMasters instead of the next size under. Heat expands the tubing as you're turning so you have to let it sit a few hours to stabilize before the final pass. Check it with the caliper as you turn and you'll see what I mean.

M man, thanks to you and everyone else on here. Although I have the line out I am a little concerned about my ability to make a new one. Thanks for the vote of confidence and suggestions. Did you have any trouble driving in the new one? I think I will turn a shoulder pin made of brass to hammer mine back in.