ford 4500 diesel wont start

i just picked up an old 1970 ford 4500 3 cylinder diesel with backhoe. Don't know last time it ran but it turns over no problem. I replaced the fuel filter and bled out the lines. when i crank it white smoke comes out of exhaust and it just doesn't want to start. What should i try next? Compression test? where would i buy a kit to fit it? Should i spray either? I know diesels don't like that. Should i just start replacing injectors? Needs some help guys.
 
You might check the radiator for oil and the dip stick for antifreeze.My dad bought 2 in 1970 and lost both to block rot.
 
White smoke on cranking means it is getting fuel and making a little heat. How long did you crank? Low compression and low temperature will lead to white smoke and long cranking times. Long cranking time will damage a starter motor. Helped a guy with an excavation business. He had a Volvo off road truck that you had to crank 1-2 minutes steady while making white smoke for it to start, and it would pick up 1 cylinder at a time on the starter until it would carry itself. We had a 5000 that needed a block heater below 45*F. Does your 4500 have a manifold heater?
 
I crank for about 10 seconds at a time. I don't want to burn out the starter. No block heater or any kind of heater on this thing.
 
I crank for about 10 seconds at a time. I don't want to burn out the starter. No block heater or any kind of heater on this thing.
 
One that has sat can be hard to get to start. Me I would use a little starter fluid. The type I use any more is the Preastone brand and has a lube in it so not as hard on the engine as most are. If it tries to run that way it could be air in the system or low compression or even a injector pump problems
 
IIRC that engine (like on my 4500)has a high compression engine so it doesn't react too well to either. Mine will start down
into the 40s but it needs the Thermostart working perfectly and even then its not that easy. I put a block heater in and now
never have a problem. I prefer the heater over the Thermostart. If the Thermostart isn't working 100% forget it.
 
It is a 'glow plug' at the beginning of the intake manifold that has fuel flowing through it. It introduces heated fuel to
the cylinders when the key is held in the opposite (I think) direction. I say "I think" because my key switch broke long ago
and I have a separate button for it now.
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:53 10/04/15) It is a 'glow plug' at the beginning of the intake manifold that has fuel flowing through it. It introduces heated fuel to
the cylinders when the key is held in the opposite (I think) direction. I say "I think" because my key switch broke long ago
and I have a separate button for it now.
Thanks guys! I'll check that out in the morning!
 
You should have a thermostart. Turn ignition key counter clockwise 1 notch for 20 seconds or so and then another notch counter clockwise to crank. TS should be in the intake manifold just after the rubber connector, you will see a wire and fuel line. It should get pretty warm if the element is working. You are going to need longer than 10 seconds cranking. Bite your tongue harder the longer you crank :).
 
the machine is missing the the pipe to the air filter from the manifold. Is that where the thermostart would be? Does the open manifold make starting harder? Should I order the parts?
 
Thermostart was an option on the 1965-1-074 thousand series 3 cylinder diesels, so not all of them would have it.

The original key switch for a 4500 thermostart system would have 5 positions, with the middle position being off, and one click to the right would be "run" which on a diesel really just provides the power for the gauges and idiot lights, and one more position to the right is the spring loaded "start" position. Then one click to the left of center would be the thermostart position, and you're supposed to hold the key there for at least 30 seconds and then turn it the next position to the left which is the spring loaded "heat start" position, and once it starts and you let go of the key, it springs back to the "off" position, which has nothing to do with turning the diesel engine off, it just turns off the electrics to the gauges and idiot lights (The light switch is always powered). So if you use the thermostart properly and then want the gauges and idiot lights to work you need to turn the key one click to the right after you're done starting it. Later tractor models had a different key switch and some of the earlier tractors have had their original switches replaced with the later style, which does not have any positions to the left of off, just "run" and "Start" to the right, but there is actually a hidden switch position halfway between Run and Start that doesn't have its own detent, so you have to hold the key there against the spring pressure to be in the thermostart position.

If your tractor does have it, it would be in the manifold itself up near the front. It would have a wire and a fuel line going to it, and if the tube from the air filter to the manifold is missing you should be able to hold the key in the thermostart position for 30 seconds or so and look into the front of the manifold to see if you see burning fuel in there.
 
I found the thermostart. It's on the back side of the intake manifold. No wire going to it. I'll wire it up and see how it goes.
 
OK, I am going to say this and I know it will give everyone a laugh as it sounds crazy. On my 4000 diesel, if I try to crank with the fuel handle pulled down to any position it takes a few times of 10-15 second tries before it will crank and some time more. If I pull the handle down about 1/4 way and use the foot pedal it will start first time very quick (most of the time). I don't have any of the smoke you mention and feel sure the path the more knowledgeable people are tell you is what you should try.

FWIW
Michael
 
That compression is very low for a diesel. I havent checked my Ford 4500 but other diesels I have had are more like 350 to 400 psi. I dont
think your are going to get it running without some internal engine work .
 

Running with no air filter will lead to low compression. With the compression that low you will need to either raise the engine temperature or lower the flashpoint of the fuel mixture in order for it to start. until you get the compression up that means getting the thermostat working and cycling it a few times, or using ether. when used judiciously ether is not that hard on a motor. Usually just a split second puff is all that is needed. A puff of ether is better than washing down the cylinder walls with a lot of unturned fuel.
 

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