Replacement Sheetmetal

Hello all,
I've been lurking here for a long time. I'm afraid the only thing I'll have to contribute to this forum for quite awhile are questions. I seem to have plenty of those.
I'm in the early stages of restoring my Jubilee. I actually have two. I just bought a parts donor with a 5" hole in the block. I've been doing alot of reading and research. I've got a few questions.
I see this site is carrying a replacement hood and one other big "official Ford licensed part manufacture" sells the complete hood assembly. Seems pretty expensive and I'm not at all sure I'd pay that price but I'm curious about the quality. I read somewhere the replacements weren't as thick as the originals..Anyone tired these and if so what's your thoughts. I've done alot of searching for reviews or feedback and haven't found anything. I've got three partial sets of sheetmetal so I can piece together at least one pretty nice set. But I'm curious about the replacements and I'm differently going to need a pair of the sides (dog legs).

I've also read that replacement fenders are smaller than the originals. As in not exactly the same height. Anyone run across that. Can you suggest where to buy high quality replacements. I'm only interested in the raised script version. There seems to be a wide range in prices but I'd think most are made by the same manufacture.

Next question, I've got my steering gear box disassembled to rebuild it. Got it all cleaned up and waiting on replacement bearings then I realized I can't find the little washer/screw that holds the lower bearing on the shaft. I'm not sure it was there when I took it apart or maybe ended up in the bottom of my parts washing bucket. Either way I need a replacement and can't find one anywhere. Anyone have one they'd be willing to part with? or point me in the right direction to buy one?
Thank you in advance. JH
 

I have been very happy with the quality of everything that I have purchased from Dennis Carpenter. Thinner metal is one of those cheap shot criticisms that you will always hear, but if you think about it it makes no sense to use anything thinner than original. The flat steel sheet is the cheapest part of the finished product. The molds are probably ten K for each piece. Labor, insurance, paint EPA costs. It will probably take thousands of sales before they can start making any money on them. We owners are fortunate to have them willing to lay the money out for something so risky
 
The eyelet and bearing retainer on the bottom of the steering shaft is only there to hold the bearing on while you put the shaft in. Once the shaft is installed they serve no purpose because the shaft and bearing race hold the bearing in the proper position.
Gobbing some grease on the bearing and shaft to hold it in place serves the same purpose.

But if you are dead set on using the correct parts you can et them most any place that sells Ford tractor parts.
New Holland dealer;
Walt's Tractor;
nnalert;
This web site YT parts;
ECT.................

Just search part numbers 356937S and 8N33581
 
On the sheetmetal, it really depends how far you intend to go with restoring the machine. If it's a show tractor going to be 100% correct in every detail, then I would look to use a nice original set of tin. However, even good shape parts are 60 years old and will need some body work to make perfect (think labor $$$). If you get to thinking about those body shop labor dollars (assuming you aren't doing the body work yourself), then the Carpenter repops start looking more attractive.

I had a chance to look over the Carpenter parts at Carlisle back in June, and I can say that they are pretty nice. Seemed to fit up ok, and good attention to detail. I'm going to say maybe even nice enough for show tractors, but a true eagle-eye purist might be able to identify them as reproduction versus original. I mean it would take someone that's restored a bunch of them to tell, and even at that the differences are extremely minor. But still very very nice parts. I don't think the gauge of the metal was far off enough from the originals to make a difference. I wouldn't hesitate to use them. It just comes down to time versus money.

You mentioned needing dog legs. I can say that if you do use your original metal with the gray primered reproduction dog legs that you find on eBay, then be prepared for a fight, even if you are a skilled body man. I had to replace one dog leg and bought one of the gray primer ones (about 100 bucks). They are very heavy gauge metal, but don't fit worth a darn. LOTS of massaging, cutting, and welding to get them to fit up right. Skilled body man would not be happy with them. Now, there is a black primer repop that I think might be Carpenter parts, but cost more. If it were me, I'd look into those. I haven't physically put the black primer part in my hands, but I'd doubt that they could be any worse than the gray primer ones.

Concerning the fenders, your Jubilee (assuming it is a true '53 model year Jubilee or '54 NAA), will use later 8N fenders with script. Those are available, look for the "officially licensed by Ford" product. From what I have seen, they are heavier and have better detail than standard aftermarket repop fenders. On another note, I have a super, super nice pair of original late 8N/Jubilee fenders I would sell. I'm in Virginia, not exactly in your neck of the woods, but could ship them. Shipping might get ugly, though. If you're interested, let me know and we can talk further.

Hope that helps,
Kevin
 
Thank you all for the replies.

Showcrop
For some reason I thought we couldn’t mention a competitor on Yesterdays forum but yes Dennis Carpenter’s replacement sheetmetal is what I was referring to. I’ve ordered hundreds of dollars of parts from them and always been happy so far. But before I spent 1300 I wanted some feedback.

John in La
Thank you for taking the time to reply and look up those part numbers. I'm away from home without my parts catalog so that’s very helpful. I suspect a previous owner may have done like you suggested and used a bunch of grease to hold the bearing in place while they reassembled the gear box. But I can’t tell if it’s ever been opened up before.

Lenexa Speedway
That is exactly the type of information I am looking for. Like I said I have 3 partial sets of hood sheetmetal so I maybe able to piece together one set I’d be happy with. Your info on the doglegs is very helpful. I’m no real body man and would be very upset to have to put that much work into making something I just bought fit.

I have two real 53 Jubilee’s. One I’ve had for 22 years and haven’t done a whole lot to it but what’s required to keep it running. Several old “farmer” type of repairs I’m fixing and lots of worn bolts and bushings and such. Hydraulics are a little slow so I’m going to address that too. I’ve ordered lots of replacement parts to try and make it look like it should. I’m sort of leaning toward making my original Jube look pretty good with a pretty nice paint job on the sheetmetal and fenders then putting it back into service. Then as time and money allows I’m thinking to start trying to put my parts tractor back together as nice and close to original as I can. It’s got a gaping hole in the side of the block so a rebuilt engine will be the first thing. That tractor appears to be really low time. Very clean under the shifter and steering box cover with very little wear on the clutch and break pedals. This tractor is why I’m asking about replacement sheetmetal.
I would like to talk to you about those fenders. And I’m in the market for another engine or block depending on what I can find. Shipping is always the issue.

I restored a 1995 Ford F150 Lightning a few years ago and bought a 94 XL for a parts donor. Having two of everything made it a much easier process. I ended up just driving the 94 because it was too nice of a truck to cannibalize. I might end up doing much the same with two Jubilee’s.

Again thank you for the replies. I’m sure you all will get tired of my questions. I really do try to use the search before asking.
 

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