Tire sizes for 640

martyh

Member
Just looking for someone to double check me.

13.6 X 28 fits on a 12 X 28 rim?

13.6-28 tire on 12 X 28 rim will fit and clear the fenders on a 640 tractor?
 
(quoted from post at 06:28:35 09/23/15) Yes . 13.6 tire goes on a 12" rim.
But you do know a 600 should have 12.4 tires right?

Define "should" for me.

-It "should" have 12.4's because thats what was original?

-It "should" have 12.4's because 13.6 is too hard on the driveline?

It "should" have 12.4's because ?????


My 640 will be a mowing machine (72" Bush Hog brand finish mower on the 3-point) and power for my Chipper. It will not have a loader and will likely never be ground engaged so I'm hoping to put large turf tires on the back. I already have high floatation 11L15 implement tires on 15 X 8 wheels for the front.

I respect everyone's opinion so I am genuinely asking. In case someone reads this post as being flip, it's not intended.
 
my 640 came with 13.6x28 tires and I think they are too big for it. trying to set the wheels narrow I couldn't even get my hand behind the tire between the fender. I'm going back to 12.4
 
Should meaning it would have come from the
factory with 11X28 tires - the old
equivalent of modern 12.4
The 6XX tractors had the tin set to the
lower setting - unlike the 8XX tractors
with the high tin setting and 13.6 tires.
Made them look bigger which in fact they
were.
Running 13.6s wont hurt anything but will
change the appearance a bit.
Make it look like a tom cat with it's tail
up. Some folks care. Some don't.
 
Appearance aside, wouldn't it make sense that 13.6 turfs are going to have a little more contact patch than 12.4? The property is rolling so I don't want to completely hamstring myself traction wise and since I have to buy tires anyhow....
 
your tractor, run what you want.
moving the wheel center will put the tire anywhere you need it.
that said...
12.4's are a good match for a 640.
with a 4-speed, sooner or later you will want sloooow.
13.6's will go a bit faster at the same rpm.
Turfs eh?
if you ever want it to move at all, even shed to shed, in the winter, you'll need chains.
So it's a good idea to figure in chain clearance when setting a tire,
unless you are lucky enough to live where there is no snow.

ps your other post, I recently traded away some like new 13.6-28 turfs on Ford rims. I think he got $500+ for the pair at auction.
my trade was for about $300 worth. I didn't think anyone would want turfs.....live and learn.

edit to add since we were typing at the same time.
In the wet, snow, mud, doesn't matter if turfs are 12 inches wide or 12 feet wide....you are stuck.
How steep where you are? turfs will also slide sideways easily.
 
Bigger tires mean more flotation, not more traction. If you want more traction add ballast. I run 12.4 ag bars on my 3000 mowing tractor. Have 225 lb wheel weights on each rear tire.
Does not mark up the lawn at all when mowing and still gives me decent traction when brush mowing hills and moguls or when plowing, skidding logs,digging with rear scoop, etc.
3000 "should" have 13.6s but I run the smaller tires to get my height down for mowing under trees and branches.
 
You make a good point. I might be going about this incorrectly. My John Deere 770 has very conservative type turfs but also has 4 wheel drive and it's needed at times. It is very gentle on the grass. My 640 has 3 rib front tires that compress a line in the soil in straight lines and cut into the turf in turns (I'm only mowing in 1st gear). I am eliminating that front tire problem with huge, round, Made in the USA, 11L15 implement tires. Lots of floatation and round shoulders. I assumed I wanted turf tires as big as I can fit on the rear to spread the load on the ground to protect the grass. It's rolling so I need SOME traction but I can choose when I mow so I don't have to ever deal with mud or wet grass.
a201523.jpg
 
Here is a picture of the tire I am considered for the 640 rears.

One of the fields is completely flat and the other only has two small areas that give me concern. My JD770 has very fine treaded Bridgestone turf tires and can do these areas in 2WD though I use 4WD in a couple spots because it tends to spin a wheel in the turns but it is a pretty small and light tractor.

I agree about the wanting "slow" on the 640. If I knew then what I know now I would have held out for a 5 speed.

