What lube for 960 rear wheel gearing?

Brad_bb · Sep 27, 2015

I want to top off the lube in the gearboxes for the rear wheel highcrop gears of my 55 Ford 960. I want to make sure I use the correct stuff as I do not have an original manual. Any help?

Sean in PA · Sep 27, 2015

Whatever you're using for the main rear axle/differential.

MarkB_MI · Sep 28, 2015

Those are called final drives, and they take 85W-90 gear lube.

Don't forget the steering pedestal! It also takes 85W-90, and the fill hole is under the radiator grill. You check it using the dipstick from the hydraulic reservoir; one side is marked "pedestal".

After filling your final drives you might find they leak. Replacing the seals isn't too bad of a job once you get the brakes apart. After replacing the axle seal, the bearing preload will need to be restored by removing shims from under the cover you see in your picture directly above the drain plug.

showcrop · Sep 29, 2015

Before adding, let a little out the bottom in order to check for water, and other bad stuff. it may tell you to change rather than top off.

souNdguy · Sep 29, 2015

agreed. 75w-90, 90w, 80w90, etc. I have even put 85-140 in the final drives... or utf I guess too.

Dean · Sep 29, 2015

Agreed.

Most folks forged the pedestal.

I would drain it. Most likely it has a couple of quarts of water in it. Freeze dmage can destroy the pedestal in cold climates.

Dean

MarkB_MI · Sep 29, 2015

When I went to drain the pedestal on mine the plug was frozen solid. Had to heat it up with a brazing tip to get it loose. And yes, plenty of water came out.

NoNewParts · Sep 29, 2015

I use 85w-140 in finals but 80-90 would be fine too.
They don't hold all that much, if they haven't had new oil since you've owned it, drain em and put in new.
at the risk of being overly dramatic....water in any oil is doom..oil is cheap.
(be glad it's a Ford, some brands don't have drainplugs and you have to remove the pans to change it)

Brad_bb · Oct 6, 2015

I went through my pedestal when I restored the tractor. I did not mess with the final final drives as there was nothing wrong with them, and didn't do the rear wheels and brakes at the time cause I needed to keep the wheels on to move the frame around. Every other part of the tractor was rebuilt/restored. The I had to use the tractor to mow for a few seasons, and now I am finally tending to the rear wheels and brakes. Final drives are fine and not significant leaks. I mean you'll get a few drops if you let it sit a couple weeks, but not enough to warrant dissassembly to change seal yet.

showcrop · Oct 6, 2015

(quoted from post at 08:22:46 10/06/15) I went through my pedestal when I restored the tractor. I did not mess with the final final drives as there was nothing wrong with them, and didn't do the rear wheels and brakes at the time cause I needed to keep the wheels on to move the frame around. Every other part of the tractor was rebuilt/restored. The I had to use the tractor to mow for a few seasons, and now I am finally tending to the rear wheels and brakes. Final drives are fine and not significant leaks. I mean you'll get a few drops if you let it sit a couple weeks, but not enough to warrant dissassembly to change seal yet.

Just to be sure you understand. There is a good likelihood of water in them.

Brad_bb · Oct 9, 2015

Yes, I'll drain my final drives and fill them with fresh 85w-90.

What lube for 960 rear wheel gearing?

Brad_bb

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Sean in PA

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showcrop

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souNdguy

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Dean

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showcrop

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