Snow plowing with back blade.

When you are doing this especially pushing backwards, do you use the draft control in the down position?
Plowed for the first time with our new 1841 tonight.
Going forward pulling snow with the back blade i cant see where it would make a difference.
But. Pushing backwards would it put less stress on things if it it was in draft control and was able to ride up over any obsticals. ??

Thanks for your input.
Jeff
 
Nope draft control only works going forward, the pressure pushing forward on the toplink is what regulates it. Backward it won't do anything but make it harder to control
 
When you are pulling the blade forward, excess pressure on the top link will make the hydraulics try to lift the blade to reduce the load when you are in draft mode. In reverse it works opposite and if the blade encounters an obstacle or just excess snow load it will sense a reduced load and will try to drop the blade deeper. That creates less pressure on the top link and now it senses less load and tries to drop it deeper yet. Soon your tractor will stop and spin the wheels.
 
It's going to do that anyways, rear blades are nice, handy for a lot of things, but they are not bulldozer blades. No down pressure, so it will ride up or possibly catch on something. In my opinion, and from experience of using one to clear snow, once the resistance becomes too much, it rides up the bank etc. its time to stop pushing.

I'm also cognizant of shock loads, whether that is plausible for concern about 3 point/hydraulic component damage, specifically the draft control, its hard to say, but good to be aware of and it is wise to go easy with these, even if its of heavy duty materials. I think the one we have at the stable, old, heavy, is 8'. I can't even begin to figure it out, but having worked there somewhat regularly for years, then on/off, during a snow event, the 3 pt blower was down, so I tried to hook up this rear blade, but someone had really done some damage to it, even bent the thick mold board too. Amazing, and all that shock load went to the tractor it was used on. I used it for a couple of seasons for clearing snow, never an issue with it. I would use the loader to dress up the banks and where down pressure was needed. Open station, looking back quite a bit or turned to the side, this combination was not that bad for short durations, but one thing remains clear, don't wait to clear in longer snow events, better to knock it down every so often.

I just got a really nice rear blade, Category 2, most is 1/4" steel, some is 3/8" . 7' and I can swing it 180 while connected, its just a little wider than the rear tires, and its set up to offset to one side just by removing a pin and moving it either way. The angle adjustment is on the far end of the beam, that and fwd, should get me through the snow. I would prefer a 3 pt blower, but for the cost of this rear blade, and that a blower sits most of the year, the rear blade really is a cost effective implement for snow removal, more so when you don't have a loader on.
 
I agree it is nice to have a blade that is wider than the rear end. the one I built is 7'. I think the challenge is going to be where to put it all. Develop a game plan ahead of time.

jeff
 
I agree with wider. I picked up this 8 footer a couple of years ago and would never go back to a six footer again. even when angled it keep the snow well of the driveway

Kirk
100_3396_zps0dd0393f.jpg
 
I am also VERY careful with pushing with my blade, the geometry on the mounting is designed to pull.
 
Thats a nice big one. After seeing that i wish i would have made mine wider. It was my first attempt at making an attachment. Cost a lot less than buying one.
 
I never push backwards. Very hard on 3pts hitches.

I have straightened the 3pts and the blade on a fellows 8n one than once because he hit something solid under the snow.
 

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