5610 running hot

woodbutcher

Well-known Member
Mid-day temps here lately hit 105 degrees, and my 5610 sends the red needle on its temp gauge to the safe edge of the red zone, but I have to look close to see that the needle is covering the last little bit of the white on the gauge. I'm shredding pasture, and there was a lot of growth from all the rain last spring. It's been a couple of years since I replaced the thermostat, so I did that yesterday. I ran it a few hours this morning, and it stayed a little to the right of midpoint, with a lot of white showing. But I left both sides of the hood on the shop floor, and that may help cool the engine somewhat. This tractor has an undermount muffler, probably original to the tractor. I'm wondering if it might have accumulated enough rust chips over the years to restrict exhaust gases enough to make the tractor run hotter than it normally would. That's one reason I want to install a verical exhaust. Hey, Fordfarmer, my email is open if you want to discuss a manifold.
Butch
 
I doubt the muffler has anything to do with it.

Start the engine, and rev it up. Put your hand in front of the radiator and feel for any dead spots, especially behind the air cleaner. I'm guessing your radiator is plugged, either externally and/or internally.
 
(quoted from post at 10:47:21 08/12/15) I'm shredding pasture, and there was a lot of growth from all the rain last spring.

Have you been checking the radiator on a regular basis as you mow to make sure it isn't getting clogged up from chaff?
 
Yes, that is my standard procedure. I usually blow it out with compressed air and a long blowgun. It doesn't change the gauge reading though.
 
I took the radiator off two summers ago and took it to a shop to be rodded out. The guy that owned the shop ran the hose nozzle through the neck to force water out the bottom outlet and there was no restriction. I had already pressure washed the fins clean as a whistle. I'm puzzled as to why it seems to run towards the hot side.
 
One possible consideration, possibly acquiring a fan that moves more air through the radiator? 5610 parts catalog lists 14 different fans for 5610's! Some, I'm sure, are for special applications. Perhaps one with same diameter and same center hole size, but more blades?
HTH, Dave
 
I don't believe the type of exhaust system will have any real effect on the overheating... provided it's all factory. What I would do is make sure that there are no exhaust leaks in the area of the rad. That will have a HUGE effect on cooling. Beyond that I think you'd best start with the basics. Make sure the fan belt is tight. Make sure the core is clear of dust/debris. If it's still running hot I'd run a can of commercial rad flush through the system as directed on the label of whatever product you use. That WILL remove a LOT of grime/sludge from the system. If that still doesn't do it and you have confirmed that the gauge is fairly accurate by using a IR heat gun on the head/block intersection behind the injection pump... then I might look at changing the fan. As far as I know, there is no reason you couldn't install the heavy 7 blade fan on that engine... but bear in mind that it will move air at a cost... in power and fuel... but if it will cool a 7710 it will cool a 5610. As someone else also mentioned... the shroud will also make HUGE and I MEAN HUGE difference. A good tight shroud will force the fan to draw air through the rad rather than a broken shroud that will allow it to draw from anywhere. Air will take the path of least resistance... I think you should be able to get it cooling properly without having to change the fan. I also would not be worried about running it up to the red line as long as it's not going deep into the red. Those engines run best at or near 210 anyway and 220 won't hurt them a bit. 230 is where the gauge pegs hard to the right...

Rod
 
Thanks, Rod. You might be onto something, there. While I was installing the new thermostat, I noticed a blackened spot where the exhaust pipe clamps onto the manifold outlet. I haven't done anything to it because I was planning to change over to a vertical exhaust. That leak might be the problem. This engine has always been pretty efficient, probably partly because it does run that warm. I used it several hours yesterday to test the new stat. The gauge went a little past halfway and left plenty of white showing between the needle and the red zone. Hardly a fair test, though. A cold front came through two nights ago. The high yesterday was only 98 degrees. Also, I left the hood in the shop. It seems the old girl likes running around topless.
Butch
 

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