Ford 7000 Alternator will not charge

Checked battery checks good. Alternator checks good. Replaced voltage regulator. Still will not charge.

Any suggestions other things to check?

so..

good vreg

good alt

good battery.


I didn't hear anything about 'wires'

He didn't say he had a good voltage regulator, he said he replaced it. I'd put money on a bad regulator having bought a bad one myself once.

And I'd test it with a point to point wiring before I did -ANY- guessing or thinking about the vreg being bad or buying any more parts.

I know that many here are loath to do any diagnostics, and instead much prefer to use the shotgun approach of just buying parts untill everything has been repalced a few times.. but .....

testing is advised.

put the wallet down.. and pickup the meter..

If it came with an alternator,,,, and the tach works of the injector pump on the 7000,,,,

Convert alternator to a delco internal regulator... or better known as a one wire alternator. cheaper, quicker, and never look back. Easier to buy and simple to trouble shoot.

I usually use the older 10si models so I can have the charge light work and use the old idiot light wire for the light to work. The 10si comes in a 63 amps now and the 37 amps are hard to find but works fine, just charges faster is all.

I second that approach!
I did this procedure on my 73 7000 row crop (7200). Just wire the light to the Excite circuit and you are running.
Mine bolted right in. No change to bottom bracket. May need a different bolt because pivot hole of 10 SI is 3/8. Might have to mess with the top adjuster bracket because of the curve of the 10SI.
MUCH MUCH MUCH cheaper.
Just price the cost of one of those Motorola Alternators!

As is said "JUST DO IT!"
Keith

Yesterday sotxbill and I, suggested that it may be cheaper and easier to just replace the Motorola Alt with a delco 10SI.

It requires no external regulator and you only need to hook up 2 wires.
1 to battery
2nd to light in instrument panel.

You may need a different lower pivot bolt and a mod to the top adjustment bracket.
Ask if you need help.

it really is a much better solution.
Keith

A 50 cent fuse would be cheaper if that's what it was.

Hey old
If I had as much money that gets wasted by some guys just guessing and parts swapping, trying to save paying a mechanic then end up needing one anyway and a 50 cent part if they are lucky after that. I'd be retired at 41 and be sitting on a beach drinking beer. Not be on this farm trying to make money and running a customer shop out fixing the other guys problems with his equipment to!
I actually had one customer with a tractor didn't call me first when his tractor wouldn't charge spent $600 on 2 new batterys and a genuine replacement Alternator. Guess what !. Happened to be in the parts store getting stuff when he came in and started grilling the guy again.I kinda said hey fred whats up with that tractor. Got the whole story and said well I bet it's black wire no 406 in the loom at the 4 pin plug under the dash Pins burnt out in the plug, guy kinda wasn't to happy right then. I looked at it on the way home sure enough there it was cut the burned wires from the plug crimped a pair of terminals on away it went. I gave him that repair and parts. Then told him maybe sometimes it's better to ask than spend $600 guessing. He will usually call and ask for simple might fix it advice before i go out there if he can't do it now.
Regards Robert

Yep some do not understand you can not fix stupid as in if you have the $$ to throw parts at it your not smart enough to be working on it