Crank driven pump shaft issues - remove how?

A while back I removed the hydraulic sickle bar and front pump on my 63 2000 SoS but was unable to get the pump shaft out of the hub bolted to the crank. At the time I thought "just let it spin," so I did - until I noticed the crank hub wobbling when I was running the log splitter. Tractor is at my Dad's 150 miles away so it is challenging to work on something away from the shop like that. I was able to loosen the adapter bolts to find a hex head crank bolt that I could get an adjustable wrench on to tighten. What I failed to do was to remove the shaft, even adapting a slide hammer to wail on it did not budge the thing.

What size is the hex head on the crank bolt so I can take the proper wrench with me? And any recommendations on how to get that 50 year frozen shaft to pop out of the hub? I do not want to have to haul my torches up there so I am leaning towards a sawzall to cut the shaft flush with the hub so I can sneak it out of the bolster. Will a MAP bottle torch heat the hub enough to break it free or is it going to take oxy-acetelyne to get a chunk of metal that big hot enough to do any good?

Any words of wisdom appreciated (I prefer to learn from others mistakes/successes instead of re-creating a @#$%^&* moment or two)

To get the shaft out of the hub you first have to figure out if it is a splined shaft or a left hand screw in type shaft. If it has splines try turning it opposite of what the engine turn just a bit then pull out on it. The splines tend to wear and twist which will cause them to not want to let a guy pull it out. If threaded you need to turn it back wards of what the engine spins and that can be hard to do since they tend to get very tight and it is hard to not turn the engine backwards when you try to unbolt/unscrew it

LH threaded shaft - that is a new one on me. I can tell the driven flange that bolted to the pump is keyed but I have no idea what the hub end is. I got to thinking after the slide hammer failed to move anything that if the pump flange didn't pop off with the slide hammer then the hub end probably ain't gonna move without alot more force. I was thinking the hub is probably splined but no good way to see it to tell.

Since this tractor is an ex-VA DOT mower I figure this shaft has been on the tractor from day one. However, the front axle bushing is still tight/not wore out so all of this may have been removed at some point in the past to replace the bushing, or not. Either way it is stuck and needs to come off so that the shaft isn't flopping around and mucking up the hub/seal/crank snout.

Is it advisable to use the rope in the cylinder trick to stop the motor from turning on these tractors? Just curious as I have never had a need to lock the motor mechanically until now.

My self I do not like the rope in the cylinder trick but may have to be done. Me I would pull the hood and front end off to have open access to the hub and shaft and that way you could unbolt the hub and have the shaft and hub in hand and be done with it.

This is a 63 2000 so the shaft goes through the front axle bushing. Taking the tin off would only provide me a little more working room at the expense of alot of aggravation. The issue is the lack of spacing between the bolster and the crank hub with the shaft hub taking up almost half of the distance. With the hub unbolted and pulled forward to the bolster there is only enough room to get a skinny adjustable wrench on the crank bolt.

If I could get some short bolts into the crank hub I would just leave the shaft hub secured in place and hopefully out of the way of the crank spinning and be done with it but there is not enough room to get shorter bolts in place between the shaft hub and the crank hub. Very tight spacing to work in.

I really would like to save the shaft for later use (and because I am cheap, kinda havta be) so I will see what I can hopefully make work. I need this fixed so I can skid logs and split firewood (working like a dog vacation).

I understand well how it is since I have one on a 8N and also an 841 which would be almost the same as the 2000 you have and if you pull the hood and radiator and then the front end as in front axle etc you can get to the shaft. I have had to do that in the past due to a hub and shaft problem on my 841 and it has a loader on it so a whole lot more work to do it

My 850 with a wagner loader has left hand threads. Once I figured that out it came apart with out too much effort.I don't know if the crankshaft adapters came with the loaders or if each installer crafted his own.

I have taken a few Fergusons apart that had a screw in shaft. It is possible that you have one too. Clean it up good you should be able to see if it has threads
boss

I solved my seized splined shaft situation by soaking that inner hub with PB and used a propane torch to heat it, let it sit, and repeated 5 times (over 2 days). Then I banged the shaft INTO the hub with one good sharp hit with a BFH, then I was able to wiggle it right out.