Fighting suburbia in NC
Member
A while back I removed the hydraulic sickle bar and front pump on my 63 2000 SoS but was unable to get the pump shaft out of the hub bolted to the crank. At the time I thought "just let it spin," so I did - until I noticed the crank hub wobbling when I was running the log splitter. Tractor is at my Dad's 150 miles away so it is challenging to work on something away from the shop like that. I was able to loosen the adapter bolts to find a hex head crank bolt that I could get an adjustable wrench on to tighten. What I failed to do was to remove the shaft, even adapting a slide hammer to wail on it did not budge the thing.
What size is the hex head on the crank bolt so I can take the proper wrench with me? And any recommendations on how to get that 50 year frozen shaft to pop out of the hub? I do not want to have to haul my torches up there so I am leaning towards a sawzall to cut the shaft flush with the hub so I can sneak it out of the bolster. Will a MAP bottle torch heat the hub enough to break it free or is it going to take oxy-acetelyne to get a chunk of metal that big hot enough to do any good?
Any words of wisdom appreciated (I prefer to learn from others mistakes/successes instead of re-creating a @#$%^&* moment or two)
What size is the hex head on the crank bolt so I can take the proper wrench with me? And any recommendations on how to get that 50 year frozen shaft to pop out of the hub? I do not want to have to haul my torches up there so I am leaning towards a sawzall to cut the shaft flush with the hub so I can sneak it out of the bolster. Will a MAP bottle torch heat the hub enough to break it free or is it going to take oxy-acetelyne to get a chunk of metal that big hot enough to do any good?
Any words of wisdom appreciated (I prefer to learn from others mistakes/successes instead of re-creating a @#$%^&* moment or two)