Adding a hoe to an '88 Ford 2810?

Hello,
So as it stands now, I paid $1000 plus another couple hundred to get a '61 Deere 2010W brought to my house. It doesn't run (water in engine supposedly), and top end is disassembled. Has backhoe in great shape, and
loader in good shape. I'm being told my folks on here the chances of getting it running are low without a lot of money, and I'd be better off to take off the hoe and scrap the rest.

A family member has an '88 Ford 2810 with 776a loader with low hours & runs great. The 2810 is not up for sale yet, but I think it may be within a year. How much effort would it be to take the hoe off the Deere 2010W
(Industrial) and mount it to the Ford? I'm wondering if its a large feat, since a simple google search with hoe and Ford 2810 isn't seemingly coming up with any hits... If so, what are the rules of engagement for
whether some other hoe would fit the Ford, or how would I know what tractors my 2010W loader will fit?

Any insight is greatly appreciated.
 
We had a 2010 ag wide front, and dad's good friend had a 2010 narrow front, that I ran quite a bit way back when, so I am familiar with Ag version to a certain extent.

2810 is I believe similar to a 3000 and up general purpose tractor, last one I saw had a broom on it, working on a major highway multi over pass project on I 90 locally. I'd say the JD 2010 is a bit heavier in the industrial version, which leads me to the opinion that the hoe on it, is much too heavy to consider for a 2810, which would require quite a bit of designing and fabricating to make a full frame mount, for something that will keep the front end up in the air, and that this tractor is NOT designed to have. Its big enough, (full size dedicated hoe, not a 3 pt or smaller type) to be a serious concern about excess loading on where it mounts, during operation and keeping the front axle on the ground. In short, this is not worth pursuing, its a total mismatch.

I've operated just about every manufacturer of rubber tire backhoe, matter of fact I had an excellent reputation as an operator of one for a company I worked for in the site work development business, mass earthmoving, pipe and utility work, knowing the feel and the weight of these, I just can't see one on a 2810 for that alone, forget the mounting of it and the hydraulics, (pto pump and dedicated reservoir may work on that).

I would suggest, a full frame 3 point model, full frame either you fabricate or have fabricated, or find one that would fit. I don't believe they are common, so you would likely have to do that yourself. 3pt by itself, with a pto pump or the remotes on a 2810, not sure what the spec's would be on that tractor, but a 3 pt hoe that is self contained, pto pump and reservoir, would eliminate that part of it. 3pt hoes if abused will be hard on the tractor 3 pt hitch, full frame will stiffen it up, and most compact tractors with dedicated hoes seem to have a nice full frame, mind you they still come off for using the 3 pt. A friend has one on a small Kubota and its a capable machine as I have seen. I think ones time and money would be better spent on one of these, or a decent used rubber tire back hoe. 3 pt models are decent, I ran one on the back of a Kioti rental a few months back, fine for light or moderate work, but nothing like a regular rubber tire backhoe/front loader. Surface work, drainage, small pipe, trenching, landscaping and light clearing are about what they are best suited for. The reach is short on these, so you have to get off the seat and get on the tractor seat to move, seems the hoes on these don't have the power to push the tractor around like one is used to with a regular hoe that you can shift to the side or move the tractor back, reset the outriggers and start working again in new ground, say for a long trench or something.
 
Hi - thanks for the feedback. Quick search on Tractordata shows 2010W @ 5000-5350lbs vs the 2810 @ 4300, presumably both without their respective loaders & hoe in case of 2010w.

So it seems like barring some opposing thoughts I need to pursue best approach for these machines separately, and have some thinking to do. Seems as my choices are:
1) Look for a cheap gas or 2-53 diesel to put into the 2010W to get running again and hope for no other major issues (really unknown)
2) If I get the 2810 w/ loader for fair price, use that while pursuing #1.

If #1 doesn't happen, sell/scrap/part it and hope to get my money back...
 
I'm not familiar with that deere, but compair tractor weights. if the deere and ford are similar weights, and you fab up a subframe, thaen it is in the realm of 'possible'.
 
I would agree, there's a significant weight difference, and one would think that repairing the 2010 Industrial, if just the motor, would be a better option. I would check the hoe out, possible it was not commercially run til its worn out, check pins/bushings, swing cylinders, pins/bushings, same with bucket etc etc. Lots of hoses and fittings to look over too, as well as the cylinders, but reasonably done, and working, I would think you could do ok with it. Thing is, there's a lot of older backhoes out there going back to almost the late 50's. One can look at several eras of these and consider price, condition and productivity for their needs etc. It kind of reminds me of class 6 single axle trucks, this country is loaded with them ranging back many years, from non road worthy to low mileage fire truck cab and chassis, or old grain trucks, there's a lot to look at in both of these as I see things.
 
I have a 3pt hitch hoe on my 2600 Ford that uses the hydraulics within the tractor. At the time the dealer did not want to put on a larger one than the Woods 750. Too big a hoe and you can tip over, break the frame, you also need a good oil supply. I would suggest that you replace the engine on the JD and leave the hoe on it. The back end on the tractors have to be very rugged so as not to break the axle housing, hence a very rugged under frame is necessary. Seen a lot of broken ones from poor mounting and rough use.
 

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