Jubilee rear hubs

Got my Jube's sheet metal back on as it was in a pile when I bought it a few weeks back, installed new vertical exhaust so that I can replace hydraulic hoses on left side without having the old belly mounted exhaust up agsinst hoses. Drove her around in pasture some yesterday evening and my next project is to replace both rear hubs and axles too if needed cause she has some loose play on both sides , wheels are loose and you can shake them back and forth while parked. How labor intensive is this project, I want to do the job myself...

Got to find some rear fenders for the jubilee too after I get her hubs replaced.

Just dressed her up some for the winter months,sprayed her hood and rims with fresh coat of lipstick, got to renew 5 vehicle license plates this month, renew 3 boat registrations, and my wife, son, daughter, and son-in-law all have birthdays this month too, cash flow is limited through Christmas hoidays now. Plan to replace hubs in the Spring as soon as i study up on it....

Not going to repaint the red at this time, already had the gray paint on hand....

I have a couple extra rear hubs I will take $75 for the pair shipped to you, they are good hubs
Boss

If the hub nuts are tight and you have noticeable movement, you will likely need axles as well as the, undersized hubs once available from CNH, have been NLS for decades.

Dean

Good looking Jube' and nice collection overall. If your tractor hub to axle splines are loose, and you like to save money and continue to use the original parts, you could try what I did several years ago on my 8N.

My tractor had one very loose hub/axle spline set and I wanted to continue with my original parts, so I took off the wheel/hub assembly and the big axle nut and removed the hub. I cleaned everything up thoroughly... the hub and axle splines need to be perfectly clean. I then mixed and warmed up a large batch of good ol' JB weld to use to fill the gaps between the hub and axle splines. With the JB weld warmed up and in a low viscosity state, I slathered it heavy on the axle splines and then immediately installed the hub and tightened the axle nut. I seem to remember that the axle nut torque is very high... 250 or 350 ft lb or something like that...consult the manual for precision. The JB weld will squeeze out of the joint, so just wipe the excess off and let it cure completely before proceeding to re-install the rim and tire. This worked great for me and has been used hard for years with no sign of loosening up. I have never needed to take it apart, but if I did I would just heat up the hub with my torch until the JB softened up and I think it would then come off. PS I think I worked on my Brakes at the same time I did this JB weld job on my tractor. All the best, Brad.

Thanks Brad, that's one option to think about

dmbinva, are your hubs good used take offs or new ones ?

They are good used hubs
Boss

Nice looking tractor.
With any luck you might get away with just replacing the hubs.
The axle is harder metal and wears slower.
Check out John Smith's tutorial for how to check wear.
It was done on an 8N but its the same principle.

As Brad said the torque on that nut is high.
Manual says 450 foot pounds.

If you just want fenders that fit, 9N/2N/8N fenders will work.
Only the late 8N fenders would have Ford script like the Jube's though.