The tractor will never be out in the snow so chains and getting stuck in snow are a non issue. My wife and I both have 4WD and the Cincinnati, Ohio, SW Indiana area gets snow but it usually isn't terrible.

I plan to use each Winter to make my 640 better so it'll be inside in some state of disassembly.

I wonder if I can find something sort of in between a full blown R-1 tread and the block style turf tire?
a201526.jpg
 
Nothing wrong with setting up a tractor for a specific purpose. Many guys here have but one tractor to use for every task so you try to recommend a configuration that will work for many purposes. But you have another tractor and you need this one for mowing. So turfs will probably be fine.
Look at John Smith's beautiful 601 that he built out of a couple of different tractors.
tractors. With that belly mower it would be worthless for many purposes but would be outstanding as a mowing tractor.
I would still go with the 12.4s though and would still add some wheel weights. Partly because I just like ballast, partly because I don't think compaction will be an issue. I even run about 200 lbs of bumper weights in the front of my 3000. I have cheesy 14" car tires in the front and have found they scuff less with the weight than they do without.
Click below to see John's mowing tractor.I know he recently switched out the SOS and put a 5 speed/w lpto in it
click here.
 
Oh I know all about the John Smith mowing machines. They are my inspiration. Once I saw that 8N, I knew I wanted to do something similar with my 640. Their 800 series unit is amazing. As I say, my 640 will be used for mowing and as the transportation and power for my chipper to take advantage of that 30hp. My JD770 is 20hp of diesel at the pto and it is ALMOST enough for the full 8" capability of my Woodmax chipper but the 30hp and a heavier tractor is much better suited to it. I'm going to email Tucker Tire and see what the circumferences are of the 12.4 vs the 13.6 turf tires they offer. Previous general research suggested to me the difference is negligible. If that is NOT the case, I agree with the 12.4s. I can't afford to make the tractor any faster than the 3.7mph in 1st it is now. I'm pulling a 72" finish mower and it does a great job but you can tell any faster and the quality of the cut will diminish. Plus I don't want to be going any faster or be any taller when sideways on the hills when I have to turn on them.

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto28102.jpg"/>
 
I run 13.6's on my 740 no problem.

remember, with the rim and center, you have LOTS of options on where that tire sets.

you can flip centers, and you can put the rim loops in or out, and in front or behind the center.

the front / behind gets you a couple inches right there.
 
If I go with 12.4's I will probably want to go out an inch or so to match the new track of the 11L15 front tires. This is going to be fun.

When you say no problem with 13.6 on the 740, do you mean speed wise? I sent Tucker Tire a message about circumference. If they're nearly the same I'll probably spend the money and get the 13.6's. If it's much of a difference, I'll have to go with the 12.4's. I really don't want the tractor to get any faster.
 
13.6 will be faster than 12.4... that's just a function of physics.

if you want slower.. go lower..

my 'not much difference' was in reference to available clearance.... you can make the rim and center clear the fender even if you put 14.9-28's on. I have a set on my 950.
 
I'd love to see a whole lot more pictures of that loader set up. If I had enough detailed pictures I would try and build one of those
 
Marty....hope you don't mind....I will give Old an answer in your thread. Those tires in case you were wondering,
7.50 x 10 Industrial on the front
18.4 x 16.1 on the rear on positive offset 16" wide wheels.

(quoted from post at 13:18:57 09/23/15) I'd love to see a whole lot more pictures of that loader set up. If I had enough detailed pictures I would try and build one of those

Old,
My rear loader (now on a NAA) is the Ford Dearborn 19-87.
The complete manual is on the 'other' Ford N site. Lots of pics.
There is a similar one that has a little different design,
the Dearborn 19-29.
Pretty simple design actually. works pretty well for light duty.
 
I am not caring what tire size you or anyone else uses
likes or whatever just placing a southern opinion I would
,if mowing , use 16.9 - 24 tires maintain the overall
height an not pack the ground , I use R1 tires except when
R2' s are needed, don't like turf tires at all , forgot I
use fluid in my tires for traction .
 
