1953 ford jubilee

donharmon

Member
Rebuilt a 134 ci from the ground up ,turned it over with no exhaust or carb and am not getting any compression?? Help if u can Thnks
 
No compression at all? Are the valves closing?
Have you double checked the valve timing?
 
No compression says the valves are not opening and closing like they should. Have you set the valve tappets to spec??
 
Did you install the rings etc dry as in no oil or lube on them??? If you did that is the prbole and you need to pour some lube in the cylinders to make things work
 
How are you checking the compression?

Did you put a tester on each cylinder?

Low compression? or No compression?
 
might sound dumb but are you sure your compression tester is good?

if you have the pistons and valves installed at least remotely correctly you should be getting some kind of reading.
 

If you adjusted using both valves rocking on the compression stroke, are you sure of the stroke?

Try this method of tappet adjust which I prefer, from page 36 of the NAA owner's manual.

With #1 Exh & 3 Int fully open . . . Adjust #2 Int & #4 Exh.

With #1 Intake & #2 Exh open . . . Adjust #3 Exh & #4 Intake

With #2 Intake & #4 Exh open . . . Adjust #1 Exh & #3 Intake

With #3 Exh & 4 Int fully open . . . Adjust #1 Int & #2 Exh.

This method is quick and bullet proof because the lifters to be adjusted are guaranteed to be sitting on the absolute backs of their camshaft lobes. You won't have to worry about the compression stroke.

I've always used this method with all firing orders, partly because I like the fact that it is so quick I can do a hot setting before the engine has had time to cool down too much.
 
Am getting some compression on 1 and 4 and nothing on 2 and 3,cracked head maybe between the 2 cylinders??
 
Why kind of torque wrench did you use? What tightening stages and sequence did you use? Also what make of head gasket did you use?

I have some doubts as to a cracked head. It would have been fairly obvious if there was a crack between the 2 & 3 cylinders. It is most likely the head is not flat or did you have it milled? Could also be a bad new head gasket. You may have to loosen and retighten the head bolts. You aren't getting water in the oil are you or losing water?

Why did you overhaul it in the first place. Was it running before you overhauled it?
 
[No,cracked block 14 in long and 10 in down, ,started with a new rebuilt shortblock so all is new, new gaskets thru out,new bearings, rings , mains ,u name it, I did it. Thks for all the info and help
 
checked by your sequence this morning, all is well and still no compression, turns over with starter ok, just nothin on 2and 3????
 

Any chance you didn't stagger the ring gaps? Rings stuck in grooves?

Seems like the only things left to check are the rings and cylinder preparation.
 
Correct me if I am wrong. The jubilee has a flanged dry sleeve.
did you check to see if the top of the sleeves were at the correct height in the block. Are they supposed to protrude about .001-.003 above the block?
 
Well,they were professionally done and all looked the same as I was putting them in,did stagger all rings,dont understand why 2 cylinders are dead and other 2 good??
 
"dont understand why 2 cylinders are dead and other 2 good??"

When you started out, you said it had no compression, then you
said you had some compression on 1 and 4, now you're calling
them good. I'm not trying to be rude but in order to help we
really need to know what you have.

Can you check them with a gauge?
Dry and wet compression tests would be helpful.
 
Yes.I did check only the number 2 and 3 when I first checked them,and asked for your help,my mistake as so after my post,I checked them all with a new tester and this is what I came up with. All cylinders were oiled good and all rings were doubled checked for offsets so am confused why just the two?? Thnks so much for your help]
 
U know,when I checked the compression on the old cracked block, I didn't get any compression on those two cylinders either but thought it was because the block was cracked across those two ports?? Seems strange, doesnt it??]
 
More and more curious or as in Alice in Wonderland "Curiouser and curiouser".sic

Ok, now my last definitive question. When and why did the old block crack? Just trying to see how the head might have been involved in the original problem.
 
Occam's razor says most likely warped head or possibly a crack across the 2-3 combustion chambers like you originally speculated on. If the block cracked from freezing it could also involve the head. With this unknown I put highest probability on warped head.
Heat distortion or freezing bowing the head upward in the middle, or unfortunately and hopefully not cracking the head.
 
Got this tractor from another person, he left water in it during the winter and thus the cracked block, my thought is the head?? Thnks
 
(quoted from post at 19:17:11 11/07/15) Occam's razor says most likely warped head or possibly a crack across the 2-3 combustion chambers like you originally speculated on. If the block cracked from freezing it could also involve the head. With this unknown I put highest probability on warped head.
Heat distortion or freezing bowing the head upward in the middle, or unfortunately and hopefully not cracking the head.
The head on one of my NAA's was cracked in three places. It still ran.
In keeping with the least possible assumptions, I would have it
checked by a machine shop to rule it out. No need to guess that way.
If I were doing a rebuild I wouldn't put it back on without being sure.
 
You are going to have to remove the head whether warped or cracked. Seeing that the block cracked from freezing I am now leaning towards a cracked head.

:cry:
 
Took it in this morning and the no. 2 and 3 valves leak so am having the valves done and seal so hopefully that cures my dilemma?/ Thnks for ALL your response,Don
 
I am sorry, I thought you had checked the valves and guides while the head was off or I would have mentioned them. Also see if it has valve stem seals fitted to reduce oil consumption and crankcase gases.
 

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