Ford 4000 sheet metal quandry

cyeargin

New User
As I have posted in previous threads I have a 1966 Ford 4000 that I am in the process of sprucing up. One of the problems I have ran into is the original nose cone at some point was damaged to where the compound curves where the lower grill sits have been bent, and the entire unit has been warped slightly to the right. As such, the hood doesn't sit plumb, and the lower grill doesn't fit into the lower half of the nose cone. With this being a 1966 unit, it has the nose cone with the two-piece metal grill, and also has the hood with the louvers down the side. I have not had a lot of luck finding a good replacement nose cone; I did find one fairly good one at T&H Salvage in Pavo, GA (at 2 hours away the closest salvage yard to me), but it will still need some work, and they are asking $200 for it. The fear I have is I will pay this, get it home, and find it too has a warp or some other problem I can't see until I mount it on the tractor. Here is Option B that I wanted to run by the group: for $67 more I can get a new later 4000 nose cone (post 4/68), the type that uses the two-piece plastic grills, that is new and already primed, etc. of course I would have to get a new hood as well to match, but this would be another $130 or so,and again these would be new and already primed. Has anybody else just thrown their hands up and went with the later, more plentiful parts, and how big of a "sin" is it to do so? I like the look of the original 1966 grill and hood, but I don't really have the talent or money to have a lot of body work done, and I hate to throw money at salvage parts that might not work after I get them home. Advice, encouragement, etc. is greatly appreciated.

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
 
A couple of thoughts:
First of all are trying to fit a new, aftermarket grill into this?
I have found the new ones to be ill fitting darned things. I put one in recently and had to do some cutting and bending on it.
Secondly, if you could find the nose off a 2000 or 3000 those can be made to fit fairly easily.
Cut the valance off and weld on tabs where it bolts onto the bolster. The rest of it will be the same. I did that once and it worked/fit good.
One thing you want to keep in mind as you search for a used nose is the gas and diesel ones are different. The outer shell is the same but attachments and brackets for the air filter are quite different. And the air cleaner tubes are on different sides So a 2 3/4" hole may have to be cut with a hole saw.
I have cut off air cleaner brackets and mig welded them into another nose a couple of times with good results but if you don't have those skills and equipment it can cost you.
As for originality,I doubt anyone would fault you for going to aftermarket parts.
I also prefer the old style tin but also think the new style tin looks more modern.
So do as you must to have a decent looking tractor.
Lastly, the new tin that is out there is mostly for diesel tractors so if you have a gasser don't get caught having to modify it for the air tube.
 
Thanks for the reply, UD; my tractor is in fact a diesel, and I have attached photos to show the alignment and damage issues I'm dealing with. Besides the bent lips where the grill attaches, note the wrinkle in the left side, the displaced centerline, and the fact the whole nose cone is warped to the left as you look from the front. you can also see the gap between the nose and the left hood front edge, and while the right hood doesn't have the gap, the side trim doesn't line up. I am not a welder, so any welding would have to be outsourced. I can do my own body work to the extent of stripping, priming, and repainting, but I'm afraid these dents and dings are above my head. I will send a picture of the potential replacement piece in a follow-up email.

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
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.....and here is the best of the 1965-4/68 Ford 1000 series nose cones the wife and I found at T&H Salvage this past week. they are asking $200 firm for this, and like I said I can buy a new 1968+ nose for $267 plus whatever shipping will be. I'm just wondering if the $67 difference is worth the work that I will have to do to clean up the salvaged part when I can paint the new one and go about my business. Losing that 1966 look and keeping the parts authentic to the model year is what is holding me back.

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
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BTW, it is kind of hard to see, but the salvage part has a bulge in the top and some wrinkles that will have to be dealt with; all the mounting tabs except one for the upper grill are present and in good shape. T&H has a HUGE inventory, but 1966-68 stuff in good shape was pretty sparse...lots of 1968+ stuff though...the story of my life, LOL.

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
 
The places your hood are bashed are very difficult to pound out. And warped or bent askance tin is very hard to wrestle back into alignment. Plus, looking at the front edge of your hood, that is bent up as well.
I guess I would spring for the new nose and hoods.
If you buy the hoods used make sure they come as a pair as hinge locations can be different but a connected pair from any post 4/68 through 75 2/3/4000 Diesel will work. I have not seen or held the new side hoods.
My pal Kenny has bought 2 of those aftermarket noses and they fit good and are made of heavy metal. I can recommend them. You'll have a nice looking tractor then for a lot less than hiring a body man and/or welder.
I think the new noses use a one piece grill like the 3600/4600 used.
Not the 2 piece like is on the 68-75 models. Or at least I have not seen those.
 
Ultradog, you mentioned that the oil-bath air cleaner mounts are different between gas and diesel models; how so? Reason I ask is I did an internet search and found one for a 1967 4000 for a reasonable price, but it's for a gas burner....looks to have the air cleaner hole in the top of the hood in the same place as my diesel, but you say the mounting brackets are different?

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
 
I'm on a regular computer now instead of my phone. Can access my photobucket pictures.
I have posted these here before but they are helpful.
These are all 3000 photos but other than having a valance they are the same as a 4000.
And as I mentioned before if you can do a little welding it is easy to cut the valance off and make it fit a 4000.
This photo is of what I call the bridge which is in the nose.
I took the bridge out of a junk diesel nose and welded into a gas nose which was nearly perfect.
The upper one is from a diesel, lower from a gas. Note the holes for the air tube are on opposite sides and the diesel bridge has an extra bracket on it for the oil bath air cleaner.

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This photo shows the second bracket for the oil bath air cleaner. I drilled out the spot welds and then welded it into the nice nose.


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This photo shows the nice gas nose after I drilled out the spot welds to replace the bridge.


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And the nose without the bridge.


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Here is the finished product. A gas nose converted to diesel, ready to put on my own 3000.
It was very easy to drill out the spot welds and remove the bridge and bracket. Then you could have a shop weld the parts into a good nose for not too much money - if you found a real nice gas nose.


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This photo is of a 3000 gasser that I put together out of parts and then sold.
Note the round paper type air cleaner just in front of the rear cowel and the air tube going forward to the nose if it was on.

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Remember too that the left side hood on a gasser has a big hole in it to access the air filter.
The diesel hood does not have this hole.
This is another 3000 that I had but sold.
I do still have a fairly nice 3000 diesel nose that I would sell.
It is the early style.
My email is open if you wanted to talk about it.

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Ohhhhh ok, between your pics and the parts diagram at the NH parts store I see what you're talking about now. I was wondering how that worked with the filter coming out of the side of the hood and the breather pipe coming up out of the nose. Since last post I have also found the nose from a '67 5000 diesel that looks like it will work fine...I appreciate all of your input, and I'll keep you advised on how things go.

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
 
Ultradog, I believe I have a found a good 1965-1968 replacement nose, but it is for a 5000; correct me if I'm wrong before I commit to purchase: the 5000 nose should work on a 4000, but not the 5000 hood because the 5000 hood is longer due to the additional cylinder...correct?

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:28 09/01/15) Ultradog, I believe I have a found a good 1965-1968 replacement nose, but it is for a 5000; correct me if I'm wrong before I commit to purchase: the 5000 nose should work on a 4000, but not the 5000 hood because the 5000 hood is longer due to the additional cylinder...correct?

Chuck Yeargin
Patterson, GA

Correct, The part number is identical for the nosecone between the 4000 &amp; 5000, but the hood part numbers are different, and the 5000 hood is longer.
 

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