I just bought a new set of tires for my TO35 Ferguson, similar size tractor.
I went with 12.4 x 28, they fit the fenders fine, 11" wheel size.

If you do any field work, example plowing, disking, pulling stumps, etc:

you want the tires to be able to slip if it gets overloaded, with larger tires,

no wheel slippage, something else is going to give, might be your clutch or differential gears.

with fluid in the tires, you have plenty of traction and weight for this size tractor, plus if you tach, speedometer is still working, you have the correct speed for spraying, etc.
just my humble opinion.
a201565.jpg

a201566.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:54:25 09/23/15) Should meaning it would have come from the
factory with 11X28 tires - the old
equivalent of modern 12.4
The 6XX tractors had the tin set to the
lower setting - unlike the 8XX tractors
with the high tin setting and 13.6 tires.
Made them look bigger which in fact they
were.
Running 13.6s wont hurt anything but will
change the appearance a bit.
Make it look like a tom cat with it's tail
up. Some folks care. Some don't.

12X4 are not equivalent to 11.2's in my book... 12.4 are taller and wider...
 
(quoted from post at 20:40:25 09/23/15) If I go with 12.4's I will probably want to go out an inch or so to match the new track of the 11L15 front tires. This is going to be fun.

When you say no problem with 13.6 on the 740, do you mean speed wise? I sent Tucker Tire a message about circumference. If they're nearly the same I'll probably spend the money and get the 13.6's. If it's much of a difference, I'll have to go with the 12.4's. I really don't want the tractor to get any faster.

You have one shot to get the speed were you will like it... 13.6 will speed'er up... I have a bud that put 13.6 on his 860 he is not liking them and stuck with them...
 
(quoted from post at 09:37:12 09/24/15)
(quoted from post at 20:40:25 09/23/15) If I go with 12.4's I will probably want to go out an inch or so to match the new track of the 11L15 front tires. This is going to be fun.

When you say no problem with 13.6 on the 740, do you mean speed wise? I sent Tucker Tire a message about circumference. If they're nearly the same I'll probably spend the money and get the 13.6's. If it's much of a difference, I'll have to go with the 12.4's. I really don't want the tractor to get any faster.

You have one shot to get the speed were you will like it... 13.6 will speed'er up... I have a bud that put 13.6 on his 860 he is not liking them and stuck with them...

Yeah and I did some finish mowing last night just to remind myself how fast 1st already is. I'm not going for the 13.6's. I'm certain I will love their floatation but will hate their speed. Is it possible to go to a completely different type of rim like that 8N in the picture did with those super wide tires on 16.1 rims? The 600 series wouldn't happen to be 8 bolt on 8" circle would it?! If I ended up a little slow with those giant balloons, I have a Sherman Step Up which is pretty useless. I'd then have a use for it. lol.
 
Marty

Looks like your winter project is going to be similar to mine except I have a 671 selectospeed. Have one more mowing to do on my place
probably in a couple of weeks, then I'll ship the tractor down to the farm so I can start doing the restore. Mechanically mine is in good
shape, just need to fix up some of the tin, new exhaust, brakes, back rims, and re do the paint. I have 2 new rear rims sitting on the farm
waiting for me now. My current ones are rusting out around the valve stem and looking at them if I start removing the rust to get to good
metal I think I might end up being able to put my head through the rim. Found the rims with shipping for about $350. My tires are in good
enough shape, just have to remount them. Already finished rehabbing my 501 pitman mower and my blade. Painted the up to match the original
ford colors I'm doing on the tractor. I'll try to keep pace with you this winter and trade some pictures.
 
(quoted from post at 14:40:52 09/25/15) Marty

Looks like your winter project is going to be similar to mine except I have a 671 selectospeed. Have one more mowing to do on my place
probably in a couple of weeks, then I'll ship the tractor down to the farm so I can start doing the restore. Mechanically mine is in good
shape, just need to fix up some of the tin, new exhaust, brakes, back rims, and re do the paint. I have 2 new rear rims sitting on the farm
waiting for me now. My current ones are rusting out around the valve stem and looking at them if I start removing the rust to get to good
metal I think I might end up being able to put my head through the rim. Found the rims with shipping for about $350. My tires are in good
enough shape, just have to remount them. Already finished rehabbing my 501 pitman mower and my blade. Painted the up to match the original
ford colors I'm doing on the tractor. I'll try to keep pace with you this winter and trade some pictures.

