1964 Ford 2000 fuel problem

Folks my Ford 2000 will run fine at times and others randomly just shut down as if it's run out gas but got plenty in tank. Today it happened while I was mowing a pasture. I let it sit for awhile then it crank right back up, run fine for a awhile then do it all over again. happened 3-4 times so I just gave up and parked it. The sediment bowl is inline with the carburetor and stays full. However it also appears I have another sediment bowl right below the fuel tank on right side (as your sitting the seat) with a shut off valve on it (will have to replace it as it leaks around the screw handle). there are a few rust spots in the tank but doesn't look to bad? I'm guessing either its flooding or I got something in my fuel line/carburetor? Any thoughts or advise?
 
I'd get it down to one sediment bowl and yes, I think you have something in the fuel lines. Don't forget there might be a finger strainer inside the tank too. It'd take a lot of junk to clog THAT up but it could happen.
 
When the problem happens, try loosening the fuel cap slowly see if it will restart right away. It could be an unvented fuel cap or a blocked vent.
 
sounds like a replacemnt universal tank, and they are using an NAA style sediment bowl, and the carb mounted bowl.

nothing wrong with EXTRA strainers.. just make sure they don't leak, and you DO have flow.

at moment of stall check spark. if spark is good, check fuel flow thru carb.

post back
 
Perry,

I have a 1973 Ford 2000, 3 cylinder gas tractor. I had a problem similar to yours a few years ago. I eventually found that the screen inside the fuel pump that is located on the front of the engine was clogged. Cleaned the screen and no more problems.

You might just tuck that away in the back of your mind, and if the other things you try don't work, you might see about that screen.

Tom in TN
 
Machine in neutral, clutch blocked, fuel off, key on, pull wire from coil to distributor cap, hold it within 1/4" of the head, crank engine over..
 

SouNdguy- do I pull the plug off the coil and and lay it 1/4in from engine or pull off end from distributor cap to use for test?
 
first spark test is to pull the wire fromt he coil to the distribuitor cap out of the cap and then hold that near the head/block, etc.

if that has spark, then test all 4 wires.
 
SouNdguy- thanks for the advice but need a little more please.
When testing the other 4 distributor wires am I pulling wire off the spark plug end and watching for spark or off the distributor cap end and watching for spark arch?

Also I did do the test by pulling wire from coil to distributor cap off the cap end and lay it next to engine block and got a "orange spark" (not blue)? what does that mean?
 
Pull the wires, one at a time, from the spark plugs, and hold the end that was on the spark plug close to a good clean ground spot and watch for a good strong blue/white spark that will jump at least 1/4" gap to ground as you crank the strarter.
 
I had a similar problem years ago. In that case I had a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. The manifold bolts were loose.

Another possibility is an intermittent ignition problem. Meaning that it may not show up in a spark test. The sudden shut down could not only be a fuel problem, but loss of ignition. First what are the condition of the ignition parts- old wires? Corroded cap? Points condition? Are the distributor shaft bushings worn and is there slop there? That is one that not many think of.
Something to consider.
 
(quoted from post at 16:42:12 09/27/15) Weak spark

So if I have a weak spark does that mean a bad coil or what? I recently changed out my spark plugs with AL 437's (it had 216's in it but read somewhere using 437's help cut down with fouling.

Also and don't know if this makes a difference, may only be coincidence but seems it shutting off only happened when Ive worked it hard mowing/bush-hogging for a little while. When I was pulling privet bushes for an hour or so didnt have the problem, only after when I can back later in the day and did some mowing for about 1/2 hour? Anyway ran it today with no problems but again not hard work and not long. Just pulled a downed tree and a few more privet bushes out before I got a flat tire and parked it (another post coming).
 
One more possibility that I just thought of. I fought with my tractor for 2 seasons for what i concluded was the needle in the carb sticking closed. It had a rubber tip. Maybe swelling caused by ethanol in the fuel? I could tap the carb and get the needle to release. It happened just as you described. I'd be mowing along under normal load and it would just die.
 
what coil, ( and resistor, if any ) do you have, and remind me if this is 12v or not. been a bit since I have visited this thread.
 

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