Ford 3000 Questions

Family has an old Ford 3000 diesel tractor, 8 speed, live PTO. It belonged to my grandparents, but was used and abused by every member iof
the family at some point or another - mostly bush hogging, pulling whatever and a touch of plowing now and then. It has set out in the weather
for probably 20 years. Tractor is one of the first years of blue 3000's. The tractor was in good working order back in the day and a fine piece of
equipment. The tractor has been offered to me for free and I'm inclined to take it and do whatever is necessary to make it a field ready square
bale haying tractor with some new paint and decals. It is now either a basket case or a gold nugget with a few fixes - I'm thinking worse case.
When I get done (if I actually take the tractor) needs to be a reliable, productive machine.

Here's the good:

Looks complete, 1350ish hrs on the meter, rubber appears to be in good shape, has a hydraulic remote.

The bad:

Smoke out the breather - plenty of it, I'm told something is wrong with the hydraulic lift or it doesn't work, clutch no longer disengages the PTO,
very difficult to start.

Aside from sending the tractor to the scrap yard, any obvious things to check/adjust?

I'm thinking a complete engine rebuild, new clutch and radiator is probably ahead. Not sure what's going on with the hydraulics.

It's a family tractor, in addition to being a field ready tractor, I'd like to get it into such shape that it will serve my boys one of these days after I
hang it up.

Any sage advice, potential rebuild cost estimates, etc are much appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill

Try the easy stuff first. run a commercial injector cleaner through to clean up the injectors,, might help it start faster and run a cleaner exhaust. I usually get some improvement out of all tractors fairly quickly. I swear by the BG products buy only availible at repair centers.

change oil and run a hd diesel rated 15w-40 oil. This will slowly help clean up the rings and lower blowby. this will take some time to show improvement if any. Clean fuel and air filters as well, probably an oil bath air filter but clean it and check for obstructons such as mud dubber nest etc.

Clean all battery cable connections especially at the starter. also clean the cables that go down into the starter. This will help it spin faster and that is needed for quick starts. Put a new high capacity battery on it as well. fix or repair the charging system so the battery stays charged.

Hydraulics, could be a stuck unload valve.... driving it with the position arm in different places will help. I have had some luck doing this with some tractors and have had to pull to cover to unstick the unload valve on others.

Your mileage may vary.

They're great old tractors.
It probably won't be cheap to go through it but you would have a good tractor to leave someone.
I really doubt if those are original hours. Those hour meters failed early and often.
If you got it started and the clock still worked then every thing Bill said would apply. But my money says it's smoking and hard to start because of high hours.
Off the top of my head, $2000 for an engine overhaul - bore, sleeves, pistons, valves, crank? bearings, gaskets.
Double clutch = $400.
Incidentals = $1000?
Plus your time.
Hydraulic problem might be as simple as it lost prime.
Rebuild kit for the pump is about $80 I think.
Unloader valve under the top cover may be just a cleaning.
The tractor is close to 50 years old but would go for another 50 then.
You know enough to judge the tires, tin, etc.
You could buy a decent one for that price and save yourself some work.
It wouldn't be a rebuilt unit tho and wouldn't be a family tractor.
It is a little light for square baling but would do it.
All round handy size.
Parted out:
LPTO tranny with clutch and flywheel = $800
Wheels, tires?
Radiator $50-$75
Tin,fenders?
Injector pump $150
If it has power steering it's worth $800 pretty easy.
The rest of the parts are hard to give away.
Nothing on them is hard to fix and nothing hard to find if you need it.
Don't forget the old Confucious saying: "Beware of friends bearing free tractors."
I was given a free tractor when my dad passed away.
15 years, $30 grand and a bad habit later I'm still wondering if it was a wise choice to take it

The remote valve should be worth at least $200. You will like the usefulness of that tractor if you decide it is worth fixing.

Garry

I disagree with UD on square baling size/usefulness. My 3cyl 2000 is my go-to square baling tractor. Easy on, easy off, easy to maneuver and just an all-around better tractor for squares than my JD 2550. I pull a New Holland 68 baler with it so not that heavy of a baler. Of course, I have the 8 speed and power steering.

John

your post really answers your question.......
family tractor that all in the family have been on at one time or the other......you would like it for that reason and to actually use it now...you have kids you want to pass it on to...
no choice here really......fix it

study, take your time, and depending on your skills...do much of the grunt work yourself.
Enlist the pros for things over your head and machine shop type stuff as needed.....but only then.....don't pay them $100 an hour to remove bolts and stuff to get [i:dc9f5115dc]to[/i:dc9f5115dc] the part that does need an expert to repair....
I've posted many times that pros aren't gods or aliens...if they can do it, so can you.

(ps....an old tractor that actually starts and moves?!? piece-a-cake.......fix er up. )
good luck

Thanks everyone for the advice and encouragement!!!!!

Bill