Funny, I'm pursuing a 501 sickle myself. I too may go off the reservation regarding repaint color.

Pretty sure I'm doing the Titan 18.4 X 16.1 Torc Trac tires. It'll minimally lower the back end and help lower speed by about 10%. At some point if I can't find 8 hole on 6" dia wheels I'll just order the stock 18.4 x 16.1 wheels and have some adapters machined or the wheels drilled. I have access to a guy who's reasonably priced and likes odd projects.
 
That is a MF64 disc plow, bend tube.
Must have been made near the end of the run for US made MF Disc plows.

Rarely do I ever seen a bent tube model, I jumped right on it, does a find job plowing.

my friend has a double Ferguson disc plow, the one that is called the bullet plow as the frame is straight, looks like a large howitzer round.

Always was told that as they left the factory, a Ferguson plow wrench was placed inside the frame tube, I have never pulled a end cap off one of the plows to check, bet if it did come with a wrench, it's long gone by now.
 
My father and grandfather were handy in the
machine shop and my dad's farm and shop are only
about 20 minutes away. So I learned early on how
to fabricate a lot of my own parts that aren't to
complicated. Did a lot of fabrication on my 501. It
was a rust bucket when I got it. Put on new store
bought section and about half of the guards. Spent
a lot of time on rust removed and priming. Some
good paint and too much time hand painting the
ford logos. But it cuts well and looks nice. Of course
I'm not cutting alfalfa or serious hay so it doesn't get
a lot of abuse.

I look forward to seeing the new tires on your
tractor. If you get a 501 and need any info or picture
on parts just let me know. I built a template and an
extra swath board after olds sent me a picture of the
original manual.
 
(quoted from post at 11:29:48 09/26/15) Neat, thanks.

M.E.Miller is supposed to have my front tire and wheels here Monday and I just got back home from dragging a decent 501 sickle home for $300 and a tank of gas. It needs a little work, not a lot but I am starting with a lot less corrosion than I have seen on a lot of other mowers. I just ordered fresh clean copies of the owner and parts manuals. Pics when I get it unloaded.
 
(quoted from post at 14:40:45 09/26/15)
(quoted from post at 11:29:48 09/26/15) Neat, thanks.

M.E.Miller is supposed to have my front tire and wheels here Monday and I just got back home from dragging a decent 501 sickle home for $300 and a tank of gas. It needs a little work, not a lot but I am starting with a lot less corrosion than I have seen on a lot of other mowers. I just ordered fresh clean copies of the owner and parts manuals. Pics when I get it unloaded.


I'm posting a couple pictures and starting a new thread for my Ford 501 sickle mower in the Implement category on this website.
 
....And I'm all in now on the tire project. The 15 X 8 6 bolt implement wheels from ME Miller in Ohio and the American Farmer USA made 11L15 implement tires w/tubes also from ME Miller fit perfectly. I mowed with these installed for a couple hours yesterday. I immediately see a difference in the grass. Steering is a little more difficult but there's twice as much rubber on the ground now. The ride was much improved.

I have ordered 16 x 16.1 blank rims from Hey Wheel in Kansas. They will also supply loose centers cut to fit the inside diameter of the blank rims and drilled for the 8 bolt 6" circle Ford pattern. This will allow me to set the tire clearance and wheel backspacing where I want it, then they can be welded in.

I just placed my order for a pair of Titan Torc-Trac 18.1 X 16.1 R3 type tires from Simple Tire in Pennsylvania. My current R-1 tires are about 46.5" diameter so if the published 43.2" diameter is accurate, I will see a ground speed reduction of 7%. Potential tire on the ground of course goes from about 12" to over 18".

Front tires, wheels and tubes about $400.
Rear wheels and centers about $400.
Titan 18.4 x 16.1 tires $1395.

