Ford 2000 4 cylinder gas won't start.

Orchardman32

New User
It was running fine then....nothing. An employee left the key in the "accessory" position by mistake for a few days. No solenoid click. The ignition switch, the battery, the solenoid are good. The tractor pull starts. It's a 12 volt conversion. The resistor block looks "old". Suggestions please.
 

Don't know what leaving the switch in accessary would do to it. The original switch in that tractor was only two position . . . and there weren't any "accessories". Given what you've told us . . . and if your starting circuit is still factory . . . you must have starter switch, switch to solenoid wire or solenoid problem.

Again, if it's still original, try grounding the wire at the starter button on the transmission and see if that does it. If it does not, ground it at the solenoid terminal that wire attaches to. If still no go, jump out the solenoid. Still nothing big cable from solenoid to starter and/or starter itself.

[b:9e4946a6ea][color=red:9e4946a6ea]CAUTION! Before trying any of this make sure the transmission is in neutral and that the brakes are locked or your wheels are chocked![/color:9e4946a6ea][/b:9e4946a6ea]
 
if you are using accy to excite the alternator, you drained the battery when you left the key on.

If it will pull start and run, I would double tripple check the battery.

it may show 12v with a 1 megaohm input volt meter.. but when you hit the key and the 100a starter load hits, it may drop to 4v.. however, just letting the 3a ignition run and pull starting may be just enough juice to make a spark and then an amp for the alternator excite, and thent he alt takes up the slack and runs her using the battery as a big capacitor.

so double check the abttery.

if it load tests good, and the machine will run when pulled, then as said., start trouble shooting starter , starter switch, and starter relay wiring.

test probe or vom.. etc.
 

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