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input on hydraulic repair?

gears

gears

Member
Anyone have any experience repairing the stupid external hydraulic lines for a 3000? I believe there are other models with similar lines - so I'm sure someone out there has had pitted rusty ones.

Mine has 3 pinholes on the suction line, the largest is like it's been stabbed with a ballpoint pen, however the rest of the tube where it's against the trans under the floorboard is heavily pitted too. (see my "rotted hyd line" post for pics)

I have a MIG but I'm afraid the heavy pitting will turn into a game of connect the dots.

Brazing was a thought but if that fails it becomes a pain to weld.

JB weld smeared over the tube?

Fiberglass/duraglas/bondo the tube?

Cut it and sleeve it?

Sell the tractor and take up knitting?
 



Buy a used one from a salvage yard or off of ebay.

Take it to a hydraulic shop and have it repaired.
 
I think JB Weld would work just fine if the surfaces are prepped before you put it on. Given how much rust there is on this tube, splicing in a rubber tube is not real practical, whereas spreading a coat of JB over all of the rusted areas would be easy to do.
 
I have part of one that is good.
Has the flange on the pump end like you
need but i cut the rear flange off and
used a rubber line on the suction side and
a compression fitting on the pressure side
to adapt it to fit a 3600 rear end.
I would just give it to you but wont be
back up to my land for a month and I'm
assuming you want it before that.
I would solder or braze what you have
(soldering is not hard to do) or buy a
good used one before i would bother with
JB Weld.
 
I just came in from welding up the holes themselves, I've got to let it cool and then I'll dress it and check for leaks. The remaining pits are what have me concerned. Those are what I'd fill with the JB weld.


BTW, I hope everyone with a broken leg is doing better, they've been in our family's prayers.
mvphoto25905.jpg



mvphoto25906.jpg


mvphoto25907.jpg
 
I think id sand it all up, clean, flux like crazy, and then tin it all over with silver solder... Solder dont rust.. ;)
 
Braze doesn't rust AND I happen to have some in the garage...
mvphoto25917.jpg


mvphoto25918.jpg


Here it's holding laquer thinner with no issues. I might flux it and solder it on top of the welds & brazejust to fill the remaining pits.

Plumbing solder work?
 
The large line will hold OK but the small line needs to be repaired by an expert as it is the pressure line JMO
Boss
 
Pressure line is good, just leaking & sucking air from the suction side.

Good thing to point out though, hate to have high pressure oil up the pantleg!
 
I just keep laying the brass to them until they're tight. Doesn't matter if it's suction or pressure; it works on both. What I would be careful of is that you don't have too much brass droop into the suction line. That could make a mess...
That said... I didn't think the new suction line would be all that dear but I could be wrong..

Rod
 
The two I found on ebay were 150+ after shipping. An afternoon in the barn was free..... As I'm on vacation and building/fixing things is what I enjoy, I feel I came out ahead.
 
That was actually the number I had in my head... We bought one for a 30 series tractor 20 years ago and it was 120 or so then.. This will last you a while tho... hopefully.

Rod
 

I have the new style lines, and had to replace the pressure side this year. Pretty close to $100 for the part and it was just a tube... Tried to fix the old one but the pressure fitting kept blowing loose. The flange way is a much better design, in my opinion...too bad parts are NLA from CHN.

John
 
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