Expensive on the face of it, yes. However, I plan to have the tractor for life. I'm 52 so let's use 20 years as the potential divisor ( I hope!). $2195/20 is $109.75 per year. So, for $109.75 per year, I can have the tire and wheel setup I want. I'm only mowing with this tractor and it looks like it will see 5-7 hours of use per week when the grass is growing. I'm in Indiana so that's probably late March through October. I doubt 20 years will wear out the backs, maybe not the fronts either.
 
....And I'm all in now on the tire project. The 15 X 8 6 bolt implement wheels from ME Miller in Ohio and the American Farmer USA made 11L15 implement tires w/tubes also from ME Miller fit perfectly. I mowed with these installed for a couple hours yesterday. I immediately see a difference in the grass. Steering is a little more difficult but there's twice as much rubber on the ground now. The ride was much improved.

I have ordered 16 x 16.1 blank rims from Hey Wheel in Kansas. They will also supply loose centers cut to fit the inside diameter of the blank rims and drilled for the 8 bolt 6" circle Ford pattern. This will allow me to set the tire clearance and wheel backspacing where I want it, then they can be welded in.

I just placed my order for a pair of Titan Torc-Trac 18.1 X 16.1 R3 type tires from Simple Tire in Pennsylvania. My current R-1 tires are about 46.5" diameter so if the published 43.2" diameter is accurate, I will see a ground speed reduction of 7%. Potential tire on the ground of course goes from about 12" to over 18".

Front tires, wheels and tubes about $400.
Rear wheels and centers about $400.
Titan 18.4 x 16.1 tires $1395.

Expensive on the face of it, yes. However, I plan to have the tractor for life. I'm 52 so let's use 20 years as the potential divisor ( I hope!). $2195/20 is $109.75 per year. So, for $109.75 per year, I can have the tire and wheel setup I want. I'm only mowing with this tractor and it looks like it will see 5-7 hours of use per week when the grass is growing. I'm in Indiana so that's probably late March through October. I doubt 20 years will wear out the backs, maybe not the fronts either.
 
(quoted from post at 08:22:01 10/02/15) ....And I'm all in now on the tire project. The 15 X 8 6 bolt implement wheels from ME Miller in Ohio and the American Farmer USA made 11L15 implement tires w/tubes also from ME Miller fit perfectly. I mowed with these installed for a couple hours yesterday. I immediately see a difference in the grass. Steering is a little more difficult but there's twice as much rubber on the ground now. The ride was much improved.

I have ordered 16 x 16.1 blank rims from Hey Wheel in Kansas. They will also supply loose centers cut to fit the inside diameter of the blank rims and drilled for the 8 bolt 6" circle Ford pattern. This will allow me to set the tire clearance and wheel backspacing where I want it, then they can be welded in.

I just placed my order for a pair of Titan Torc-Trac 18.1 X 16.1 R3 type tires from Simple Tire in Pennsylvania. My current R-1 tires are about 46.5" diameter so if the published 43.2" diameter is accurate, I will see a ground speed reduction of 7%. Potential tire on the ground of course goes from about 12" to over 18".

Front tires, wheels and tubes about $400.
Rear wheels and centers about $400.
Titan 18.4 x 16.1 tires $1395.

Expensive on the face of it, yes. However, I plan to have the tractor for life. I'm 52 so let's use 20 years as the potential divisor ( I hope!). $2195/20 is $109.75 per year. So, for $109.75 per year, I can have the tire and wheel setup I want. I'm only mowing with this tractor and it looks like it will see 5-7 hours of use per week when the grass is growing. I'm in Indiana so that's probably late March through October. I doubt 20 years will wear out the backs, maybe not the fronts either.

Thanks for posting. can't wait to see the finished pics.
Thanks also for the rough $ estimate.
I have a few tire/rim projects here to 'make this fit that', so info is always helpful.
A couple involve Green tractors, so I have to be quiet about them because of the howls of protest I'd get from the green board.
But, they are my tractors....I'm doin it. LOL
course, I do admit...sometimes I go too far.....
allisB_zpsdpdkx9ut.jpg
 

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