It's going to do that anyways, rear blades are nice, handy for a lot of things, but they are not bulldozer blades. No down pressure, so it will ride up or possibly catch on something. In my opinion, and from experience of using one to clear snow, once the resistance becomes too much, it rides up the bank etc. its time to stop pushing.
I'm also cognizant of shock loads, whether that is plausible for concern about 3 point/hydraulic component damage, specifically the draft control, its hard to say, but good to be aware of and it is wise to go easy with these, even if its of heavy duty materials. I think the one we have at the stable, old, heavy, is 8'. I can't even begin to figure it out, but having worked there somewhat regularly for years, then on/off, during a snow event, the 3 pt blower was down, so I tried to hook up this rear blade, but someone had really done some damage to it, even bent the thick mold board too. Amazing, and all that shock load went to the tractor it was used on. I used it for a couple of seasons for clearing snow, never an issue with it. I would use the loader to dress up the banks and where down pressure was needed. Open station, looking back quite a bit or turned to the side, this combination was not that bad for short durations, but one thing remains clear, don't wait to clear in longer snow events, better to knock it down every so often.
I just got a really nice rear blade, Category 2, most is 1/4" steel, some is 3/8" . 7' and I can swing it 180 while connected, its just a little wider than the rear tires, and its set up to offset to one side just by removing a pin and moving it either way. The angle adjustment is on the far end of the beam, that and fwd, should get me through the snow. I would prefer a 3 pt blower, but for the cost of this rear blade, and that a blower sits most of the year, the rear blade really is a cost effective implement for snow removal, more so when you don't have a loader on.